Good write up Sparti.
As many of you know from the recent 2014 Aus east coast rally (renamed Aus stator failure rally) two bikes went down.
After ripping open GeetarPauls late 2008 Speed Triple to try and salvage parts to fix Bad Santas bike it was clear to see that the whole stator, rotor and engine case where upgraded on the post late 2008 Speed Triples (to be on the safe side I'm only going to suggest post 2009 bikes from now on). Santas bike could not be fixed on the day but the whole exercise helped to understand why the later model Speed Triples dont have stator failures.
I will add as much info as possible to make this the one thread to go to if you want to fix the stator issues for early (2005 - 2008 ) speed triples.
OLD V UPGRADED STATOR.
The weight difference is quite substantial - 500g (17.6oz)
The image above shows how thick the wall of the old rotors are compared to the new ones. All of the dimension differences between the old and new parts are thinner, longer and narrower which equates to greater heat dissipation.
ARE YOU ONE OF THE UNFORTUNATE ONES?
If you want to know for definite what stator and rotor is in your bike you simply need to check the stator engine case for the ridge as shown in the image below. If you have this ridge then you're safe if you don't then you're going to get bitten and probable at the most inconvenient time you can imagine.
The image on the left is the old case cover. You will notice that the one on the right has an oil gallery (ridge) around the 12 O'clock position.
Dont be confused by the "Triumph" logo on my new stator cover. I ordered a new one and the part numbers have not changed from the plain case to the new embossed ones. If you want either style i suggest you request it at the point of purchase as the part numbers dont differentiate.
This oil gallery is fed by a corresponding gallery that is in the engine case on the later speed triples and all other 1050 engines. Its interesting though that the very latest 1050 engines dont have this oil gallery in the engine cases anymore even though the stator case covers still have the visible gallery.
Dont worry yourself about this, it's not the weak link. The size of the stator and rotor are.
PARTS, USED OR NEW?
Once you've determined that you are the owner of a $#@% stator and want to make make sure you have a trouble free time with your speedy then you will need to procure the following parts from any of the following bike/models.
The parts needed to do the retro fix for the stator are from any of the following model year range:
Speed Triple 2009 - 2013 (VIN: 356143 or greater)
Sprint 1050 ( ST or GT) any year
Tiger 1050 any year
It goes without saying to try and get the parts from as late a model as possible for less wear and tear.
You will need:
ALTERNATOR GASKET (METAL)
For this retro fit to be economical I recommend you locate used parts for the stator and the rotor but buy new for the engine case as its not that expensive compared to a used one and of course the gasket needs to be new and metal.
You may have a good supplier of used bike parts but i personally can not speak highly enough of Imperial Sports Bikes in Denver Imperial SportBikes - Home .
For the new parts needed you can try your local dealer or one of the following:
2010 Triumph OEM Road Motorcycle Parts
2010 Triumph Speed Triple 1050 parts | Hermys Triumph Motorcycle Parts
The new part numbers are below. Ive listed the new parts price as a guide only.
Part Number: T1300113
Note: Eng No 356143 > $691.24
Part Number: T1300111
Note: Eng No 356143 > $412.44
COVER, ALTERNATOR, M/C
Part Number: T1260808
Note: Eng No 356143 > $113.84
GASKET, METAL, ALTERNATOR
Part Number: T1260009
Note: Eng No 356143 > Eng No 403403 $22.39
I managed to get a used stator and rotor off a 2012 speed triple with 4000 on the clock. With delivery from the US, the used parts cost me around $350. I bought a brand new case cover for $130 delivered and bought the metal gasket locally.
All up it worked out a little more than it would have for a rewound stator or a new stator but i now have a stator that is not going to crap itself again.
HOW TO THROW OUT THE OLD AND INSTALL THE NEW.
First up you need to remove the old stator and rotor. Im not going to go through every step, you'll have to follow the workshop manual or better still a Haynes Manual.
I will mention though a few tricks to help you along the way.
The rotor centre nut will most likely be a big pain in the arse to get off. After many hours of @$#%ing and $%#@ing i suggest you get a friend over to help.
Get yourself one of these or similar.
They're cheap and work. Get your friend to place the strap around the stator and take a firm grip. Then take a long breaker bar, if you dont have a breaker bar try and add a pipe of some other extension to your ratchet.
Once you have undone the the centre bolt you will need to get the rotor off the centre spindle. The easiest way to do this is get yourself a longish M22 bolt with a 1.5 pitch thread.
A friend of mine owns a metal lathe so he made one for me.
Place the bolt in the centre threaded whole and use a rattle gun. The rotor just pops off easy peasy.
Once you have all the old crap off you will need to clean up the engine case where the gasket marries up to.
Do this before you decide to put the new rotor on. It makes it a lot easier to do. Dont ask how i know this.
I used a razor blade to get the most of the old paper gasket off and then used some emery paper with oil to completely clean up the surface.
To prevent any material getting in to the case i chased the blade with a vacuum to catch all the shavings.
After all that effort you're left with a nice clean surface.
Now you are ready to reassemble the new parts.
For the sealant around the stator wire plug that seals the case exit you can use Permatex Ultra-Blue or equivalent.
Be careful when you marry the stator cover to the engine case. The magnetic pull will trap your fingers if they are in the way. Take a firm grip and try to prevent the cover being pulled from your hands.
Both Bucket and I have done this retro upgrade and have been running our bikes for the last 4 months hassle free.
The only thing I'm going to do next is add a Compufire RR.
Ill post up some more info soon so stay tuned
PS. When i add more info I'm going to do it to this post so all the info is in one place.
Last edited by Sparti; 09-04-2017 at 08:10 PM.
"The thing I like about bikes is that only people who like bikes are on them... Cars are full of people who don't care." James May
Good write up Sparti.
"I haven't shot anybody since 1992...and even then I didn't do it!" - Mark 'Chopper' Read
well done sir
I might add that not all of the updated cases have the cosmetic Triumph logo in them. Only the most recent ones do. My 09 (vin 363XXX) and my 12 (vin534XXX) both have/had the updated case and stator, but do not have the Triumph logo. As far as the OEM split, it was defo somewhere in 2008. Ricekrispy's orange 08 does not have the update, but advcole's 08 does, as one could observe in his recent thread. Cheers for posting the details, this thread should certainly be made a sticky.
Ha! You came to the wrong place talking that shit. We missing bone, spleens, testicles, and common sense from riding bikes.
Well done Sparti.
Sweet write-up. Thank you Sparti.
Great write up Sparti .
Nice work man. Great stuff.
Thank-you Sparti for the write-up and thanks to Anti as well for mentioning the different cases.
Mine is an 09 and the stator case looks identical to the one pictured on the left in the original post, apart from the additional oil gallery casting.
I assume from that I should be O.K.
BTW CRC make a spray on gasket remover that softens all the old gasket material allowing you to scrape it off with a thin plastic packer or similar.
Less risk of damaging the mating surface but don't overspray if you want your painted bits intact
Last edited by dirty irving; 07-28-2014 at 01:57 AM. Reason: added detail