OK, got everything cleaned up. I didn't realize there were that many casting flaws until I started doing it. I need more sanding rolls, this could take a while
AK - Trust me, it amazed me about the casting as well.
The Dremel sanding drums do not last long. The sanding rolls that fit on a 1/4 inch shank last a good bit longer. But you will need a cheap die grinder to use them.
Man, you weren't kidding with the die grinder. This is actually fun now! If I wasn't borrowing that Dremel tool to begin with, it would be in the trash.
How's this look? Keep in mind that they're "upside down."
One I've only lightly sanded w/ Dremel (just enough to remove flaws)
One that's recieved "the business," granted I'm not done, I still need to clean it up. Just wanted to make sure I'm being a good boy.
I think I can still take some off of the sides, but I was starting to worry about the bottom (top.)
Your photos are good - the ports are really looking good.
The bottoms of the ports look good. Go a bit wider with the sides, and make the shape more round, as needed to match the port bottom (match the port in the first photo to the second one. Work at least 1/4 inch deep into the port (1/2 inch is better for this diameter) - yours look to be good on the second photo.
Clean up any casting "nipples" on the port roof, and you may fing a couple of stripes that need cleaning up (especially on 2006 and later headers). The little wedge shape between ports (center of the figure 8 shape) may need a little clean-up.
Use your fingers in the ports and feel for places where smoothing needs to be done. You fingers can feel very fine irregularities (about 0.002 inches), much finer than you need. Your sense of touch can be your best friend when porting.
Do I understand that you have now switched to a die grinder? Much easier.
Good deal.
I think we are seeing the birth of a porting monster.
Let us know how the bike runs and sounds once you get it back on the road. :smitty:
By the way, I make it a point to bleed on every vehicle I own. It somehow seems to make it a part of me. Kind of like marking it - M-I-N-E. Some might say I need serious help.
AK - thanks for showing that this work can be done by the beginner. It takes intestinal fortitude to step up and try doing something new on your bike. I applaude your efforts.
It was actually fun too, once I bought a die grinder. Pretty cheap as well. Now all I have to do is try out 20088, Avi8tor's tune, and Dev's.
I currently have performed the header mods, removed the SAI, and have a Zard slip on. I was thinking Dev's tune might work better than Avi8tor's, but only due to Avi8tor having a Zard full system. I don't know what the differences are between stock vs. Zard header-wise. Looking at the two maps, they're actually pretty similar. Either way, it's going to be way better than the map my dealer installed, 20101
If you open TuneEdit with Avi8or's tune, look at the 'fuel % trim'. He altered the 20080tune_dyno39.dat from 60% to 100% throttle.
At 100% throttle, and 5400 rpm and 5750 rpm have as much as 13% less fuel and the 3200 cell has 11% more.
Your riding impressions at wide open throttle up to 7000 rpm might be informative. I am very curious how the Zard silencer reacts to the stock header and the modified one. But I have yet to see a Zard silencer dyno with the stock header.
I wuz thinking..........my Zard came with a baffle, which was obviously removed. Maybe just maybe, Wayne's tune would have had better fuelling in the midrange with the baffle.
Opinions Dev?
Hi Dev / Avi8,
I'm running the stock header with a Zard slip on (No DB killer). Initially with the TORS maps from my local dealer. Everything was great; it fealt great. Then the bike went back for the spongey brake mod and came back running differently. I asked the dealer if he'd changed anything, he said he uploaded the latest TORS map as a favour while he had the bike. Since then the bike doesnt pull as cleanly out of slow corners in a high gear. In extreme cases the bike snatches. (the chain is correctly tensioned) I know some will say when do you do that? But I do ride slowly at times and did prefer the previous feel.
I'm planning to resolve the tune with either a Power Commander or Tune boy but am delaying whilst I confirm if my exhuast has got the pre-cat. The weather is crap anyway here just now. I dont think I have the skills to use a Tuneboy so will probabaly settle for the PC.
MH
Devious2xs said:
Let us know how each performs.
If you open TuneEdit with Avi8or's tune, look at the 'fuel % trim'. He altered the 20080tune_dyno39.dat from 60% to 100% throttle.
At 100% throttle, and 5400 rpm and 5750 rpm have as much as 13% less fuel and the 3200 cell has 11% more.
Your riding impressions at wide open throttle up to 7000 rpm might be informative. I am very curious how the Zard silencer reacts to the stock header and the modified one. But I have yet to see a Zard silencer dyno with the stock header.
Come on man!!! If I can use TB anyone can. It took me a whopping 3 minutes to load a tune onto my bike today (after 30min reading the manual just to see what's what.) It's probably easier than a power commander, because you don't have to spend the time mounting it to your bike.
Cheers.
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