My behaves just that way...
Cooling Fan Noise
Not sure this qualifies as "trouble" yet... but can I ask how often the fan goes on for those folks with '05-'07 Triples?
Once the bike is warmed up with approx. 6 bars on the temperature display, my fan seems to go on when I slow down under 30 mph to 1st & 2nd gear. And it seems really loud... and whines a little like the power steering on a 70's era K-car making a tight turn. (o.k. not that bad, but enough that the fan noise is very noticible under 30 mph)
Is it just me being overly hyper, or does everyone else have a loud fan?
Once the bike is warmed up with approx. 6 bars on the temperature display, my fan seems to go on when I slow down under 30 mph to 1st & 2nd gear. And it seems really loud... and whines a little like the power steering on a 70's era K-car making a tight turn. (o.k. not that bad, but enough that the fan noise is very noticible under 30 mph)
Is it just me being overly hyper, or does everyone else have a loud fan?
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
+2. kicks on in traffic. Bars always 6.
Yes, the fan will come on when the gauge shows 6 bars.
Things you can do to improve cooling:
Keep radiator clean and free of grime and debris between fins.
Add 3-4 drops of "Soft Soap" to the radiator.
Reduce antifreeze %/increase water %, and add surfactant like Water Wetter.
Convert coolant to Engine Ice or similar coolant.
Coat/Wrap headers
Convert stock fan to Muzzy's aluminum bladed fan.
Lower temperature thermostat.
I have reduced the antifreeze level to 20-25% (water cools much better than antifreeze), added Water Wetter, and coated and wrapped my header. I rarely see 6 bars, and only when stopped. The engine cools down much sooner than before - so the fan runs less. On the dyno, the engine is considerably more repeatable due to the improved cooling.
Things you can do to improve cooling:
Keep radiator clean and free of grime and debris between fins.
Add 3-4 drops of "Soft Soap" to the radiator.
Reduce antifreeze %/increase water %, and add surfactant like Water Wetter.
Convert coolant to Engine Ice or similar coolant.
Coat/Wrap headers
Convert stock fan to Muzzy's aluminum bladed fan.
Lower temperature thermostat.
I have reduced the antifreeze level to 20-25% (water cools much better than antifreeze), added Water Wetter, and coated and wrapped my header. I rarely see 6 bars, and only when stopped. The engine cools down much sooner than before - so the fan runs less. On the dyno, the engine is considerably more repeatable due to the improved cooling.
Dev - Do you just drain some anti freeze and add tap water? That will work now that the weather is warmer but when fall/winter comes back, should you add back the AF?
Add deionized or distilled water from the grocery store. Minerals and chlorine in tap water can attack the block and radiator.
I drained my cooling system and then added coolant to protect to 15 degrees F (read the label of antifreeze you select - it will have a chart). It never gets this cold where I live, and my bike stays in the garage on cold winter nights.
If you live in a colder climate, you can add more coolant for winter if needed.
Nothing cools better than water. If you add something to break up the water tension - Soft Soap, Water Wetter, etc., it works even better. ;D You need a bit of coolant to prevent corrosion and lube the water pump, but more than about 25% is too much IMHO. Royal Purple makes a surfactant called Purple Ice that has a lubricant.
I have thought about using a colder thermostat, but I am not having issues. And the current one seems about right.
I drained my cooling system and then added coolant to protect to 15 degrees F (read the label of antifreeze you select - it will have a chart). It never gets this cold where I live, and my bike stays in the garage on cold winter nights.
If you live in a colder climate, you can add more coolant for winter if needed.
Nothing cools better than water. If you add something to break up the water tension - Soft Soap, Water Wetter, etc., it works even better. ;D You need a bit of coolant to prevent corrosion and lube the water pump, but more than about 25% is too much IMHO. Royal Purple makes a surfactant called Purple Ice that has a lubricant.
I have thought about using a colder thermostat, but I am not having issues. And the current one seems about right.
is the muzzy fan blade application specific or a generic item that needs to be modified to fit?
MOST bike fans are the same. The Muzzy's unit fits the Triumphs just fine. I have one, but never installed it.
I only did a bit of work to the blades to add more pitch and add more cup to the blade tips. I have been working boat props for a LONG time. Maybe I will get a chance to test it this year. ;D They Daytona guys seem to notice a nice difference with this fan. it has to be better than the stock design.
I only did a bit of work to the blades to add more pitch and add more cup to the blade tips. I have been working boat props for a LONG time. Maybe I will get a chance to test it this year. ;D They Daytona guys seem to notice a nice difference with this fan. it has to be better than the stock design.
I add Engine Ice last week and do notice the fan comes on a bit less. When it does come on, it only runs 20-30 sec and then kicks off. I also notice, after a stop at a light, once I start going, it cools down a bit quicker. The stock coolant after 400 miles looked like dirty mop water. I'm glad I dumped it. Engine Ice seems to work..
Make sure that if the coolant looks muddy, to flush it completely.
