06 S3 intermittent rough idle/misfire
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  1. #1
    Chicken Strips Duffman's Avatar
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    06 S3 intermittent rough idle/misfire

    Hey guys, long time no post.

    My S3 has sat dormant for a few years while I was overseas and truth be told it wasn't running great when I left.
    I did all the big maintenance stuff when I got back, fork seals, rear hub, breaks front and rear and all the good stuff.
    Any ways, this problem has left me stumped.

    Bike: 06 S3 with an 08 motor. old motor grenaded at 29k, replaced with 08 motor that had around 17k. bike has 34k on her now, so 22k motor miles lol.

    It starts up most times and idles either at 1200 ish, and sounds good. or 700 ish and I almost have to keep on the throttle to stop it from dying. Sometimes when I fire the bike up it immediatly runs like garbage and sounds like its missing a cylinder. No check engines, and I am just getting the hang of TuneECU for diag purposes so bear with me. Problem is not dictated by a hot engine or a cold engine. Sometimes the bike will start and idle normally, Ill start riding it and just like that it doesnt want to hold an idle when I pull the clutch in. power is sparse up to 3k and then its like the afterburners kick on!

    I have at this point done the following to eliminate this issue with no success
    • brought it to dealer to have throttle bodies balanced, and IACV checked for functionality
    • They flashed it because they said the fuel maps were very outdated (not sure on this)
    • changed spark plugs (CR9ek if I remember correctly)
    • changed air filter (K&N)
    • changed coils
    • drained and refilled gas tank with fresh gas


    any other throughts? Riding season is upon us and I would really like to be riding again!

  2. #2
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello 2doggs's Avatar
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    TPS/stepper motor.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Originally Posted by m4ppy
    I have always ridden Aprilias and Ducati bikes, but after years of failing electrics and parts failing off I moved over to Triumph.

  3. #3
    Chicken Strips Duffman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2doggs View Post
    TPS/stepper motor.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Is the TPs and stepper motor the same part? also, what can I do to diag this?

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  5. #4
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello 2doggs's Avatar
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    Yes sir. You’ll need to tap into the ECU to read the voltage coming from the TPS. Use TuneECU (free download) and a diagnostic cable to talk to the ECU. Unsure of what the voltage is supposed to be, but you can Google that or find it on one of the triumph specific websites.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Originally Posted by m4ppy
    I have always ridden Aprilias and Ducati bikes, but after years of failing electrics and parts failing off I moved over to Triumph.

  6. #5
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello dr_gallup's Avatar
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    I was able to get some oil inside my stepper and solve my idle problems (2 years so far, fingers crossed). Others have replaced it with a simple mechanical screw, claim it's pretty much set it and forget it but they usually put a piece of tubing or such on it so they can make and adjustment if necessary.

  7. #6
    Chicken Strips Duffman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2doggs View Post
    Yes sir. You’ll need to tap into the ECU to read the voltage coming from the TPS. Use TuneECU (free download) and a diagnostic cable to talk to the ECU. Unsure of what the voltage is supposed to be, but you can Google that or find it on one of the triumph specific websites.

    I will check that out. I got a Bluetooth obd2 reader that works with tuneECU but won’t run tests or map the bike. Gotta grab another.


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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_gallup View Post
    I was able to get some oil inside my stepper and solve my idle problems (2 years so far, fingers crossed). Others have replaced it with a simple mechanical screw, claim it's pretty much set it and forget it but they usually put a piece of tubing or such on it so they can make and adjustment if necessary.
    I’d have to look at the diagram for the stepper motor. What is the purpose of the motor then? To adjust the idle of the bike depending on running conditions?

    Could a vac leak in the air box cause these symptoms? I’ll have to go through all the hoses and check to make sure they are good and snug.

    Also, the K&N air filter I have doesn’t have a gasket between it and the lower air box ring. Does that matter?

  8. #7
    The "Friends" of Officer Frank Poncherello 2doggs's Avatar
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    “The purpose of the stepper motor is to control the idle speed of the engine in all conditions. If you start a gasoline engine when it's cold out and the engine is cold, if you didn't have the stepper motor you would have to manually open the throttle a bit to keep the engine going until the bike heated up.”

    Also regulates idle when engaging clutch.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Originally Posted by m4ppy
    I have always ridden Aprilias and Ducati bikes, but after years of failing electrics and parts failing off I moved over to Triumph.

