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Rear hub bearing replacement

86K views 288 replies 51 participants last post by  OrangeBeast1050 
#1 ·
Well, I thinks I got a bearing going out on ol' yeller. :slap: :buttkick: Haven't torn into her yet, but I think it sounds like one, and even got a couple of mechanics to take a listen and that's what they think too. For one, has anyone else had a wheel bearing or hub bearing go bad yet?!? Ol' yeller only has around 15k miles on her, and I'm kinda pissed if I've got a bearing gone bad already. Especially seeing as how I take extremely well care of my scoot.

Also, does anyone know where I might could find some aftermarket bearings that would work? I'm think'n if I do go in, I might as well replace all 3 bearings in the rear, but damn those sums-a-bitches would be $135 total!!!
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/triumph-motorcycle-speed-triple-serial-number-210445-and-higher-rear-wheel-final-drive/o/m6902sch512887

:smitty:
 
#3 ·
Re: Damn it!

trippeee said:
What are the symptoms? ???
got a slight click'n noise from the back end when taking off on the bike. It's hard to hear while riding it, noticed it a couple of weeks ago when me and some friends rode, and they would hear it when I pulled off. Thought it might be the chain, but I keep it cleaned and lubed, and it still seems to be in pretty good shape. I guess there's no way to be for sure without tear'n into her, but me and 2 others seem to think it definitely sounds like a bearing. Sad thing is, I was planning on riding Shady Valley this coming Friday to show up the NCSportbike guys, guess that's out now. :horse: :violent1:
 
#4 ·
Re: Damn it!

Pull out the bearings and/or races and get the numbers off them. Bearing numbers are usually universal. Then go down to your local Industrial Supply house and tell them you want a # XXXX bearing. Should save you a ton of money.
 
#6 ·
Re: Damn it!

Wheel bearing are just plain ole bearings.
Crash is right, but make sure you get the markings right at the end, I have a bunch of spec stuff on my computer at home, I'll post when I get off work.
You can usually pick it up at small engine/lawnmore/chainsaw place pretty cheap too.
PU is pretty good about listing them by the industry standard http://street.parts-unlimited.com/7/73/5965504?q=bearing
and you can pick them up at any MC shop too. The RS, if I remember correctly, stands for double sealed self-lubricating (like Bucket). The numbers represent ID, OD and thickness, so if you can't find any markings on them, you can always pull out the calipers and measure them out, too.
Shit, I just looked and found this too http://www.bstparts.com/bearings/62.htm
and this
http://www.hchbearing.com/pdf/online catalogue.pdf
which looks pretty similar.
My old roomates 2-sided swingarm Sprint RS used 6204-RS, I think, which were the same as the front wheel bearings on late model CBR's, if I remember correctly. Not that necessarily has anything to do with this, but I haven't had to change mine yet, but just shows bearings are bearings, but don't count on the local monkey behind maning the parts counter being able to figure anything without an OEM part number.
 
#7 ·
Re: Damn it!

Not NotRazorback said:
... just shows bearings are bearings, but don't count on the local monkey behind maning the parts counter being able to figure anything without an OEM part number.
Note that the OEM part number should be a standard bearing part number as I mentioned. You can buy Fafner, Timken, SKF or whatever brand and they all should have the same numbers. Makes it nice to not have to cross over the numbers. Like Razor said though, if you even mention that it's for a motorcycle they'll look at you like you were some weird alien creature with green hair.
 
#9 ·
Re: Damn it!

+1 Allballs. I've used their bearings before without fail and their battery cables. Top notch stuff.
 
#10 ·
Re: Damn it!

Hey, Cheap, once you have them off and figure out which ones they are, can you post the number?
I want to pick up a set of them... better check to make sure their the same, first...


Edit--> Bike Bandit calls out the left and right as being:
5577226-001 45X55X20
5577224-001 40X62X24

Which were the same on all the single sided swingarms, according to BB.
 
#11 ·
Re: Damn it!

