Nothin? People been clamoring for this... LOL

 

Does anyone around here even own a Speed Triple anymore? opcorn:

Frankly I'm surprised you didn't work with the timing. These engines seem to respond very well to about 3º of ignition advance in the upper RPM ranges. Of course then you'd have to start from scratch on the fuel tables.

 

Yeah, at this point we were out of time and didn't want to get into the whole ignition thing. The last Triumph he had on his dyno was a Daytona, and they did the fueling and then the owner played with the timing and blew his motor up. LOL Not sure what he did, but my tuner isn't fond of Triumphs to begin with, and so he didn't want to open up a can of worms.

 

Well there's your problem. You can't go to a tuner who already has an ant-Triumph bias and expect to get a good tune out of them.

You're in Freakin' Georgia. Why didn't you take it to Wayne Tripp? That fücker will iron it out and make it like a new bike, and he specializes in Triumphs.

 

Well for one, Wayne Tripp has not been in business in over a year I am told. I ran into one of his guys, Shane, at Barber last year at a track day, and he said that Wayne was closing down the business due to health issues. I have emailed him a few times since then, with no response. Wayne did my Daytona, and the results were great.

The issue is more of dealing with TuneECU. It does a lot, but it is a pain in the ass.

My tuner is a great guy. AMA mechanic, gets flown around the world to work as crew chief on various teams from the TT to Asian Grand Prix. He has tuned 15 or so of my bikes, personally, and the results are always stellar.

But he doesn't use TuneECU a lot, and so it doesn't seem to go as smooth. He typically works with DynoJet, TEKA, and some software that lets him control Yamaha and Kawi stock ECU's directly... Bazzazz, etc... He has worked wonders for me, many times over the years. But Triumphs for whatever reason, possibly the software, never seem to go as planned.

In any case, my bike is running great with the new map. I just figured that I would leave well enough alone and not mess with timing. If I would just spend the $300 and get a PC-V, he could have tuned it to perfection in half the time and called it a day.

When I take my 1198 to him for a tune, I will be doing exactly that, even though I have a program similar to TuneECU for that bike, that does everything that TuneECU does, and also lets me clear maintenance minders.

Others have had good results with my last map, and this one is much better. Curious to see what you guys think.

 

That's news to me about Wayne. Of course he doesn't come around here anymore (someone pissed him off) and I don't hang out at 675.net enough to get the news.

Of course that may have been just an excuse for him to play with boats again.

 

I'll be giving this try as soon as I get home today!

 

Map Uploaded. Running 12 Minute Tune. Expect to hear from me shortly, otherwise I'm dead.

 

Not sure what a 12 minute tune will do with the O2 sensors disabled? And this tune should only be used with them disabled.

 

Its a habbit. I went ahead and left it disabled. It feels pretty crisp. This was a pretty fun adventure.

 

Resetting the adaptives has nothing to do with the O2 sensor. It pulls its information from the ambient air temperature sensor and the various air pressure sensors. It has more to do with air pressure and temperature than anything else.

 

I notice that when you reset adaptive with the O2 sensors disabled, no matter how long you let it idle, it never gives you the green tps light?

 

Itll give you the TPS light, Just not the Closed loop fuel light next to it.

 

Hmmmm, I will try it when I get home then...

 

Went in and reset adaptives. Made sure to not touch the throttle, or anything for that matter.

So I clocked to reset, then turned the ignition off for 10 seconds, turned it back on, and started the bike without touching the throttle. I let it sit there idling for 20 minutes, I timed it. The green TPS light never came on. When the O2 sensors were plugged in and I did the reset, the green light would come on by 10 minutes or so, when the cooling fan kicked on usually. Since I disabled them, no green light.

After 20 minutes I shut it off, and then started it back up and went for a ride. I noticed that the idle dropped, down to just under 1000rpm, which it never did before. Ideas? I don't think it is the map, as we didn't make any changes at the area around idle, and it was idling normally before the adaptives were reset.

Or was it idling high before(1300) and now it is correct?

 

I usually start my bike, then click reset adaptation, then let it run. The light usually comes on in less than a minute. But Santa is right the 12 minute nonsense will do the trick.

Btw, do I have to actually unplug my o2 sensor or does disabling it in Tuneecu do the same thing?

 

1300 seems about right, perhaps the ever so slight high side of normal. 950-1000 sounds about right - particularly whilst the motor and cooling system is quite hot after sitting still idling for 20 minutes. Start it again after it's cooled, and I think you'll find the idle is back to what you're used to.

