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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, long time no post.

My S3 has sat dormant for a few years while I was overseas and truth be told it wasn't running great when I left.
I did all the big maintenance stuff when I got back, fork seals, rear hub, breaks front and rear and all the good stuff.
Any ways, this problem has left me stumped.

Bike: 06 S3 with an 08 motor. old motor grenaded at 29k, replaced with 08 motor that had around 17k. bike has 34k on her now, so 22k motor miles lol.

It starts up most times and idles either at 1200 ish, and sounds good. or 700 ish and I almost have to keep on the throttle to stop it from dying. Sometimes when I fire the bike up it immediatly runs like garbage and sounds like its missing a cylinder. No check engines, and I am just getting the hang of TuneECU for diag purposes so bear with me. Problem is not dictated by a hot engine or a cold engine. Sometimes the bike will start and idle normally, Ill start riding it and just like that it doesnt want to hold an idle when I pull the clutch in. power is sparse up to 3k and then its like the afterburners kick on!

I have at this point done the following to eliminate this issue with no success
  • brought it to dealer to have throttle bodies balanced, and IACV checked for functionality
  • They flashed it because they said the fuel maps were very outdated (not sure on this)
  • changed spark plugs (CR9ek if I remember correctly)
  • changed air filter (K&N)
  • changed coils
  • drained and refilled gas tank with fresh gas

any other throughts? Riding season is upon us and I would really like to be riding again!
 

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TPS/stepper motor.


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Yes sir. You’ll need to tap into the ECU to read the voltage coming from the TPS. Use TuneECU (free download) and a diagnostic cable to talk to the ECU. Unsure of what the voltage is supposed to be, but you can Google that or find it on one of the triumph specific websites.


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I was able to get some oil inside my stepper and solve my idle problems (2 years so far, fingers crossed). Others have replaced it with a simple mechanical screw, claim it's pretty much set it and forget it but they usually put a piece of tubing or such on it so they can make and adjustment if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes sir. You’ll need to tap into the ECU to read the voltage coming from the TPS. Use TuneECU (free download) and a diagnostic cable to talk to the ECU. Unsure of what the voltage is supposed to be, but you can Google that or find it on one of the triumph specific websites.

I will check that out. I got a Bluetooth obd2 reader that works with tuneECU but won’t run tests or map the bike. Gotta grab another.


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I was able to get some oil inside my stepper and solve my idle problems (2 years so far, fingers crossed). Others have replaced it with a simple mechanical screw, claim it's pretty much set it and forget it but they usually put a piece of tubing or such on it so they can make and adjustment if necessary.
I’d have to look at the diagram for the stepper motor. What is the purpose of the motor then? To adjust the idle of the bike depending on running conditions?

Could a vac leak in the air box cause these symptoms? I’ll have to go through all the hoses and check to make sure they are good and snug.

Also, the K&N air filter I have doesn’t have a gasket between it and the lower air box ring. Does that matter?
 

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“The purpose of the stepper motor is to control the idle speed of the engine in all conditions. If you start a gasoline engine when it's cold out and the engine is cold, if you didn't have the stepper motor you would have to manually open the throttle a bit to keep the engine going until the bike heated up.”

Also regulates idle when engaging clutch.


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Discussion Starter #8
“The purpose of the stepper motor is to control the idle speed of the engine in all conditions. If you start a gasoline engine when it's cold out and the engine is cold, if you didn't have the stepper motor you would have to manually open the throttle a bit to keep the engine going until the bike heated up.”

Also regulates idle when engaging clutch.