The suffix "2RS" does stand seals on both sides of the bearing. For bearings that aren't tapered roller you can take the last two digits of the part number and multiply them by 5. This will tell you the shaft size the bearing will fit on it millimeters. Example, #6022 would indicate a bearing that fits on a 110mm shaft. Of course this doesn't tell you anything about what size the housing bore is.

A couple of things to keep in mind:

1. The suffixes aren't always the same from manufacturer to manufacturer so make note of them and who made the bearing. There is important information contained in the numbers. Things like internal clearances that will be very important to the bearing life.

2. Measure both the bore of the new bearing and the shaft it is going onto. Use a micrometer if possible. If the shaft is larger than the bearing bore (which is probable) then you'll want to heat the bearing up before putting on the shaft. I'm talking about .001" or so not a huge difference. Don't just "drive" it on. If you heat the bearing up to 100°F or so above ambient it should slip on easily. The rubber seals in the bearing should be okay as long as you don't go much over 200°F. IF you have to tap on the bearing to install it use some sort of collar to tap on the inner race when installing on the shaft or the outer race if installing into a housing.

3. Try to stick with name brands. SKF, *** (yes that is a real company), NTN or Timken. I think the Timken bearings that aren't tapered roller are actually made by Torrington. Timken bought Torrington a couple of years ago. There is another company called NSK that makes bearings. I don't know much about them tho. I would stay away from the "no-name" brands unless Triumph okays them. Seriously, some of the "non-name" bearings I've seen that come out of China or Romania are complete crap.

Having said all that, I've never changed a bearing on a motorcycle. I design gear reducers for a living and we deal with roller bearings all the time. Improper assembly and handling techniques can drastically shorten a bearing's lifespan. Oh, by the way, bearing manufacturers really try to discourage the very common and fun act of spinning a bearing with an air hose. Yes it is fun but it can damage the bearing.
 
#239 ·
The suffix "2RS" does stand seals on both sides of the bearing. For bearings that aren't tapered roller you can take the last two digits of the part number and multiply them by 5. This will tell you the shaft size the bearing will fit on it millimeters. Example, #6022 would indicate a bearing that fits on a 110mm shaft. Of course this doesn't tell you anything about what size the housing bore is.

A couple of things to keep in mind:

1. The suffixes aren't always the same from manufacturer to manufacturer so make note of them and who made the bearing. There is important information contained in the numbers. Things like internal clearances that will be very important to the bearing life.

2. Measure both the bore of the new bearing and the shaft it is going onto. Use a micrometer if possible. If the shaft is larger than the bearing bore (which is probable) then you'll want to heat the bearing up before putting on the shaft. I'm talking about .001" or so not a huge difference. Don't just "drive" it on. If you heat the bearing up to 100°F or so above ambient it should slip on easily. The rubber seals in the bearing should be okay as long as you don't go much over 200°F. IF you have to tap on the bearing to install it use some sort of collar to tap on the inner race when installing on the shaft or the outer race if installing into a housing.

3. Try to stick with name brands. SKF, *** (yes that is a real company), NTN or Timken. I think the Timken bearings that aren't tapered roller are actually made by Torrington. Timken bought Torrington a couple of years ago. There is another company called NSK that makes bearings. I don't know much about them tho. I would stay away from the "no-name" brands unless Triumph okays them. Seriously, some of the "non-name" bearings I've seen that come out of China or Romania are complete crap.

Having said all that, I've never changed a bearing on a motorcycle. I design gear reducers for a living and we deal with roller bearings all the time. Improper assembly and handling techniques can drastically shorten a bearing's lifespan. Oh, by the way, bearing manufacturers really try to discourage the very common and fun act of spinning a bearing with an air hose. Yes it is fun but it can damage the bearing.
Nice someone who knows bearings, I work for consolidated bearings and selling these things pays for my speedie
 
#13 ·
Re: Damn it!

I had the same problem. Try rocking it with the rear brake applied, and if it makes the sound... like the one in the video (which is really exascerbated by the mic on my camera and having a friend to push the bike) i bet you its the same thing as on my bike.

