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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been trying to get my coolant to stop turning to chocolate milk with little success. I ran Engine Ice for the past year and it didn't seem as bad, but was still cloudy and dark. I drained the system and refilled with Peak EG long life coolant (silicate & phosphate free), and the brown mud seems to be coming right back. I don't know what the hell I have to do to get it to stop turning the coolant/antifreeze mix brown, but I'm at my wits end.

I've done the vinegar flushes, water flushes, 50/50 flushes, and nothing seems to stop it. Does anyone have any idea what might work or what exactly is causing it? I can't imagine that any "casting sand" would still be lingering in the engine after 14+ flushes. Any help?
 

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is oil mixing with it?
 

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Mine still has the same issue as does my father in laws tiger 1050. I would remove the reservoir and clean thoroughly then run distilled water only. Drain water after each ride until it starts coming out clear at which time you add coolant...
 

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Even if there was any casting sand left, I would probably have to be a whole heck of a lot to create that much muddy mixture. I am kind of wondering if anti and Ryan have it right: might have some oil somehow seeping into your coolant. However, I'd also take Shaughnessy's advice first and run only water and drain after each ride just to make sure.
 

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How many miles?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't think it's oil, there's no separation and when I left a jug of it sit for a while the brown stuff sunk to the bottom like sediment. I would assume that oil and antifreeze wouldn't mix, or at least separate over time. When I clean out the overflow bottle the red-brown stuff behaves more like a sediment than an oil. Sorry, I'm not articulate right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It had about 22K when I bought it last July, and it's got it around 34K now. Last fall I flushed it a bunch of times using various methods to try to solve the issue with little success. The first batch of coolant that I drained looked like rusty chocolate milk, and it never really separated. I would assume that oil and coolant would eventually diverge, with oil floating to the top. After about 6 full system flushes with a garden hose, the brown stuff seemed to go away (for the most part). I'll see if I can find a photo of on of the bottles that had the brown stuff in it...
 

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that looks like shit. you have been using tap water, so it could be rust. pull your water pump and tell me what the impeller blade looks like
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I only used tap water to flush it out (took off hoses and rinsed out crap), but never had tap water in the bike when it was actually running. I might dump the coolant out tonight and see what the pump look like.
 

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I have also seen impellers rust away to nothing after a vehicle has sat for a long time with low coolant. regardless, I'm also curious to see the inside walls of the water jackets. pop out the t-stat and look inside. see if the walls are all stained up that same shit color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
here we go...
you can see some of the rusty crap in the fill neck
photo 1.JPG

and here's what the coolant looked like in the pan (not too bad but I didn't really run in longer than 5 minutes).
photo 2.JPG

the water pump blades are intact and not really rusty...

photo 3.JPG

and a close up of the pump...

photo 4.JPG
 

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here we go...
you can see some of the rusty crap in the fill neck
View attachment 5114

Is that the radiator itself rusted, or does that wipe off and originate from somewhere else? What sort of corrosion inhibitors does your used coolant have? As in does it have any and what sort of a mix ratio have you been using?

Is it possible for the wet cylinder liners to rust? They are plain steel, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's the thing: I'm pretty sure the engine is aluminum, the radiator is brass or aluminum, I don't know where there would be any steel to create rust in the first place. I'm not sure where the rust is originating from, and I'm assuming that it is rust and not something else (oil, chemical reaction, etc.). I know that other people have had issues with this in the past, but I haven't been able to find where anyone found the source or a solution.
 

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My overflow is the same shytty color. Been that way since I got the bike. Guess I could change the coolant one day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dont't know what corrosion inhibitors are in it, but it's Peak 50/50 long life coolant, silicate and phosphate free. I'll check the label and see but I don't think they get too specific. I'm going to go back to a Propylene Glycol mix for no reason other than maybe that will affect it. I'm also thinking of doing a flush with some rust destroyer.
 

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I had a radiator hose collapse on it's self, took the cap off and found alot of sand. I flushed the block out with a water hose and it was alittle sandy in there, refitted it all and filled it with distilled water and water wetter only. It's took hot in LA for that green shit. Haven't had any problems after the flush.
 
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