Did my TPS and ISCV
Here's how:
You're gonna need besides the usual tools, tuneboy and an appropriate torx bit with a recess to access the TPS 'security screws'. Might as well go to the hardware store and get 2 normal hex bolts M4x10 and washers, which you can use to replace the 'security torx screws'. You should be able to undo both bolts with a 7mm open end spanner without having to pull out the throttle bodies in the future.
Note: I have discovered that two allen bolts of the same size as the hex bolts might be easier to loosen/tighten with an allen key than a spanner for the bolts. However the allen key would need the short bit shortened down to be able to fit between the bike's frame and the rear TPS allen bolt. This would enable you to loosen the allen bolts to adjust the TPS in future without dismantling anything from the bike.
You need to pull off the tank and airbox. Remove the 3 small manifold pressure sensor rubber hoses and throttle cables.
On the left side of the throttle bodies, the cable from the TPS needs to be disconnected, as will the the plug going into the ISCV on the right side of the manifold.
Loosen the 3 circlips (no need to loosen completely) on the inlet manifold and lift off the throttle body.
Stick 3 pieces of rag in each inlet manifold just in case you manage to drop something in there.
You can now use some carb cleaner or similar solvent to clean up the throttle bodies and the butterflies, especially the edges of the butterflies.
Remove one at a time the 2 torx screws on the TPS and replace with the M4x10 bolts.
Start up Tuneboy (not tune edit) hook up to bike, and go to the sensors page.
Reconnect the TPS and ISCV cables (plugs) and switch on the ignition (you're gonna throw a CEL due tank disconnected, we can always clear it later in tuneboy) and click on the 'Reset ISCV' button on the botton LH of the screen.
Note TPS volts in the sensors page which should be .6v. If it is not then loosen the TPS bolts and turn the TPS till you get .6v
It's a bit fiddly 'cause as soon as you tighten the bolts the voltage seems to go off from .6v.
.58v to .62v should be OK.
Now check the clearance between the ISCV speed control lever and the throttle roller as in pic below
It should be .5mm (about 20 thou for the unmetricated).
![Image]()
If the clearance is out then you need to adjust the ISCV nut till the gap is .5mm
This is the nut:
![Image]()
Once the gap is set then click again on the reset ISCV button in tuneboy and note the new voltage of the TPS. The voltage should now increase by .15v +-.05v. What all this means is that if you previously managed to nail .6v on the TPS anything between .7v and .8v is good. If the voltage is not between those values then screw the ISCV adjuster nut in or out until it is.
Note: Tuneboy scrolls the value of .12v as the increase. The Triumph manual for the 1050 Speed Triple states that this value should be .15v.
I have checked this out with Wayne McDonald (Mr Tuneboy) and his reccomendation is to follow the Triumph manual (.15v) rather than the scrolling figure of .12v in Tuneboy.
Click on the 'reset ISCV button' again and don't touch anything for 15 seconds. When all is done click on the 'reset adapt' button.
We need to reset the adaptions again properly as described further down.
Switch off ignition, remove whatever you stuck in the inlets to prevent bits falling down there, and reassemble everything in reverse order.
Note: Be certain you tighten the throttle body clips properly right up to their stops when you re-assemble, otherwise you might get an air leak in the manifold which would kinda screw up this whole exercise. Also some SILICONE (or rubber) grease on the manifold and airbox 'velocity stack' (trumpet) rubbers helps quite a bit with seating and re-assembly. And future dismantling.
But before you stick on the airbox you could now take this opportunity to balance out the throttle bodies using the Tuneboy screen below:
![Image]()
To balance the throttle bodies, the tank needs to be connected, so a near empty tank makes the job easier.
The tank needs to be laid across the frame so use something soft like towels or rags to protect frame and tank.
I would say an extra pair of hands to hold the tank would be fairly essential.
The airbox needs to be off to get at the balance screws, but the temp sensor on the airbox needs to be connected to the loom so a nearby stool or chair to hold the airbox next to bike would be nice.
The pressure sensor can just hang anywhere safe, no need for it to be screwed on the airbox.
Warm up the engine. If you like spraying decabonising chemicals (eg Mercury PowerTune) down the inlets now is the time to do it.....
Switch off engine.