The fucking anchor for the brake caliper slides over the SSA assembly, and is only kept from rotating by a single pin jobber with an internal allen. The pin in question screws into a slot in the brake anchor and keeps it from spinning when you are braking.

I'll bet you dollars to doughnuts that you have worn a flat spot in that pin and that is where the noise is coming from.

I heard a similar sound, and thought it was bearings too...............


:eboy:
 
#14 ·
Re: Damn it!

well, I found the problem(I hope :violent1: ), I believe it's the needle roller bearing. I snapped a couple of pics of the wear...





If you look close, you can see where the shaft actually rubbed on the bearing some. That's the only spot I found, and it's hard to believe that was making the noise, but I reckon it was. :horse:

At any rate, pulling the hub apart and all was a cinch, I can't believe I wasn't going to do it, and I can't believe the jackass that I carried it to thought it was too hard to tackle! :wtf: :violent1: I also got some bearing #'s for you fools, will let ya know tomorrow how it pans out finding some locally.

A few more pics... :eboy: :wrench:



















:drink:
 
#19 ·
Re: Damn it!

well, I sure didn't save much $ going this route, but the sealed bearings were in stock(paid $31.40 a piece), I just have to re-use the retaining ring in the center. :eboy: The needle bearing isn't in stock at my local store but they say it will be here in 3 days. ;D It costs me ~ $30 and like $2 a piece for each seal.

Sealed bearing # - KOYO 6908RS

you'll need 2 of those...





I'm just gonna remove the seal from 1 side of each bearing, and re-use that white plastic retaining ring.

Needle bearing # - INA NK 45/20 SLOVAKIA 95 US

good luck finding 1 in stock :horse: :violent1:





then you'll need the seals for both sides of that bearing,

Seal # - NAK KC 45 55 4



hope this info is helpful to someone in the future. :drink:

I'll re-name this thread and clean it up a little. :drink:
 
#20 ·
#22 ·
most interesting and the most valuable pic is missing? is the AXL ok?
 
#23 ·
Not NotRazorback said:
Cheap, for someone who is supposed to be cheap, you sure don't do things cheaply
http://street.parts-unlimited.com/7/73/5965504?q=6908
http://www.powersportrider.com/cgi-bin/zcatjpg page 196, part#41-6908
or http://www.mcstuff.com/dcm/ms/2008catlores/28_Suspension_LR.pdf
part#895-1021
I'll have to do some looking on those needle bearings.
:horse: :violent1: that could've saved me like $40! :buttkick: :loser:

Well, thanks razor, atleast others will have it for future reference. :slap: You all should send me some $ to make up the difference for being the guinea pig. :slap: ;D

Jake, the axle looks to be fine, I caught it pretty early. :drink: I'll snap a few pics of it tomorrow.
 
#26 ·
Well, thanks razor, at least others will have it for future reference.
No sweat. Next time, I would start there for 'generic' type parts. They give you an idea of the going rate, so to speak. I used to work for the parent/sister company of MCStuff, so looking through catalogs is second nature to me. If you can't find something like that where you think it should be, shoot me an PM next time. Sometimes the catalog guys put stuff in places that is counterintuitive to the people who actually use them.
Also, even though I rarely buy anything on line and I usually can get most parts cheaper than list, but when I'm stuck needing something I'll usually find it cheapest from one of the distributors, take it to the local brick and mortar, and tell them 'get me this'. Most (excluding guys on this website ;D) behind the counter guys don't know how to look something up if you give them descriptions. When swamped my front to dual line at the MC in December, I didn't order enough banjo bolts. I went to the the Kawi, Honda and both indy shops and told them "I need a 10mm banjo bolt". Only the Honda dealer had it (after I walked them through it on their computer and pointed 'that thing'). One of the independents kids told me 'we only sell those as complete kits'. Numb nuts.
As a side note to my way longer than I expected response, I was thinking of putting together a spreadsheet with part numbers from the major distributors with descriptions for everything Speed Triple. I was going to keep it specific to our bikes (sprockets, as an example) rather than generic (bar end mirrors or oil). Whatcha guys think?
 
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