[XTR]

Alright, Here is where riding a Harley with a belt is telling on me. I havn't adjusted a chain on a bike since I was a teenager (and dirt bikes were air cooled back then)

What tools do I need to get to adjust the chain on my spdy.

I know I need a spanner, size and source appreciated.

What size is the axle nut. (big)

And I need a single sided stand.

Anything else?

Oh how much play to you usually adjust too?

 

[dfib]

XTR - the tool you need should be under your seat. You'll need the socket/wrench for the nut on the swingarm, and the spanner for the chain adjustment cam.

Triumph recommends 35-45mm vertical play if I remember correctly. I usually aim for 30-35 measured at the lowest point in the chain.

 

[Goffe]

FWIW, my dealer (knowledgable, by all accounts so far) siad the Triumph chain specs are a little tight. I asked because my last bike had shaft drive, and I hadn't thought about chains in years and years.

 

[Devious2xs]

I would agree, Triumph's specs seem a bit tight. I prefer to be a bit looser and simply check tension and adjust more often.

 

[scratch]

I mounted a Motech centerstand to my Speedy, but any sort of rear stand designed to fit your SSSA (Pit Bull, etc.) will do the trick. You should have a big C-shaped spanner in your toolkit with a slip-on handle; that's used to grab the toothed eccentric adjuster that's located in the narrow slot between the sprocket and the wheel hub. You can see the adjuster by sighting directly from behind the bike. Just to the inside of that on the back of the swing arm is the lock nut for the eccentric; I believe it's 15mm or 17mm.

Note: you DO NOT loosen the rear wheel lug nut for this procedure.

1. Get the back wheel off the ground and loosen the eccentric lock nut.
2. Grab the toothed adjuster next to the inside of the sprocket with your C-spanner and rotate it forwards or backwards to loosen or tighten the chain, then tighten the lock nut.
3. Push up on the chain in the center of the lower run between the sprockets and look for @ 1-1/2" free play. Like the others guys here have said, it's a good idea to err a little on the loose side to save wear & tear on the sprockets and chain.

Repeat adjustment steps 2 & 3 until you get the proper slack, and when it looks right, check one last time to make sure that you've tightened the lock nut. You're done!

Your first attempt will take a while, but once you're familiar with the procedure it only takes a minute or two.

 

[premier]

Does the rear wheel really need to be lifted off the ground? I should adjust the chain, but can't lift the rear.

 

[XTR]

Thanks for the input. I forgot I saw the spanner in my tool kit, I knew what is was for when I saw it, but for some reason I was thinking that I didnt have one.

 

[DirtMcGirt]

Just to the inside of that on the back of the swing arm is the lock nut for the eccentric; I believe it's 15mm or 17mm.

is this it?

 

[APtech77]

That's it ...and yes it's 17mm.

 

[DirtMcGirt]

thanks :drink:

 

[kuhlka]

Rear wheel doesn't need to be off the ground, and the recommendations the manual gives have it always on the side-stand or vertical. I don't go by the ~1" rule. I go with what feels and looks right. If your bike is making a loud whirring noise at slower speeds up until around 45+, your chain is way too tight. If you can hear your chain slapping around, you might destroy your sprockets.

Basically, if you have a buddy check the play with you sitting on the bike, you want it to still have some play with all of your weight on the seat. You don't want to be stretching your chain when you go over bigger bumps or are practicing wheelie/stoppie combos.

 

[DirtMcGirt]

thanks scratch and all...got her done tonight...holy shit was that nut on tight...had to hit that bitch with a big fuckin hammer...being mech. unclined i thought it was very easy...nice design...i like when the manuf. thinks of the owner and routine mat. ... :smiley-asskiss:

on a side note...can you get the chain and sprockets off like this too?

 

[BillT]

Looser is better than tighter, when it comes to chains. If the chain is too tight, you're putting unnecessary stress on the chain and sprockets. You just don't want the chain so loose it can jump a tooth.

I'm not hard on my bike, and I've only adjusted the chain twice - at about 7000 miles and at 12000 miles - the latter because I took my swingarm off for cleaning and lubing. I still check it every 1000 miles or so, and I spray the chain all the time (about every 200 miles, or twice a week).

 

[DocPup]

on a side note...can you get the chain and sprockets off like this too?

nah...sprocket takes, taking off the rear nut on the port side

 

[APtech77]

Looser is better than tighter, when it comes to chains. If the chain is too tight, you're putting unnecessary stress on the chain and sprockets. You just don't want the chain so loose it can jump a tooth.

I'm not hard on my bike, and I've only adjusted the chain twice - at about 7000 miles and at 12000 miles - the latter because I took my swingarm off for cleaning and lubing. I still check it every 1000 miles or so, and I spray the chain all the time (about every 200 miles, or twice a week).

True, you are also putting a lot of stress on the counter shaft, bearings and seals. No good!!

 

[BUCKET]

Big fn hammer! :violent1: ;D

 

[kuhlka]

To take the chain off you're going to need a chain breaker tool or an angle grinder.

You don't need to take the wheel off to do anything other than replace the rear brake rotor.

 

[scratch]

BTW, if anyone here is looking for a Motion Pro chain breaking/riveting tool, this is the cheapest I've seen lately:

http://www.toolsource.com/motorcycle-chain-breaker-riveting-tool-p-101027.html


<edit> When I originally posted the Toolsource link, their price was $57.00 and change. It's priced at $89.00 now (9/1/09) so you might want to look elsewhere for a better deal.

 

[Tharp]

FWIW, my dealer (knowledgable, by all accounts so far) siad the Triumph chain specs are a little tight.

I'm starting to agree with this and am going to loosen mine a tad. Just had the rear tire replaced and the shop said my chain looked a little loose, so they tightned it up. Now the thing shifts like shit, if I decide to kick it into neutral at a light, it might go it might not, that lever is stuck until I start moving. The lever stuck once or twice going from 3rd to 4th.

Checked it with some calipers and it's per the book, since that's the only thing that changed I'm going with too tight.

 

[kuhlka]

Same thing happened when I took my bike to RPM. This is why I rarely follow factory specs to a T unless it has to do with engine or transmission.