teething trouble
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  1. #1
    Noob! Lopan79's Avatar
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    teething trouble

    Having had solely in line japs in the past, I was really keen to try a british torpedo. And found an 11' model with not much beyond 12k on the clock. The chap wasnt riding it much and the price seemed good.


    Since I have had the bike, now 2 months...
    front fork seal leak - maybe due to sitting, and was 'fixed' with a seal mate.
    oil cooler leak- changed the oring for a generic offering and its still a very slight leak so have the OEM ring to chuck in
    2 Indicators broken off, as their design ain't a comfy fit for my bike cover


    More worryingly of late - steering lock is broken, no matter how far to the left, a little back, slow pushing turning of the key, its just topped working, guess something has seized.
    and...the gearbox is appalling, especially in terms of finding neutral which is often impossible at a standstill, have to roll a little to move the bike and then change, and even then its a damn fine art. Never had such trouble with any bike (this is my 10th).


    Assume more than hope that this is normal for the Speed Triple? Can get past the steering lock broken, by using other locks, but as a first line of defence, its annoying that its broken and likely would cost a bomb to replace.


    As for the gearbox...any work there would be mega pricey. Not sure if its just the oil that was used when the change was done before sale a few months back.


    Only ever had a bike this new once before and there were zero problems with it from 8k to 28k when I sold it - a Yamaha of course. Never had such issues with the Hondas either.


    Are any of these problems I am listing common to the bike?

    Only positive is the berserk power of the in line 3 - which is fine again now with the nixon tune fairly comfy with the GPR Furore low mount (hell of a lot of poppin on decel).

  2. #2
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello Bad Santa 1050's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lopan79 View Post
    Having had solely in line japs in the past, I was really keen to try a british torpedo. And found an 11' model with not much beyond 12k on the clock. The chap wasnt riding it much and the price seemed good.


    Since I have had the bike, now 2 months...
    front fork seal leak - maybe due to sitting, and was 'fixed' with a seal mate.
    oil cooler leak- changed the oring for a generic offering and its still a very slight leak so have the OEM ring to chuck in
    2 Indicators broken off, as their design ain't a comfy fit for my bike cover


    More worryingly of late - steering lock is broken, no matter how far to the left, a little back, slow pushing turning of the key, its just topped working, guess something has seized.
    and...the gearbox is appalling, especially in terms of finding neutral which is often impossible at a standstill, have to roll a little to move the bike and then change, and even then its a damn fine art. Never had such trouble with any bike (this is my 10th).


    Assume more than hope that this is normal for the Speed Triple? Can get past the steering lock broken, by using other locks, but as a first line of defence, its annoying that its broken and likely would cost a bomb to replace.


    As for the gearbox...any work there would be mega pricey. Not sure if its just the oil that was used when the change was done before sale a few months back.


    Only ever had a bike this new once before and there were zero problems with it from 8k to 28k when I sold it - a Yamaha of course. Never had such issues with the Hondas either.


    Are any of these problems I am listing common to the bike?

    Only positive is the berserk power of the in line 3 - which is fine again now with the nixon tune fairly comfy with the GPR Furore low mount (hell of a lot of poppin on decel).
    - The fork seal, shite happens. They happen when they happen.

    - My 06 Speedy, is my 3rd EFI Triumph Inline Triple, and I have Never had any oil leak issues from the oil cooler.

    - Steering lock issue is all new to me.

    - Gearbox. These 955 derived gearboxes in the 1050s, are somewhat agricultural compared to Japanese items, especially the likes of Suzukis, but still better than a BMW boxer.
    The symptoms you describe, I would attacking by:
    1 - Adjusting the clutch cable at the lever and at the engine end. The struggling to find Neutral is typical of clutch cable not properly adjusted and the clutch not disengaging thoroughly.
    2 - Drain the oil, and give her a fresh gut full of 10W40... This tends to takeout some of the clunkyness. When she gets clunky again, its time to change the oil again.

    In terms of oil, from early on I found that Fully Synthetic 10W40 Motul was fairly clunky. At the suggestion of my mechanic we tried Semi Synthetic Motul, which smoothed things up.

    Oils I've used that satisfied include:

    Semi Synthetic Motul
    Yamalube - Semi Synthetic
    Silkolene Synthetic
    Silkolene Semi Synthetic
    Penrite Semi Synthetic
    Penrite Synthetic

    - Silkolene and Penrite were from Supercheap Auto, and the Yamalube from the local dealership for much less than Motul, Repsol, Motorex or other pricey brands.
    Hopefully that solves some of those issues and make it more liveable.



    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello Chewie.'s Avatar
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    I had similar thoughts to Santa. I've had 7 triumphs and never had trouble finding neutral on any of them. Do as Santa suggested and try adjusting the clutch, and changing the oil. I have been using Yamalube full synthetic for years now. Good quality oil at a pretty good price.

    As for the broken indicators, if they've been snagged on the bike cover, you cant really blame the bike.

    I expect that the correct o ring should solve the oil leak problem.
    John







    "I haven't shot anybody since 1992...and even then I didn't do it!" - Mark 'Chopper' Read

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  5. #4
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello dr_gallup's Avatar
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    I would say the fork seal problem is possibly from sitting or more likely just some dirt since the seal mate fixed it.