  9. #8
    Chicken Strips Duffman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2doggs View Post
    “The purpose of the stepper motor is to control the idle speed of the engine in all conditions. If you start a gasoline engine when it's cold out and the engine is cold, if you didn't have the stepper motor you would have to manually open the throttle a bit to keep the engine going until the bike heated up.”

    Also regulates idle when engaging clutch.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I will see what there is to see when I get some free time on my hands. I am going to go through the Airbox vacuum lines and make sure all are clamped on nice and tight and put some gasket maker around the seams, I dont feel as if there is a tremendously good seal there. I replaced the three rubber "trumpets" as triumph called them leading into the throttle bodies and I have a cable on order from lonetec. I had bought a cheapo bfax bluetooth obII reader to use with my old S8+ as a diag tool but it would not report back the Map that the bike had, so I had no way of seeing if there was an issue with the map. I did note the Map code though and from my understanding it was mapped at the dealship as if it was a bonestock bike, not one with a different exhaust and all that.

    despite all of this, I ook forward to finding a solution to this weird phantom problem.

  10. #9
    Noob! turboz's Avatar
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    I've been having a similar issue for some time now. So with my 2006, I have the famous intermittent "RPMs drop/bike nearly stalls" when I pull in the clutch and start slowing down. Also, it takes a good 3-5 seconds of cranking to get it started. Once started, the bike misfires with any throttle input and there seems to be an abundance of condensation coming from the exhaust. Once at operating temp, it starts and runs strong. Just performed an oil change and there does not appear to be any coolant contamination in the oil. Also did a compression test and all cylinders are strong, PSI wise. The difficult cold starts led me to believe that valve clearance would be the issue, but all were within spec. A few exhaust valves were at .30mm, so on the loose side, but within spec.

    So far I've tried a new battery,checked battery terminals for corrosion, checked fuses, replaced complete throttle body assembly/tps/iscv, tried stoltec grounding cables, new plugs, checked all vacuum lines and throttle body boots, checked valve clearance, checked headstock wiring, tried several tunes and have performed the 12 minute tune more times than I can count. When I set the TPS and reset adaptions, it'll be within spec one day- go check it the next and the voltage has changed..... I'm running a mosfet R/R and I replaced the stator with a unit from Rick's motorsport a few thousand miles ago.

    The fact that my problem has persisted over several years has me ready to sell the bike...I hope you find a remedy, and if you do- please update your post to help people troubleshooting in the future!

  11. #10
    Chicken Strips Duffman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turboz View Post
    I've been having a similar issue for some time now. So with my 2006, I have the famous intermittent "RPMs drop/bike nearly stalls" when I pull in the clutch and start slowing down. Also, it takes a good 3-5 seconds of cranking to get it started. Once started, the bike misfires with any throttle input and there seems to be an abundance of condensation coming from the exhaust. Once at operating temp, it starts and runs strong. Just performed an oil change and there does not appear to be any coolant contamination in the oil. Also did a compression test and all cylinders are strong, PSI wise. The difficult cold starts led me to believe that valve clearance would be the issue, but all were within spec. A few exhaust valves were at .30mm, so on the loose side, but within spec.

    So far I've tried a new battery,checked battery terminals for corrosion, checked fuses, replaced complete throttle body assembly/tps/iscv, tried stoltec grounding cables, new plugs, checked all vacuum lines and throttle body boots, checked valve clearance, checked headstock wiring, tried several tunes and have performed the 12 minute tune more times than I can count. When I set the TPS and reset adaptions, it'll be within spec one day- go check it the next and the voltage has changed..... I'm running a mosfet R/R and I replaced the stator with a unit from Rick's motorsport a few thousand miles ago.

    The fact that my problem has persisted over several years has me ready to sell the bike...I hope you find a remedy, and if you do- please update your post to help people troubleshooting in the future!
    It sounds exactly like what I am going through. I have an 08 motor in mine and I think, but don't know for sure that Triumph sorted out the R/R in that year.

    I am with @2doggs, I think it's a TPS issue, a software issue, or a vacuum issue.

    What are you running for plugs? I have the NGK CR9EKs I think, but I was told that those are too cold. maye someone with some better plug knowledge can chime in.

    What do you have done to the bike otherwise? any exhaust mods? or blocked off SAI? I have a hunch the dealer remapped my bike to a bone stock tune, which took care of the initial cold start issue but this problem is still prevalent. I will update with more info when my Lonetec cable comes in and I am able to start really diaging stuff.

 

 
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