Before you start balancing, check how many turns each screw needs to be seated fully (just in case you do not manage to balance off so that you can return them to original settings) Then unscrew each one about 1 or turn or so from fully seated and start balancing from there.
Start engine. Tuneboy seems to lag a bit when you start turning the balance screws so wait a sec or 2 before making further adjustements, and occasionally blip throttle.
Also make sure you turn the correct screw, I suggest you have your laptop at the FRONT of the bike screen towards rear and you. I always make the mistake of adjusting no1 throttle body and wonder why I'm getting a change on no3, cause I always have the laptop at the rear with screen facing forward.....
Re revs I like to balance at my idle rpm whatever that is, with the engine warm. Once the throttle is opened balancing becomes irrelevant, as the bleed air past the screws becomes infinitesimal compared to the rest of the air going through the open TB's.
You balance at idle to get a smooth idle. If you like your idle at 2000rpm then ok balance at 2000 rpm.....me I like mine at 1000-1100 rpm so thats where I balance. Remember, always balance with a warmed up engine as balance does vary a bit between warm and cold.
Sometimes you get the balance spot on sometimes they're off a bit. If you can get the numbers within 5 or so you should be ok but do try to get them all similar.
When everything is in place you can use tuneboy to remove the CEL when the ignition was switched on with the fuel tank disconnected.
Might be a good idea to reload with TuneEdit the tune you were using previously.
Now we need to reset the adaptions properly,
1. After downloading new map successfully turn ignition off and then on again. Then turn off ignition after a few seconds.
2. Exit TuneEdit and open Tune Boy
3. Run Reset Adapt (after turning ignition on again). All the values on the screen change but here I don't
know how long to leave this reset running as after a few seconds (30 maybe) nothing more seems to be happening.
4. Start the engine.
5. Let it idle until Cl Thr adapted shows "Yes" as in pic below. It normally takes 10-15 minutes: (Your idle speed must be set at 1300rpm at 75.5 degrees celsius in the appropriate Tuneboy box otherwise Cl Thr will not show yes).
At least with the O2 sensor connected, this is quite important to follow to avoid problems.
![Image]()
6. Turn off ignition
7. Disconnect cable from bike.
8. Go for a ride
The usual disclaimers apply.
'Ave fun.
Here's how:
You're gonna need besides the usual tools, tuneboy and an appropriate torx bit with a recess to access the TPS 'security screws'. Might as well go to the hardware store and get 2 normal hex bolts M4x10 and washers, which you can use to replace the 'security torx screws'. You should be able to undo both bolts with a 7mm open end spanner without having to pull out the throttle bodies in the future.
Note: I have discovered that two allen bolts of the same size as the hex bolts might be easier to loosen/tighten with an allen key than a spanner for the bolts. However the allen key would need the short bit shortened down to be able to fit between the bike's frame and the rear TPS allen bolt. This would enable you to loosen the allen bolts to adjust the TPS in future without dismantling anything from the bike.
You need to pull off the tank and airbox. Remove the 3 small manifold pressure sensor rubber hoses and throttle cables.
On the left side of the throttle bodies, the cable from the TPS needs to be disconnected, as will the the plug going into the ISCV on the right side of the manifold.
Loosen the 3 circlips (no need to loosen completely) on the inlet manifold and lift off the throttle body.
Stick 3 pieces of rag in each inlet manifold just in case you manage to drop something in there.
You can now use some carb cleaner or similar solvent to clean up the throttle bodies and the butterflies, especially the edges of the butterflies.
Remove one at a time the 2 torx screws on the TPS and replace with the M4x10 bolts.
Start up Tuneboy (not tune edit) hook up to bike, and go to the sensors page.
Reconnect the TPS and ISCV cables (plugs) and switch on the ignition (you're gonna throw a CEL due tank disconnected, we can always clear it later in tuneboy) and click on the 'Reset ISCV' button on the botton LH of the screen.
Note TPS volts in the sensors page which should be .6v. If it is not then loosen the TPS bolts and turn the TPS till you get .6v
It's a bit fiddly 'cause as soon as you tighten the bolts the voltage seems to go off from .6v.
.58v to .62v should be OK.
Now check the clearance between the ISCV speed control lever and the throttle roller as in pic below
It should be .5mm (about 20 thou for the unmetricated).
