Rear tail light out, comes on when braking - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Noob! Jelorian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bad Santa 1050 View Post
    Re Fuel Tank -

    Nope, it fits not gonna hinge, however removal is pretty easy.
    Sadly I have it down to removed in about 2 minutes...
    Fuel hoses are quick release, but still scent you with cologne de fuel...

    Re Tail light - thankfully, I've had minimal issues in the last 14 years, apart from actual LED diodes starting to fail and no longer illuminate. I just purchased an aftermarket integrated unit, but only plugged in the tail/brake light wires

    Your lack of working number plate light suggests you need to keep chasing wires... which you already know...
    I'd probably see if you can check if not the tail light and number plate light will work if given power directly from the battery. Longshot, but not impossible that the numberplate light has gone and part of the tail light unit itself as failed over time, with the timing being coincidental.
    Bat Santa, thanks for your reply. I did not have time to attempt the tank removal. I think I will need to do that next as after checking the wiring behind the clamp and the ignition zip tie, I did not find any obvious breaks. That's not to say that the wiring inside intact insulation could be broken.

    I'm actually a bit anxious about disconnecting the hoses from under the tank as I'm reading about old brittle plastic connectors breaking and people upgrading to metal versions? I guess I'll take things slow. Tried to find a "how to" video online, but my search-fu is weak tonight.

    There was about 1 foot of electrical tape around the section of wiring beneath the clamp. It looks like there was a previous repair on the brown wire which, according to the diagram in the Haynes manual is the headlight wire. The red wire should be the one heading down stream for the license plate light and the running tail light so I guess my next step will be to remove the tank and check the connector.

    I've been checking out the threads on

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  2. #12
    Noob! RedRock's Avatar
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    Hi, jelorean. I have a 2008 Speed Triple and had a similar issue when i went led on all my lights and indicators. As sokn as i installed tbe new parts, my lights and turn indicators had a variety of glitches, including what you describe.

    In my case it was the led turnsignals that did not include a load balancer that was the problem. As soon as i installed a load balancer in the turn indicator circuit, it all worked.

    Additionally, some led headlight kits require a different lighting relay module and do not include it in ghe kit. Hope this helps.
    "Why would you ever drive anywhere if you could ride instead?''
    - Maj. General CW Powell (USAF), 1974

  3. #13
    Noob! Jelorian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedRock View Post
    Hi, jelorean. I have a 2008 Speed Triple and had a similar issue when i went led on all my lights and indicators. As sokn as i installed tbe new parts, my lights and turn indicators had a variety of glitches, including what you describe.

    In my case it was the led turnsignals that did not include a load balancer that was the problem. As soon as i installed a load balancer in the turn indicator circuit, it all worked.

    Additionally, some led headlight kits require a different lighting relay module and do not include it in ghe kit. Hope this helps.
    RedRock, thanks for your reply. I do know that some LED upgrades will not work without proper resistors installed. The previous owner did upgrade his headlights to LED's so I will keep that in mind when I do more troubleshooting.

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  5. #14
    Noob! Jelorian's Avatar
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    So I pulled back more of the factory sheathing on the ignition switch wires and discovered cracks in the red and white wires. Both have tested fine for continuity down to the wire coupling/connector so I will use some liquid tape on them for now.


    I was able to get the tank off without any issues as well as the airbox. Now I have better access to the coupling/connector assembly and can do more continuity tests down to the tail light and license plate light connectors. That is about as far as I got tonight. Will continue the hunt for the short/break tomorrow.




    As I learn more about this bike, can someone tell me what would have gone in this location on the left handlebar switch assembly?



    Also, what plugs into this connector? Is this for tuning?

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  6. #15
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello crashmasterd's Avatar
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    The block-off in the left switch gear is for the on/off switch that is legal in some countries but not in the United States.

    The connector circled in red is the ODBII connector, which is required in all vehicles since the mid 90's. It's where you plug in a connector to read fault codes, or in the case of a Triumph, where you can plug in a USB adaptor and use TuneECU to modify the engine management Map.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bad Santa 1050 View Post
    Just when you think it can't get worse, Crash comes along and informs you that not only is the glass not half full, but it is stolen and contains a mix of horse semen, urine, laxative and viagra, right after you swallowed a mouthful...
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Houle View Post
    ...no ink and going baconless on your bacon cheeseburger is about the most rebelious thing you can do these days.

  7. #16
    Noob! Jelorian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashmasterd View Post
    The block-off in the left switch gear is for the on/off switch that is legal in some countries but not in the United States.

    The connector circled in red is the ODBII connector, which is required in all vehicles since the mid 90's. It's where you plug in a connector to read fault codes, or in the case of a Triumph, where you can plug in a USB adaptor and use TuneECU to modify the engine management Map.
    Thanks for that info crashmasterd. I figured it was an ODBII connector but did not think it would be all exposed like that.

  8. #17
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello crashmasterd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jelorian View Post
    Thanks for that info crashmasterd. I figured it was an ODBII connector but did not think it would be all exposed like that.
    Yeah, it just sort of hangs out there. Somewhere there's a plastic blade it's supposed to clip over but I forget where it is and it doesn't really cover it up or anything.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bad Santa 1050 View Post
    Just when you think it can't get worse, Crash comes along and informs you that not only is the glass not half full, but it is stolen and contains a mix of horse semen, urine, laxative and viagra, right after you swallowed a mouthful...
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Houle View Post
    ...no ink and going baconless on your bacon cheeseburger is about the most rebelious thing you can do these days.

  9. #18
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello dr_gallup's Avatar
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    I always flip mine over so it doesn't collect water.

  10. #19
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello Avi8or's Avatar
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    There's a little fin sticking out in there. The OBD2 connector plugs into it.

  11. #20
    Noob! Jelorian's Avatar
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    So I was finally able to track down the short. Looking at the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual I saw that the front running lights share the same power as the license plate light as well as the tail light. Testing for shorts on the rear of the bike came up with nothing so I started moving forward. Testing the front headlight/running light connector and found a short on the right hand side.

    Since this bike had upgraded LED headlights, I decided to open up the headlight assembly to see what was going on there.

    Looks like whoever installed the LED headlights unplugged the small running light and just left the open socket there. As you may or may not know, the running light bulb socket on the front is made of VERY pliable rubber. Without the bulb installed the (+) and (-) contacts were touching, causing the short!

    I was debating just putting a bulb back in there but then I just decided to cut the power to the running light. After that, all is well and the tail light and license plate light are working fine.

    I did patch up the broken insulation on the red and white ignition wiring and then wrapped all the wires with electrical tape and then covered it with some wire mold. Poor design on Triumphs part on how they routed those wires. Too much movement. Oh, I also removed the dumb clamp that causes so many issues in the first place.

    I did not take any pics of the interior of the head light assembly but here are some of the wires that would have gone under that clamp.

    Oh yeah, since I had the tank and airbox off I changed the spark plugs since I was there. I didn't have a new filter so I just blew out the paper OEM filter.

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