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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after my long rainy ride back from Road America last weekend I've been noticing my dash doing some crazy shit. On occasion the information on the left side would cycle rapidly for no reason. Now the trip button has been getting hard to use also, and this morning it finally stopped working all together. After consulting the dealer I pulled it apart to check for moisture. Simple process. (Warning - My dealer has no problem with me doing this kind of thing without compromising the warranty - YMMV - Check with your dealer.)

Remove the plastic cover from the back of the gauge cluster. It is held on by studs through rubber grommets and should be able to be gently pulled off.

Back side of gauge exposed:


Remove the plug for the dash and take the bolt out of the bottom (7mm head)
The dash should now be able to be pulled off:



To open the dash remove the six screws in the back of the dash taking care not to strip them.



The dash should now be able to be gently pried open. Take care not to damage the o-ring in the dash.



Dash guts:


From the looks of mine water somehow got in and sat on the switches at the bottom of the dash causing corrosion.

Switches:



Dealer is checking how long it'll be till I get a new one. At least she's still ridable though!
 

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thanks for taking pics and posting. I was wondering how to take the gauges apart. :eboy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Triumph is sending it "next day air" should be able to swap them out Monday!

Dealer wrote "dash broke" under warranty and Triumph said "OK" No questions asked! :drink:
 

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It's been sometime since I've been on here. But this trip button stopped working on my
trip to Key west 2000+ mi in the rain 4000+ in all. So I called some of the suppliers
I use at work. I found a replacement button at Digikey.com. The part # is 450-1642-ND
it looks exactly the same. I removed the old switch and installed the new one and it
toggles thru the trip 1.2 and OD. So it works. If you do this cut the old pins off and
remove the switch. Then heat with a good solder iron (the one I have has a dial I
set the temp to 850F) then pull out the pins. Place the new switch in and solder.
reassemble and ride.
 

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Nice info. :drink:

I know Hockey's trip button is inop. He's been through some heavy rain. I wonder if a pre-emptive strike of corrosionX might be a good winter project. :eboy:
 

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Do you have a pic of the backside of the circuit board?

I'd like to light up all shift LEDs at the same time, instead of the normal one-by-one setup. Or maybe disable stock LEDs and wire a proper shift light above the cluster.
 

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^
don't get all worked up about it. it's a super simple process.

tip: after you pull the old switch off, the molten solder will sometimes close back up in the hole. unless you have a super fine tip soldering gun (i don't), it can be a pain to remove the rest of the solder so that a new switch can be fitted. what you can do is heat up the solder and immediately hit it with a blast of air to blow the solder out the back side of the board. just blowing on it is sufficient...no need for compressed air.
 

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So I opened it up and was trying to remove the switches but am having trouble and don't want to fuck it up. I heated the corners and it was getting liquid but when I move to the next one it solidifies. What is the secret for pulling these bitches off?
 

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Subaruzi said:
So I opened it up and was trying to remove the switches but am having trouble and don't want to fuck it up. I heated the corners and it was getting liquid but when I move to the next one it solidifies. What is the secret for pulling these bitches off?
you can do it with just a regular POS soldering iron. clip the pins on the other side as close as possible to the board. pull up each corner a little bit as you're melting the solder; work your way around the switch. it helps to have the board mounted vertically to something while you're taking the switch off (or have someone hold the board as you're doing the work).
 

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I don't think my soldering iron gets hot enough. I tried for a while last night and it didn't seem to work. I took another approach of wiping it all down and cleaning up the connections with rubbing alcohol and q-tips. Cleaned it all up and wiggled the switches to try and break any further corrosion loose. plugged it in and it seemed to have worked. I am going to put some electrical tape around the seam on the top and sides to try and avoid this happening again.

Will let you all know how it turns out, but it seems fine right now.
 

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Yes, I've found that... You have buy 20pack and pay 12€ for shipping... so 20.30€ for a 0.17€ part :violent1:

Maybe I should call them and ask for cheaper shipping, or just wait when I'm going nearby...


edit: oh, I see. They supply straight(?) from GB warehouse..
 
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