If the clearance is out then you need to adjust the ISCV nut till the gap is .5mm
This is the nut:
Once the gap is set then click again on the reset ISCV button in tuneboy and note the new voltage of the TPS. The voltage should now increase by .15v +-.05v. What all this means is that if you previously managed to nail .6v on the TPS anything between .7v and .8v is good. If the voltage is not between those values then screw the ISCV adjuster nut in or out until it is.
Note: Tuneboy scrolls the value of .12v as the increase. The Triumph manual for the 1050 Speed Triple states that this value should be .15v.
I have checked this out with Wayne McDonald (Mr Tuneboy) and his reccomendation is to follow the Triumph manual (.15v) rather than the scrolling figure of .12v in Tuneboy.
Click on the 'reset ISCV button' again and don't touch anything for 15 seconds. When all is done click on the 'reset adapt' button.
We need to reset the adaptions again properly as described further down.
Switch off ignition, remove whatever you stuck in the inlets to prevent bits falling down there, and reassemble everything in reverse order.
Note: Be certain you tighten the throttle body clips properly right up to their stops when you re-assemble, otherwise you might get an air leak in the manifold which would kinda screw up this whole exercise. Also some SILICONE (or rubber) grease on the manifold and airbox 'velocity stack' (trumpet) rubbers helps quite a bit with seating and re-assembly. And future dismantling.
But before you stick on the airbox you could now take this opportunity to balance out the throttle bodies using the Tuneboy screen below:
To balance the throttle bodies, the tank needs to be connected, so a near empty tank makes the job easier.
The tank needs to be laid across the frame so use something soft like towels or rags to protect frame and tank.
I would say an extra pair of hands to hold the tank would be fairly essential.
The airbox needs to be off to get at the balance screws, but the temp sensor on the airbox needs to be connected to the loom so a nearby stool or chair to hold the airbox next to bike would be nice.
The pressure sensor can just hang anywhere safe, no need for it to be screwed on the airbox.
Warm up the engine. If you like spraying decabonising chemicals (eg Mercury PowerTune) down the inlets now is the time to do it.....
Switch off engine.
Before you start balancing, check how many turns each screw needs to be seated fully (just in case you do not manage to balance off so that you can return them to original settings) Then unscrew each one about 1 or turn or so from fully seated and start balancing from there.
Start engine. Tuneboy seems to lag a bit when you start turning the balance screws so wait a sec or 2 before making further adjustements, and occasionally blip throttle.
Also make sure you turn the correct screw, I suggest you have your laptop at the FRONT of the bike screen towards rear and you. I always make the mistake of adjusting no1 throttle body and wonder why I'm getting a change on no3, cause I always have the laptop at the rear with screen facing forward.....
Re revs I like to balance at my idle rpm whatever that is, with the engine warm. Once the throttle is opened balancing becomes irrelevant, as the bleed air past the screws becomes infinitesimal compared to the rest of the air going through the open TB's.
You balance at idle to get a smooth idle. If you like your idle at 2000rpm then ok balance at 2000 rpm.....me I like mine at 1000-1100 rpm so thats where I balance. Remember, always balance with a warmed up engine as balance does vary a bit between warm and cold.
Sometimes you get the balance spot on sometimes they're off a bit. If you can get the numbers within 5 or so you should be ok but do try to get them all similar.
When everything is in place you can use tuneboy to remove the CEL when the ignition was switched on with the fuel tank disconnected.
Might be a good idea to reload with TuneEdit the tune you were using previously.
Now we need to reset the adaptions properly,
1. After downloading new map successfully turn ignition off and then on again. Then turn off ignition after a few seconds.
2. Exit TuneEdit and open Tune Boy
3. Run Reset Adapt (after turning ignition on again). All the values on the screen change but here I don't
know how long to leave this reset running as after a few seconds (30 maybe) nothing more seems to be happening.
4. Start the engine.
5. Let it idle until Cl Thr adapted shows "Yes" as in pic below. It normally takes 10-15 minutes: (Your idle speed must be set at 1300rpm at 75.5 degrees celsius in the appropriate Tuneboy box otherwise Cl Thr will not show yes).
At least with the O2 sensor connected, this is quite important to follow to avoid problems.
6. Turn off ignition
7. Disconnect cable from bike.
8. Go for a ride
The usual disclaimers apply.
'Ave fun.
ow:
