Before I did that I'd look into the Daytona cam swap. More to be gained while at the same time not risking an overstressed engine component.
Originally Posted by Bad Santa 1050
Just when you think it can't get worse, Crash comes along and informs you that not only is the glass not half full, but it is stolen and contains a mix of horse semen, urine, laxative and viagra, right after you swallowed a mouthful...
Originally Posted by Joe Houle
...no ink and going baconless on your bacon cheeseburger is about the most rebelious thing you can do these days.
have you still got the cams installed? if your not feeling the benefits then something's amiss, have you done compression and leakdown test?
be carefull with a skim as its all a bit close anyway with the higher lift, brings the valves closer again.
I did the "squish test" on my sprint engine when I had it apart after a leveling skim of the head, mild porting and 3-way CNC valve job. There was enough clearance to possibly lose a layer of the head gasket but too close for me.
If you want to maximize the efficiency of these motors, in my opinion you need to attend to the head as mentioned, open the throttle bodies by removing the manufacturing casting at the transition from round to oval, port match inlet tract to ports and likewise on the exhaust side.
Then if you're game and handy, knife edge the TB butterflies & shaft, trim half of the shaft & re-time camshafts.
The Daytona cam swap is a nice power gain but still moves the torque curve up the rev range a little.
If you do ALL of this work and dyno tune expect around 130ish RWHP. Without the cam swap expect around 125RWHP. A well tuned stock engine with no mods will make around 117RWHP. Torque numbers will be around 79, 77 & 73 for the above examples.
Yes cams still installed, 96/104 from memory, still not been brave enough with the tuneecu thing yet, want to drop the motor out to get the frame stripped after xmas and interested in a head skim while its out, throttle bodies still to do as well, life seems to constantly get in the way at the moment. Will be doing compression test as been told it puffs a bit when nailing it off the start line
Thank you for your message, I've read yours and Robs exploits, and I'm well impressed with your results for what is not a lot of money, I did the Daytona exhaust swap in 2019 but not overwhelmed by the difference, although in fairness I haven't remapped it yet. However I use my 2006 Speed Triple mainly for tarmac hill climbing. At our local "hill" which I have been competing at for a few years, this year with the cam swap I am having to use 1st out of a tight hairpin as opposed to 2nd which I was using before the cam swap. I have watched my on board video of the same corner over and over, I can't see it been down to fuelling, it just takes longer to pull at low revs. I raced there a couple of weekends and swapped from a twin exhaust set up with the Arrow Midpipes and a single low can. Hill Climbing usually has tight uphill hairpins so I'm wondering if the cam swap has moved the torque up a bit too much, unlike Rob with his circuit racing where its WOT most of the time, if tolerances are tight as you say with the Daytona cam swap I might have to consider going back to standard if I do the head skim. Following from one of your threads I have managed to install a Sprint front air intake into the front of my airbox, not sure if it will do anything but it made me smile.
So with a few of you mentioning the possible clearance issue using the Daytona Exhaust Cam, does anyone know if the later 2011 / 2016 / 2018 cams will fit, as these models are increasing in power model by model, and if so what difference these would have on the torque/power. I posted a few years back about 1050 Tiger Cams as the Tiger has oodles of low down grunt, general opinion was that they are the same cam as my 2006 speed triple but timed up differently. I can't afford to buy the 1160 when it comes out, let alone afford to crash one!!!