With resetting the adaptives, don't worry about the green light business. If you've let her idle for 12 minutes without touching throttle at all, consider it that the adaptives ARE reset.

 

Ok, the bike cooled over night, I will reset again to make sure I did it right and then not worry about it. I will set my timer for 15 minutes just to be sure.

Anyone try the map yet? How does it feel?

 

Seems to idle better now, not sure what I messed up before, thanks!

 

Had nothing but rain here. :disappointed:

 

Since unplugging them, I never get the green light no matter how long I let it sit there idling.

As for unplugging, I figured I might as well make sure that it cannot sniff the exhaust and try to make any changes. I disabled it in TuneECU, but what if that just turns off the error code from popping up, but doesn't actually disable it? I figured better to be safe than sorry, so I disabled it, and then unplugged it so that there is no chance that the ECU will try to adjust anything...

 

I don't know. I'm not a programmer. But it does the same thing on my Street with the 02 sensor disabled. It's been discussed on this site before. Nothing to worry about.

 

Ok, cool. Bike feels fine, so I guess it is working.

Any of you other folks give it a try yet? I had half a dozen people or more all eager to get the map, and since then not much response or feedback...

 

I'll load it and report back as soon as I'm back from vacation in 2 weeks

 

Cool, anyone else want to try it and give feedback?

 

The one thing I'm mainly noticing is how smooth the throttle response is as well as the off throttle to on throttle transition. The power Somes on really nicely. It doesn't look like I'm gonna get very good gas mileage on this tank. I'm not sure if that is a result of driving like a cheetah on red bull or the AFR. I'm leaning towards driving though. I really wish there was someone who could tweak the ignition then this map would be perfect. Maybe I'll splice the TOD ignition tabes just for fun and see what happens.

 

The O2 Sensor is only active at idle and at very small throttle openings and low RPM's. This is where your bike is running in "Closed Loop Mode" which is using the O2 sensor to adjust mixture and give it (supposedly) a smoother idle and less abrupt low throttle performance along with decreased emissions. Unchecking the O2 sensor box simply disables "Closed Loop Mode" and forces the ECU to fall back to the fuel tables at all RPM's and throttle openings.

At higher RPM's and throttle openings above about 8% the O2 sensor does nothing. It's a narrow band O2 sensor anyway, and isn't really fast enough to adjust the mixture on the fly. Supposedly you can replace it with a wide-band O2 sensor and use it more efficiently at higher throttle openings and RPMs, but I don't know much about that.

 

Thanks crash. I wasn't expecting such a thorough answer. Now I just need to delete my evap canister. Wanna point me towards a good thread on that?

 

I've never done it so I can't advise you. I think you just remove it and route the breather somewhere where it won't get plugged. You might put an in-line fuel filter on the end to keep crap out of the breather.

 

I honestly don't know. Contacting Tom might be your best bet. I thought there was some way to adjust what RPM the change came at, but I don't know for certain or what it might be.

 

I have an email in to Tom, lets see what he has to say. I will say that this bike can be trickier than most. With any of my Jap bikes, I just toss in a Power Commander, hand it to my tuner, it comes out perfect every time and you just forget about it.

 

leave the O2 disabled. The bike attempting to adjust is what makes it so bitchy at parking lot/stop-n-go traffic speeds.

 

Good point.

Tom did say to leave ignition timing alone, that only a couple weeks ago a very respected German tuner was tuning a Speed Triple R, and blew up the motor playing with ignition, that the max change was 5 degrees in one spot and that blew it up.

 

100% with what Joe said.

Adjusting ignition can be done, however to do so one needs to take precautions and proceed in a step by step process without rushing. Power (Wayne) Tripp, successfully created great tunes by adjusting and advancing ignition. He DOES however take precautions and is extremely meticulous with Everything he does.
The key precaution is a KNOCK sensor, that is wired up to cut the power if knock is detected, so that it prevents any damage occurring. Knowing the anti knock properties of the fuel you're running is quite helpful too. Sounds like this "respected" german tuner wasn't that crash hot if he didn't take such precautions which would've prevented him creating a Speed Triple R paperweight.

 

Here is the before and after of my first mildy modified Arrow Lowboy map, and this updated map. Smoothed it out a bit, and picked up a few ponies on top.

 

That sounds about right. Second gear pulls against a stock 2012 confirm. It is incredibly visible in the video that area right around 7k the stock bike loses power momentarily while the tuned bike shoots ahead. Both riders here weigh about the same for what it is worth.
[video=youtube;JGfR0pBLFQ8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGfR0pBLFQ8[/video]