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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, you think the duplicolor high temp paint with ceramic would work on the exhaust pipes? They say it's rated for 1200 deg. You ever measured the temp at the headers?
 

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It works fine - ask Limey. ;D

I have never measured the header temps at full boogie, but I plan on doing it the next run on the dyno. It's hard to measure while riding. ;)

Also, my pipes are ceramic coated, and the outside surface temps are considerably cooler than when stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just got in a infared thermometer today that's good to 1000 deg. I'll take a reading at lunch. I realize the paint won't be as good performance wise as the actual ceramic coating, but should help a little, be more "user friendly", and cost a little less. You said that's what Limey did to his?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
limey said:
I used this stuff. One can per coat, try and get 3 or 4 coats and bake dry if you can.
3 to 4 cans would run about the same price as the stuff Dev used, yeah? About the same amount of work also? Which gives better results?
 

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After you coat/paint the pipes, but a small white circle near the crossover pipes (the hottest location), or the IR thermometer may not give accurate temps on black.

It may be cheaper to use actual ceramic coating IF the paint is expensive.
 
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Ceramic coating is best. I think I paid $6 or so for a can. If the new header from oldsqiud goes to production I will getr the whole lot redone in ceramic for about $200.
 

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IF I can get permission from Bob at Chain Reaction, I will do an article with photos on ceramic coating the Chain Reaction header, mid-pipe, and brackets Satin Black. ;D

I will post some photos of the header progress soon.
 

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The header progress photos are up.

AND I just got the OK to ceramic coat the Chain Reaction mid-pipe. I may wait until I get the custom header and do all at the same time next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Interested in seeing how the customs turn out. Measured header temp right before fan turned on, 5K rpms, in nuetral and got 358 deg F after several readings in different spots. Seems like a long way from 1200.
 

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It is not a two-stroke, 1200 degrees F would be melt-down on these bikes unless they were running WAY too rich. But the bikes do run hotter than 400* F under load, and at higher rpm. It takes over 600*F to color the Stainless pipes gold, or even brown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My pipes are brown, so I know I've been pretty warm, just looking for the best looking, and somewhat cost effective way to coat the pipes. The duplicolor probably isn't all that different than the coatings on the website you listed. When you pulled off your headers, did you have to disconnect the oil lines, or just taking the bolts out gave you enough clearance?
 

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I did not loosen the oil lines on my bike, but Dr. Gallup did.
I only loosened the radiator and oil cooler mounts.

The difference in Duplicolor and Techline is night and day. In fact, Techline Coatings supplies coatings for MANY companies that apply ceramic and other coatings - and some even use the same names. ;)
 

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Roulettetriple said:
My pipes are brown, so I know I've been pretty warm, just looking for the best looking, and somewhat cost effective way to coat the pipes. The duplicolor probably isn't all that different than the coatings on the website you listed. When you pulled off your headers, did you have to disconnect the oil lines, or just taking the bolts out gave you enough clearance?
I suggest you take the oil lines off. I broke my oil cooler and oil line removing/installing the headers with the cooler and lines in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
premier said:
Roulettetriple said:
My pipes are brown, so I know I've been pretty warm, just looking for the best looking, and somewhat cost effective way to coat the pipes. The duplicolor probably isn't all that different than the coatings on the website you listed. When you pulled off your headers, did you have to disconnect the oil lines, or just taking the bolts out gave you enough clearance?
I suggest you take the oil lines off. I broke my oil cooler and oil line removing/installing the headers with the cooler and lines in place.
Yeah, read your previous threads, that sucks. I hope I can get away with just removing the mounting bolts. It won't be for a while though, waiting on the chains exhaust so might be a couple weeks or so.
 

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I suspect but can't prove, that the difference between those who can slip the header out and those who can't is a function of which oil cooler you have. I have the newer, smaller oil cooler and there is no way I was going to get the header out. I think Devi has the bigger oil cooler and he did. Anyone who has tried this please fill in your experience.

It is very simple to take the line off the left side of the cooler. I don't think I lost more than an ounce of oil.
 

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Excellent reasoning Doc, and good catch!

Makes me feel completely stubid... stipud.... DUMB, for completely overlooking the oil cooler differences. :violent1:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'll let you know what I come up with when I get the chains in. I'm sure I have the smaller cooler and there is barely room to get your hand in there. I just didn't want to make too big a mess, but if you say you only took off the left side and only lost an ounce, well then you know an ounce of prevention is worth blah, blah, blah.
 
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