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I will see what there is to see when I get some free time on my hands. I am going to go through the Airbox vacuum lines and make sure all are clamped on nice and tight and put some gasket maker around the seams, I dont feel as if there is a tremendously good seal there. I replaced the three rubber "trumpets" as triumph called them leading into the throttle bodies and I have a cable on order from lonetec. I had bought a cheapo bfax bluetooth obII reader to use with my old S8+ as a diag tool but it would not report back the Map that the bike had, so I had no way of seeing if there was an issue with the map. I did note the Map code though and from my understanding it was mapped at the dealship as if it was a bonestock bike, not one with a different exhaust and all that.

despite all of this, I ook forward to finding a solution to this weird phantom problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've been having a similar issue for some time now. So with my 2006, I have the famous intermittent "RPMs drop/bike nearly stalls" when I pull in the clutch and start slowing down. Also, it takes a good 3-5 seconds of cranking to get it started. Once started, the bike misfires with any throttle input and there seems to be an abundance of condensation coming from the exhaust. Once at operating temp, it starts and runs strong. Just performed an oil change and there does not appear to be any coolant contamination in the oil. Also did a compression test and all cylinders are strong, PSI wise. The difficult cold starts led me to believe that valve clearance would be the issue, but all were within spec. A few exhaust valves were at .30mm, so on the loose side, but within spec.

So far I've tried a new battery,checked battery terminals for corrosion, checked fuses, replaced complete throttle body assembly/tps/iscv, tried stoltec grounding cables, new plugs, checked all vacuum lines and throttle body boots, checked valve clearance, checked headstock wiring, tried several tunes and have performed the 12 minute tune more times than I can count. When I set the TPS and reset adaptions, it'll be within spec one day- go check it the next and the voltage has changed..... I'm running a mosfet R/R and I replaced the stator with a unit from Rick's motorsport a few thousand miles ago.

The fact that my problem has persisted over several years has me ready to sell the bike...I hope you find a remedy, and if you do- please update your post to help people troubleshooting in the future!
It sounds exactly like what I am going through. I have an 08 motor in mine and I think, but don't know for sure that Triumph sorted out the R/R in that year.

I am with @2doggs, I think it's a TPS issue, a software issue, or a vacuum issue.

What are you running for plugs? I have the NGK CR9EKs I think, but I was told that those are too cold. maye someone with some better plug knowledge can chime in.

What do you have done to the bike otherwise? any exhaust mods? or blocked off SAI? I have a hunch the dealer remapped my bike to a bone stock tune, which took care of the initial cold start issue but this problem is still prevalent. I will update with more info when my Lonetec cable comes in and I am able to start really diaging stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been having a similar issue for some time now. So with my 2006, I have the famous intermittent "RPMs drop/bike nearly stalls" when I pull in the clutch and start slowing down. Also, it takes a good 3-5 seconds of cranking to get it started. Once started, the bike misfires with any throttle input and there seems to be an abundance of condensation coming from the exhaust. Once at operating temp, it starts and runs strong. Just performed an oil change and there does not appear to be any coolant contamination in the oil. Also did a compression test and all cylinders are strong, PSI wise. The difficult cold starts led me to believe that valve clearance would be the issue, but all were within spec. A few exhaust valves were at .30mm, so on the loose side, but within spec.

So far I've tried a new battery,checked battery terminals for corrosion, checked fuses, replaced complete throttle body assembly/tps/iscv, tried stoltec grounding cables, new plugs, checked all vacuum lines and throttle body boots, checked valve clearance, checked headstock wiring, tried several tunes and have performed the 12 minute tune more times than I can count. When I set the TPS and reset adaptions, it'll be within spec one day- go check it the next and the voltage has changed..... I'm running a mosfet R/R and I replaced the stator with a unit from Rick's motorsport a few thousand miles ago.

The fact that my problem has persisted over several years has me ready to sell the bike...I hope you find a remedy, and if you do- please update your post to help people troubleshooting in the future!
So update.

I finally got my cable in from Lonetec and got tuneecu fired up on my ancient PC and went through the bike that way. I looked at the fuel map and things seemed fine. actuated the Idle stepper, heard noises, then reset adaptations. The bike seems to run much better now, and hasnt hiccuped or almost stalled once. I am unsure as to why this might have fixed things, maybe a runaway adaptation left one of the long term fuel trims way off around idle. we will see how it goes!
 

