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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDIT: Title should read "2010 Speedy starting issues - Possible bad starter solenoid?

Went on a group ride a couple weeks back. Parked the bike to grab some lunch. Came back and the bike will not start up. Pressed the starter button but nothing happens.

My Harley riding buddies were giving me shit that I caused the ride to be cut short but they all hung out and helped troubleshoot and we eventually got it started by jumping the leads on the starter solenoid. Rode the bike home to drop off the S3 and picked up my VFR to continue the ride. Everyone (all 5 Harley guys and 1 Yamaha MT07) came back with me and waited for me to get my VFR and we headed out again.

In any case, I finally had time to look at the bike.

-Instrument cluster turns on and it does go through the system check.
-I can hear the fuel pump priming
-I can hear the relay under seat clicking when pressing the starter button
-Headlights - NO
-License plate light - NO
-Turn signals - YES
-Brake light - YES
-Horn - YES
-All fuses look good visually
-battery with ignition off is 12.72v

Volt measurements on fuses/fuse box ignition off

-Fuse 1 - 5A - Instrument Cluster/fuel pump relay/EMS Relay/starter relay - 0.0v
-Fuse 2 - 30A - Ignition - 12.69v
-Fuse 3 - 10A - Turn signals/brake light/horn - 12.69v
-Fuse 4 - 10A - Alarm, diagnostics connector - 12.69v
-Fuse 5 - BLANK
-Fuse 6 - 20A - EMS - 12.66v
-Fuse 7 - 15A - Fan - 12.66v
-Fuse 8 - 20A - Headlights/starter solenoid - 0.0
-Fuse 9 - 5A - Tail light, license plate light - 0.0



Like before, I was able to start the bike by jumping the leads (circled in blue) on the starter solenoid. Sorry about the bad pic. It is hard to get my camera phone close enough.



Since the starter solenoid controls power to the headlights and license plate light this leads me to believe that the starter solenoid is bad.

I ran out of time but next test will be Fuse 8 while trying to press the starter button. I guess that would confirm if there was a short between the started button and the fuse box.

Test continuity on the 2 leads with blade connectors (circled in red) going into the starter solenoid.

Any other suggestions?
 

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Definitely check you've got a good ground to the starter, but don't discount the wiring harness possibly having a break where it goes through the bracket near the headstock.
This may not be relevant to the 2010 model but was very common on the earlier years, speaking from first hand experience. :sad:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Definitely check you've got a good ground to the starter, but don't discount the wiring harness possibly having a break where it goes through the bracket near the headstock.
This may not be relevant to the 2010 model but was very common on the earlier years, speaking from first hand experience. :sad:
Will be checking that out this weekend. I hope it is just wiring and not something in the ignition barrel. The 2010's suffer the same issue with that stupid clamp/bracket!
 

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Pull the right hand switch block (with the starter button) apart, and check all contacts for corrosion or anything that may compromise the starter circuit.

This was the cause of my intermittent starting issues. After multiple checks and a rebuilt starter motor.

The bike was 13 years old then with 100,000 miles. YMMV.

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Discussion Starter #6
[FONT=&quot]Found some extra time last night. Pulled the tank and airbox and disconnected the ignition wiring from the main connector location under the tank near the right side of the frame.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Started unwrapping some electrical tape near the ignition barrel and found the broken bastard wire! What a poor design on Triumph's part. I hope this is a not an issues with the newer bikes.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Looks like an old repair that just broke.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Now what is the best way to splice these wires together?[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Normally I would splice and solder and then cover with marine heat shringk, but that creates a stiff section of wire in a place that sees some movement.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Marine grade butt connectors?[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Aside from electrical tape is there a better material to wrap and protect the wiring?

[/FONT]
 

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A Self-fusing silicon sealing tape can be used where normally your standard electrical tape would do.
Personally,I think you should desolder the broken wire,if not all of them. Rework that entire part of the loom . From key switch to the connecter block.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A Self-fusing silicon sealing tape can be used where normally your standard electrical tape would do.
Personally,I think you should desolder the broken wire,if not all of them. Rework that entire part of the loom . From key switch to the connecter block.
That will be my last resort as I don't want to deal with removing the 2 shear bolts. But I agree with you. I would much rather have a new custom harness.
 

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I just bought some trailer harness wiring and replaced the whole harness from the back of the ignition switch to the connector. The shear bolts aren't that hard to remove and the pins pull out of the connector.
If you intend on keeping her its definitely worth the couple of hours to do the job properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just bought some trailer harness wiring and replaced the whole harness from the back of the ignition switch to the connector. The shear bolts aren't that hard to remove and the pins pull out of the connector.
If you intend on keeping her its definitely worth the couple of hours to do the job properly.
Thanks for your message. That is what I will definitely do if I ever run into any problems there again. How did you remove your shear bolts?

I do intend on keeping her for awhile.
 

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I used my Dremel with a little cutting disc to cut a slot in each head, then used a flat bladed screw driver to undo them.
Just make sure you apply pressure and twist firmly incase the thread lock makes them tight.
Then replace them, I used small allen heads.
 

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First motorbike tool I bought was an impact screw driver.
First thing I do on bikes when I buy them is replace all phillip head boltsd with socket-head cap screws.
 
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Man, I remember the nightmare that was my '64 Triumph. Everything external on that thing was held together with Phillips head screws with Whitworth threads. Back in the 80's it was nightmarish to find any Whitworth replacement hardware, much less ones that didn't have Phillips heads.

Why did I buy that thing again?
 

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A friends father used to race classic trumpies up until recently.
He had the good fortune of having two son-in-laws who were /RAAF F111 pilot.(one daughter, long story)
Those beautiful beasties (the F111s) ran AF titanium bolts that were never reused when serviced and got thrown into a bucket called “for Bert”.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
First motorbike tool I bought was an impact screw driver.
First thing I do on bikes when I buy them is replace all phillip head boltsd with socket-head cap screws.
That is always a good thing if you can find ones that look good. Especially the ones that are easily seen like fairing bolts.

In this case, we are talking about shear bolts and how to get them out as they have no head to start with.
 

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That is always a good thing if you can find ones that look good. Especially the ones that are easily seen like fairing bolts.

In this case, we are talking about shear bolts and how to get them out as they have no head to start with.
Yep, so I’d use the Dremel and and an impact screw driver to break the threadlock.
I’ll do almost anything to avoid having too use EZouts. :)
 

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A friends father used to race classic trumpies up until recently.
He had the good fortune of having two son-in-laws who were /RAAF F111 pilot.(one daughter, long story)
Those beautiful beasties (the F111s) ran AF titanium bolts that were never reused when serviced and got thrown into a bucket called “for Bert”.
Sounds like an interesting tale. You must tell me, the next time we catch up.

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