Voltage regulator question

[dr_gallup]

I was reading this thread over on triumph675.net about the Triumph 675 voltage regulators being a POS SCR design just waiting to fail and take out the stator with it.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35227

Am I correct in assuming the S3 voltage regulator is the same cheesy junk & I can do the same late model Honda MOSFET swap? This sounds like a good winter mod too me.

[hoostine]

yes.

mine came from an 09 zx-10r. it's not on yet though.

from what i've seen, the scr type was used on pretty much everything before 07 or so. this is total conjecture based on ebay browsing and forum reports and such.

[POWER-TRIPP]

Most Japanese bike manufacturers have switched from the mechanical SCR designs, to the much more efficient (and cooler running) electronic MOSFET units. I don't know what Ducati uses on the later bikes.

Kawasaki switched early in the decade (30 amp, later 50 amp), Yamaha and Honda a couple of years later. [FH008/FH0010/FH0012]

The Shindengen FH0012 designs with two plugs are easiest to adapt, but all versions come in different output ranging from 35 amps to 50 amps.
http://www.shindengen.com/resources/...012%20Data.pdf

Eastern Beaver carries the whole Furukawa plug assemblies in male and female with pins (18-24 ga) and seals for USD $10 each plus shipping - http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...FKWH/fkwh.html

And you will need a good barrel crimper like the Pro's Kit unit.

[beeza71]

I installed the FH012AA regulatr/rectifier from a 2008 yamaha r1 + Eastern Beaver loom onto my 2005 S3 (as a preventative measure). The voltage sits rock solid at 14.1 V idle up where with the stock item it sat at approx 13.2 to 14 V. The Eastern Beaver loom is a work of art and took less than a week to get to Oz.
If you do install on the later model S3's (2005 up), you will first need to remove the tank, LHS rear plastic cowling and disconnect the battery. The rear cowling removal makes getting the lower regulator bolt n' nut off much easier ( it's tucked in front of the rear shock remote reservoir).
The regulator hole spacing old to new, is slightly different so you will need to elongate the lower regulator bolt mounting hole upwards about 5mm (where it attaches to the plastic vertical tray, not the regulator). As it is platic it's a fairly straightforward. I used a dremel and router bit.
Cheers.
PS: there is a good sticky with a shitload of info on ......the other site if you require further instructions.....

[POWER-TRIPP]

I've noticed improved voltage to the lights at all rpm, but especially at idle and low (cruise) engine speeds.
This and the reduced heat was my main objective.

[hoostine]

And you will need a good barrel crimper like the Pro's Kit unit.

barrel crimper != klein crimper previously mentioned and praised at this site. just fyi. (also, != means not equal to. !, pronounced "bang," is a negative modifier in computer speak, which i speak unintentionally)
barrel crimper:


klein crimper:


barrel crimpers are SIZE SPECIFIC(i.e. you have to have a 14ga anvil to crimp 14ga connectors) and make vurri nice crimps. they're also pricey if you've never bought electrical tools before. this is because they're a precision instrument, not a pair of pliers. here is an area where you get what you pay for.

barrel crimp(from eastern beaver site actually):

[POWER-TRIPP]

FWIW, The r/r change to the Shindengen HH0012AA showed a nice 0.5v increase in idle and low rpm voltage that helps with the wiring upgrade on my 2005 S3.

It also improves idle ignition output and makes injector/ECU/fuel pump voltage consistant - smoothing idle and off-idle characteristics.

The heat difference is noticeable as well.

[Dblhelx]

$$$ ??

[limey]

$$$ ??

yes

[Dblhelx]

$$$ ??

yes

Come kiss my pink meanie?