    My 06 shifts pretty well since I replaced the sloppy factory linkage with a direct shifter from a Yamaha YZ80. I never did have much trouble with neutral though. I do normally find neutral while still moving but it's not hard at a stop. Probably more a cable adjustment issue.

    I've fed mine a steady diet of Amsoil full syn.

    Never had any issue with the steering lock. I'd try a good blast of penetrating oil before getting serious.

  6. #5
    Noob! Lopan79's Avatar
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    Brilliant and helpful advice from all commenting above above. Much appreciated.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bad Santa 1050 View Post
    - The fork seal, shite happens. They happen when they happen.

    - My 06 Speedy, is my 3rd EFI Triumph Inline Triple, and I have Never had any oil leak issues from the oil cooler.

    - Steering lock issue is all new to me.

    - Gearbox. These 955 derived gearboxes in the 1050s, are somewhat agricultural compared to Japanese items, especially the likes of Suzukis, but still better than a BMW boxer.
    The symptoms you describe, I would attacking by:
    1 - Adjusting the clutch cable at the lever and at the engine end. The struggling to find Neutral is typical of clutch cable not properly adjusted and the clutch not disengaging thoroughly.
    2 - Drain the oil, and give her a fresh gut full of 10W40... This tends to takeout some of the clunkyness. When she gets clunky again, its time to change the oil again.

    In terms of oil, from early on I found that Fully Synthetic 10W40 Motul was fairly clunky. At the suggestion of my mechanic we tried Semi Synthetic Motul, which smoothed things up.

    Oils I've used that satisfied include:

    Semi Synthetic Motul
    Yamalube - Semi Synthetic
    Silkolene Synthetic
    Silkolene Semi Synthetic
    Penrite Semi Synthetic
    Penrite Synthetic

    - Silkolene and Penrite were from Supercheap Auto, and the Yamalube from the local dealership for much less than Motul, Repsol, Motorex or other pricey brands.
    Hopefully that solves some of those issues and make it more liveable.



    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    Can't blame the speedy for the indicator manglings...any advice on where to get some cheap replacements? Not sure they will take much more superglue routines! I'm not that concerned with the look, just that they are simple to fit.

    Yeh, maybe the former owner was as accurate in his 'yep, new filter and full oil change before the RWC' as he was with his certainty that the little stub can 'exhaust' made the bike run so much better. Oil change isnt going to cost a bomb, and cant do any harm.

    The clutch lever was so firm I had loosened it, so likely where some of the issue has come from. Yet cannot think of a way to have the clutch handle far less rigid and to still have the required bite at clutch end to disengage/ engage fully? Can't be either mega firm and more fluid or softer pull and mechanical issues with engage/disengage? Again...the previous owner has an aftermarket clutch lever, was replaced with stock for the RWC.

    Try penetrating oil down the locking barrel? Just spray down and wiggle the key around!? leave to penetrate and then see if anything has changed?

  7. #6
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello dr_gallup's Avatar
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    I haven't ever looked at the lock as it's always worked but there must be something that moves down at the bottom where it engages the triple clamp. I'd look at it and spray down there. Did it ever work since you've owned it? Entirely possible someone snapped it off, not that hard to do.

  8. #7
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello Chewie.'s Avatar
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    I'm not sure either, how it works, but I'll be pulling the ignition out of mine in the next couple of weeks to fit a new one, so I'll figure out how the steering lock works and whether it is serviceable.
    John







    "I haven't shot anybody since 1992...and even then I didn't do it!" - Mark 'Chopper' Read

  9. #8
    AA
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    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello AA's Avatar
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    I’m with the Doc.
    Usually only put graphite into lock barrels but spray up from the bottom into mechanical parts.
    Quite possible it has been broken while being stolen or attempted theft.
    You can lube the clutch cable to help with the pull but basically it is a cable clutch and you will develop the right muscle over time and forget about it.
    I have an old Wes Cooley rep with heavy duty clutch springs and I’m a small desk jockey.
    A boiler maker mate once wondered where I got the golfball sized muscle on my left wrist.
    Seriously not just wanking.
    This is the wattle, the symbol of our land.
    You can stick it in a bottle, you can hold it in your hand.
    Australia, Australia, Australia, we love you, Amen.
    Crack a tube.

  10. #9
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello Bad Santa 1050's Avatar
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    Where the arrow is pointed, slides out and locks/engages the steering lock.

    Its possible if someone has attempted to steal the bike, they may have damaged the mechanism or slide.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  11. #10
    Noob! Scottdog's Avatar
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    Not sure about clunkyness, had always assumed this was a Triumph thing sort of a "positive gear change", been the same with most of the Triumphs I've owned. After changing oil and filter thought I would give the Castrol Activ 15w-50 4T a go, I put in about 3.5Ltr. After about 200ks or so, I had the same problem with finding it difficult to put in neutral and shifting gear, I put it down to my new boots which were stiff. I don't routinely check everything before or after I ride, it's a modern bike not like my old 72 Tiger 750 which needed spannering after every ride. I was satisfied with the oil level a couple of days after I had changed it so thought no more about it. Then I read on here somewhere that the speedy in known to burn oil so checked my oil level and it needed topping up, not had any further issue. Gear change is still "positive", but not as loud.

 

 
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