2010 Speedy starting issues - Possible bad started solenoid?

[Jelorian]

EDIT: Title should read "2010 Speedy starting issues - Possible bad starter solenoid?

Went on a group ride a couple weeks back. Parked the bike to grab some lunch. Came back and the bike will not start up. Pressed the starter button but nothing happens.

My Harley riding buddies were giving me shit that I caused the ride to be cut short but they all hung out and helped troubleshoot and we eventually got it started by jumping the leads on the starter solenoid. Rode the bike home to drop off the S3 and picked up my VFR to continue the ride. Everyone (all 5 Harley guys and 1 Yamaha MT07) came back with me and waited for me to get my VFR and we headed out again.

In any case, I finally had time to look at the bike.

-Instrument cluster turns on and it does go through the system check.
-I can hear the fuel pump priming
-I can hear the relay under seat clicking when pressing the starter button
-Headlights - NO
-License plate light - NO
-Turn signals - YES
-Brake light - YES
-Horn - YES
-All fuses look good visually
-battery with ignition off is 12.72v

Volt measurements on fuses/fuse box ignition off

-Fuse 1 - 5A - Instrument Cluster/fuel pump relay/EMS Relay/starter relay - 0.0v
-Fuse 2 - 30A - Ignition - 12.69v
-Fuse 3 - 10A - Turn signals/brake light/horn - 12.69v
-Fuse 4 - 10A - Alarm, diagnostics connector - 12.69v
-Fuse 5 - BLANK
-Fuse 6 - 20A - EMS - 12.66v
-Fuse 7 - 15A - Fan - 12.66v
-Fuse 8 - 20A - Headlights/starter solenoid - 0.0
-Fuse 9 - 5A - Tail light, license plate light - 0.0



Like before, I was able to start the bike by jumping the leads (circled in blue) on the starter solenoid. Sorry about the bad pic. It is hard to get my camera phone close enough.



Since the starter solenoid controls power to the headlights and license plate light this leads me to believe that the starter solenoid is bad.

I ran out of time but next test will be Fuse 8 while trying to press the starter button. I guess that would confirm if there was a short between the started button and the fuse box.

Test continuity on the 2 leads with blade connectors (circled in red) going into the starter solenoid.

Any other suggestions?

[sussurf]

Upgrade starter, ground & solenoid cables.
Load test the battery

[SPEEDTRIPPER]

Definitely check you've got a good ground to the starter, but don't discount the wiring harness possibly having a break where it goes through the bracket near the headstock.
This may not be relevant to the 2010 model but was very common on the earlier years, speaking from first hand experience.

[Jelorian]

Definitely check you've got a good ground to the starter, but don't discount the wiring harness possibly having a break where it goes through the bracket near the headstock.
This may not be relevant to the 2010 model but was very common on the earlier years, speaking from first hand experience.

Will be checking that out this weekend. I hope it is just wiring and not something in the ignition barrel. The 2010's suffer the same issue with that stupid clamp/bracket!

[Bad Santa 1050]

Pull the right hand switch block (with the starter button) apart, and check all contacts for corrosion or anything that may compromise the starter circuit.

This was the cause of my intermittent starting issues. After multiple checks and a rebuilt starter motor.

The bike was 13 years old then with 100,000 miles. YMMV.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[Jelorian]

Found some extra time last night. Pulled the tank and airbox and disconnected the ignition wiring from the main connector location under the tank near the right side of the frame.

Started unwrapping some electrical tape near the ignition barrel and found the broken bastard wire! What a poor design on Triumph's part. I hope this is a not an issues with the newer bikes.

Looks like an old repair that just broke.

Now what is the best way to splice these wires together?

Normally I would splice and solder and then cover with marine heat shringk, but that creates a stiff section of wire in a place that sees some movement.

Marine grade butt connectors?

Aside from electrical tape is there a better material to wrap and protect the wiring?

[chaos]

A Self-fusing silicon sealing tape can be used where normally your standard electrical tape would do.
Personally,I think you should desolder the broken wire,if not all of them. Rework that entire part of the loom . From key switch to the connecter block.

[Jelorian]

A Self-fusing silicon sealing tape can be used where normally your standard electrical tape would do.
Personally,I think you should desolder the broken wire,if not all of them. Rework that entire part of the loom . From key switch to the connecter block.

That will be my last resort as I don't want to deal with removing the 2 shear bolts. But I agree with you. I would much rather have a new custom harness.

[SPEEDTRIPPER]

I just bought some trailer harness wiring and replaced the whole harness from the back of the ignition switch to the connector. The shear bolts aren't that hard to remove and the pins pull out of the connector.
If you intend on keeping her its definitely worth the couple of hours to do the job properly.

[Jelorian]

I just bought some trailer harness wiring and replaced the whole harness from the back of the ignition switch to the connector. The shear bolts aren't that hard to remove and the pins pull out of the connector.
If you intend on keeping her its definitely worth the couple of hours to do the job properly.

Thanks for your message. That is what I will definitely do if I ever run into any problems there again. How did you remove your shear bolts?

I do intend on keeping her for awhile.