Also, flush when switching between PG and EG coolants.
Generally from the factory, there is sand left in the casting that will come loose with a few heat cycles. If you manage the coolant by changing it if/when it is no longer clear, you will prevent a lot of build up in the block/heads ad in the radiator from clogging small passages and pockets.
Also, flush when switching between PG and EG coolants.
Generally from the factory, there is sand left in the casting that will come loose with a few heat cycles. If you manage the coolant by changing it if/when it is no longer clear, you will prevent a lot of build up in the block/heads ad in the radiator from clogging small passages and pockets.
Dev,
For those of us that are just starting to do our own work and still learning, could you give us a blow by blow account of the proper way to flush and refill with the proper percentages so we don't get air in the system?
Thanks (again) in advance...
For those of us that are just starting to do our own work and still learning, could you give us a blow by blow account of the proper way to flush and refill with the proper percentages so we don't get air in the system?
Thanks (again) in advance...
Air will be a problem due to the twists and bends in the system.
Easiest method:
Place large pan under left side of radiator.
Remove lower radiator hose and drain.
Replace hose.
Fill with water (radiator cap), and drain again. Repeat until no color can be seen in coolant.
Drain. and refit hose.
Add correct amount of coolant for the protection you want. The manual says the volume is 2.8L. So 20% is 5.6L; 25% is .7L; 30% is .84L.
Fill the system with water.
Fill the overflow bottle to low mark.
Ride bike on short ride and get to temperature.
Let bike cool. Check and fill overflow bottle to mid level. Ride again to get it up to temp.
Let cool and check bottle level.
Usually 2-3 fillings of the bottle (heat/cool cycles) will fill the system.
When the bottle level remains stable, the system is purged and ready to ride as normal.
Easiest method:
Place large pan under left side of radiator.
Remove lower radiator hose and drain.
Replace hose.
Fill with water (radiator cap), and drain again. Repeat until no color can be seen in coolant.
Drain. and refit hose.
Add correct amount of coolant for the protection you want. The manual says the volume is 2.8L. So 20% is 5.6L; 25% is .7L; 30% is .84L.
Fill the system with water.
Fill the overflow bottle to low mark.
Ride bike on short ride and get to temperature.
Let bike cool. Check and fill overflow bottle to mid level. Ride again to get it up to temp.
Let cool and check bottle level.
Usually 2-3 fillings of the bottle (heat/cool cycles) will fill the system.
When the bottle level remains stable, the system is purged and ready to ride as normal.
FYI....Engine Ice you DO NOT mix. If you decide to use it, follow Dev's directions and dump it in right from the bottle.
Another FYI, manual says the cooling system is 2.8L. It seems that this is wrong. It only took me 1.89L to top the system. It seem to be more like a 2.0L system. See this thread.......http://www.thespeedtriple.com/Forums/index.php?topic=834.0
AP - Did you include the amount that you added to the overflow bottle?
In my case, I have added over 2.0L on two seperate occasions. The block will hold a good amount of fluid. But the manual may be incorrect - it is on many things.
And YES - do not mix Engine Ice or Evans with water. Evans offers a fluid to help flush water from the system.
Personally, I have had better results with water and a surfactant than Engine Ice or Evans. YMMV
In my case, I have added over 2.0L on two seperate occasions. The block will hold a good amount of fluid. But the manual may be incorrect - it is on many things.
And YES - do not mix Engine Ice or Evans with water. Evans offers a fluid to help flush water from the system.
Personally, I have had better results with water and a surfactant than Engine Ice or Evans. YMMV
Yes, It took one full bottle of Ice (1.89L) and that is including the amount in the OF jug just over the min line. I have one more new bottle because I thought I was going to need two. I might run it like this for the season and then flush the system again in the fall. I wondering if I can get a better mix next time. I don't like the fact that it might be watered down now. Do you think it is a big deal?
PG and EG don't mix.APtech77 said:Yes, It took one full bottle of Ice (1.89L) and that is including the amount in the OF jug just over the min line. I have one more new bottle because I thought I was going to need two. I might run it like this for the season and then flush the system again in the fall. I wondering if I can get a better mix next time. I don't like the fact that it might be watered down now. Do you think it is a big deal?
Engine Ice and Evans don't need water, it reduces their effectiveness. But I doubt is it a real issue. This fall, you can drain and add more Engine Ice.
Just for kicks, did you notice a good bit of sand in the coolant when you flushed it the first time?
I did. :-\
HELL YES....it looked like someone went crazy with the pepper shaker. Lots of sandy crap and slime. Small paper like stuff, etc.....
At least you got it out, and didn't let it settle in the radiator tanks and in the head/block. ;D
This is pretty common actually, and not a reflection on Triumph. Now the ricepaper QC "passed" strip in the fuel tank is another issue. :violent1:
This is pretty common actually, and not a reflection on Triumph. Now the ricepaper QC "passed" strip in the fuel tank is another issue. :violent1:
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
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