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You can thank Pope for this thread.
It seems that several new S3 have had a few issues with their bikes. Here are a few things to look for, and how to fix them.
Fuel tank - If your fuel tank SUX air like a moderator when you open it, the air and fuel drain lines have been put on incorrectly. This can cause starting problems and can damage the tank. Remove the tank and make sure the line with the disc valve is on the outside (left side).
When you put the tank back on, move it as far forward as possible, and make sure the seat has the little pads on it to prevent scratching the tank.
If you notice something floating in the tank, it is likely a small piece of rice paper with "QC Passed" or similar written on it. This is normal. If you want another one, let me know, I will send you the one I removed.
Mechanical noise from engine or drive-train. More than likely, your chain needs oil.
Chain tension - a bit loose is better than a bit tight.
Suspension/Ride - If the suspension is too hard or soft, the dealer likely didn't set the bike up correctly. Take it back to them and tell them to do it right - especially if you paid a set up fee.
Throttle slack - If the throttle moves a good bit before the throttle begins to open, take the bike to your dealer, and tell them to adjust it properly - especially if you paid a set up fee.
Headlights - If you cannot see well at night, you headlights are likely not adjusted correctly for best coverage. This only requires loosening the mounts and re-aiming them for better coverage.
Fuel - the bike runs just fine one 89 octane (R+M/2), but feel free to run what you want.
The gear change lights can be set to flash at different RPMs - RTFM.
The speedometer reads high by about 6.5-7%.
The Tachometer reads low at high rpm. The stock rev limit is 9400, but the tach will indicate nearly 10,500 rpm when it kicks in.
If you want to do any of this yourself, search this site for more detailed instructions.
Perhaps others can add more here.
It seems that several new S3 have had a few issues with their bikes. Here are a few things to look for, and how to fix them.
Fuel tank - If your fuel tank SUX air like a moderator when you open it, the air and fuel drain lines have been put on incorrectly. This can cause starting problems and can damage the tank. Remove the tank and make sure the line with the disc valve is on the outside (left side).
When you put the tank back on, move it as far forward as possible, and make sure the seat has the little pads on it to prevent scratching the tank.
If you notice something floating in the tank, it is likely a small piece of rice paper with "QC Passed" or similar written on it. This is normal. If you want another one, let me know, I will send you the one I removed.
Mechanical noise from engine or drive-train. More than likely, your chain needs oil.
Chain tension - a bit loose is better than a bit tight.
Suspension/Ride - If the suspension is too hard or soft, the dealer likely didn't set the bike up correctly. Take it back to them and tell them to do it right - especially if you paid a set up fee.
Throttle slack - If the throttle moves a good bit before the throttle begins to open, take the bike to your dealer, and tell them to adjust it properly - especially if you paid a set up fee.
Headlights - If you cannot see well at night, you headlights are likely not adjusted correctly for best coverage. This only requires loosening the mounts and re-aiming them for better coverage.
Fuel - the bike runs just fine one 89 octane (R+M/2), but feel free to run what you want.
The gear change lights can be set to flash at different RPMs - RTFM.
The speedometer reads high by about 6.5-7%.
The Tachometer reads low at high rpm. The stock rev limit is 9400, but the tach will indicate nearly 10,500 rpm when it kicks in.
If you want to do any of this yourself, search this site for more detailed instructions.
Perhaps others can add more here.