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I hope it solves the issue. Not to rain on your parade, but when my stepper motor was going bad I would reset the adaptives and TPS and everything worked fine for about 150 miles. Next time I went out to start it, same idle/stall issues. Reset TPS and adaptives again and everything worked fine. I suggest a test ride close to home each time before any long runs. Just 20 feet forward in 1st then engage the clutch and you’ll know if you need another reset. It’s what I did for over a year before finally bringing it to the dealer.


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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
So the problem originated when I had a MiVV GP slip on (with arrow low tune) along with a BMC air filter, SAI block off, mosfet R/R and Rick's stator. I went ahead and swapped the entire throttle body assembly with TPS & everything installed and the problem continued. Unless I was extremely unlucky to have two TB assemblies with bad IACV or TPS, I figured I could rule TPS/IACV out as the culprit.
I had the Iridium NGK's (heat range 9) installed, but recently swapped them with CR8EKs.
Just recently put the TORS cans back on and loaded the correct tune even trying a O2 sensor delete map.....no luck. Even swapped out the coils and the issue continues....
The really irritating thing is that the bike starts up pronto after resetting adaptions and running a 12 min tune. A few hours later it's back to the issue.

Has anybody thoroughly checked the grounding points on an S3? is there a grounding point on the frame or bottom of the motor? I know I had that issue on my thruxton years ago, checked a ground that ran to the bottom of the motor and it cleared up the issue.
I have not traced the grounds but I know there is a large lug on top of the transmission. other than that no idea.

Is the IACV stepper motor mounted on the throttle body or underneath it? also, have you use the TuneECU to measure voltage across the IACV and the TPS? Just save youself the headache and buy the cable from Lonetec or whatever. amazon OBDII readers are garbage and will not work
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hope it solves the issue. Not to rain on your parade, but when my stepper motor was going bad I would reset the adaptives and TPS and everything worked fine for about 150 miles. Next time I went out to start it, same idle/stall issues. Reset TPS and adaptives again and everything worked fine. I suggest a test ride close to home each time before any long runs. Just 20 feet forward in 1st then engage the clutch and you’ll know if you need another reset. It’s what I did for over a year before finally bringing it to the dealer.


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the parade was rained on haha. it was good for about two trips then it was back to the drawing board. the IACV stepper motor is the stepper motor you're refering to? If that is the case Ill get one on its way. The parts cannon is being loaded as we speak.

I had another thought, and it was to the fuel pump and screen filter. An intermittently malfunctioning fuel pump (like one thats on its way out) could mimic a bad idle control. Happened 4 months ago on my old f150. ran great, then would idle and run like shit until I gave it the goose and then it was fine....for about 4 miles then it was done for.

Gonna throw a new pump and fuel filter at it at the same time, the bikes got almost 40k on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@2doggs

Well man, this is really stumping me now.

I replaced the TPS, set voltage dead nuts to .60, ran the IACV, it tested at +.15 volts, so good, threw it all back together and it was dark and cold so i left it

Flash forward to today, first 70 degree day here in MA, and same exact symptoms as before.

Plug in my ancient laptop that can only turn on if its plugged in and see that the voltage for the TPS is now .67...and the IACV corroborates by reading .78 volts....how in the hell is that possible?



I also looked at the fuel mapping, and realized when the dealer reflashed it they reflashed the map for a bik with high mounts and a bunch of other shit I dont have, so I remapped it to the early TOD. I realize throwing a bunch of stuff into the mix all at once isnt a great idea but I am a little at wits end. bike woke right up, took it up and down the road and things seemed ok. I will readjust the TPS when I get a free afternoon this week and see what happens.
 

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Hopefully the tune will solve the issue. When I first dropped my bike off at the dealer they called me a few days later and said they had it all fixed and all it required was a new map. I told them I don’t think that’s the cure, but I would come down and ride the bike for a few miles near the dealership and return with a report. Bike started acting up before I even got out of the parking lot. That’s when they decided to replace the TPS stepper motor. Everything has worked well since.


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