[Devious2xs]

Now you are making me blush. :embarassed:

I just wanted to get you better tuned than you were after the header work. And it didn't cost me anything but a bit of time.

Helping others go faster is its own reward. We need to be able "rip the lungs" out of the Ducati Monsters. LOL

 

[Devious2xs]

Poor bastards!
Or you will be poor soon.

Trust me, I know this illness well.
The smell of race fuel, the sound of a well tuned engine at full song, the sight of smoking rubber... These are the things that fill my dreams. ;D

 

[Devious2xs]

Hey Legman

My Tuneboy is on its way from OZ. I'm getting my lap top tomorrow so should be all go over the weekend. I'm just not sure which tune to use for my bike. Precat out Zard slip on, no DB killer and SAI present...
Milq
I've told a pal with a Huyabusa all about Tuneboy v PC; he's green with envy. Cool for us S3 types, unique bike, loads of street cred. Why ride Japanese??

MH

We can modify an SAI tune (or non-SAI tune - it will simply not turn on the SAI solenoid) to work for you - just like we did for AlaskaS3. We start slow and make changes as you ride the bike and give me feedback. We can get you close this way. PM me for more info.

If you ever decide to get the bike on a dyno in the UK, Tony Woodhouse and TTS are both experienced with Tuneboy and Triumphs. But we can get you close without it.

I really need to work on a Zard equipped bike sometime.

 

[Devious2xs]

It will still need a bit of work.

What Alaska did was just the first step (granted, a big one), for the Zard. It will still need some work.

 

[Devious2xs]

I received an email from TightTL today - he had his bike on the dyno again, with the new tune. I am not going to let the cat out of the bag, but very impressive! :-X

Last year, in the first "how much is enough" thread, many said they would be happy with a given amount of power and torque. It looks like TightTL has reached these numbers. ;D

Well done!

 

[Devious2xs]

Trident half system (with clean up work inside).
Header work (precat removed, porting, ceramic coating, etc.) see threads on header work.
BMC filter
TuneBoy tune - precat removed tune in Download section.


This seems to make this a fairly reliable recipe for 130 hp.

 

[Devious2xs]

CB,
I just haven't seen dyno charts of a Zard breaking 123 hp, that is not to say it can't. I just haven't seen it.




Maybe soon though.

 

[Devious2xs]

TightTL's latest dyno charts with the new tune:

 

[Devious2xs]

Always happy to help an enthusiast.

It looks a bit rich below 5500 rpm, but not bad results for a tune that can be downloaded on this site.

 

[Devious2xs]

... Next, and probably last, will be sending the forks off to Traxxion.com for better springs matched to my weight, syn fork oil, a revalve if necessary and a Penske shock. Then it's off to Summit point for a track day! ...

With a nice ~ 20 hp and 10 ft-lb over stock, and a few suspension mods, it sounds like Fred has the S3 "S" model that Triumph will never build... so he did it himself.

 

[Devious2xs]

What rpm and about what throttle position are you guys having issues with the tune being rich?

When you start the bike, does it smell rich?

I can modify a tune that may work better for you.

I should have a tune specifically for the CRM exhaust developed on the dyno at the end of next week.

 

[Devious2xs]

Based on my testing on these bikes, best cruise mileage will result from allowing the ECU to run closed loop at low throttle positions (AFR 14.5:1 or leaner), with a good bit more ignition advance than stock. Tuning too lean at low or cruise rpm can make the bike jerky to drive, and too much advance with the bike tuned lean can result in mild pre-ignition when the weather turns hot.

Best throttle response and power occur when the AFR is richer (12.8-13.2:1). Or with a leaner tune, and more fuel added to the acceleration cells in the map.

You can run leaner cruise mapping, and add fuel in the acceleration circuits (the L tables) to prevent the lean hesitation. Then run better power mapping at larger throttle positions than cruise. If the mapping is too rich, the acceleration is greatly reduced and the engine slightly bogs with sudden input of throttle. You are better off with the bike tuned a bit lean than a bit rich for best engine response. You need to get a feel for the difference between a lean hesitation and a rich bog - even when tuning with wideband sensors.

The stock map is very lean at cruise. The difference between running cruise AFR at 14.5:1 and at 12.8:1 is fairly large, and can easily drop mpg. As you make more power (flowing more air), the same AFR uses more fuel, but the roll-on power is substantially better than stock.

The use of the stock midpipe may result in your bike wanting considerably less full than other bikes with better flowing midpipes. The use of a low mount silencer may reduce the fuel the engine wants at cruise and low rpm. Sprocket changes will alter the rpm/throttle position you cruise at - making your bike want different tuning for best mileage than one with stock gearing. All of this is more reason for specific tuning for each modification.

On my bike, I have tuned a map for cruise mpg, and another for power and driveability (switching maps takes only a few minutes). The cruise mileage between the two maps is about 4 mpg. I have not had a chance to test the differences in roll-on with an accurate accelerometer, but the difference is very noticeable.

Early on, I also noticed a difference in mileage of about 1 mpg better when using lower octane fuel than when using premium. Using regular fuel (87 octane R+M/2) with the fuel additive gets considerably better mileage than when using premium fuel on its own.

 

[Devious2xs]

HarriS,
That is nearly exactly what I do. You still need to look at the plugs and burn pattern on the pistons using a bore scope, or pulling the head. This is where a good map becomes a great map.

My cruise map has the same tuning (as my power map) above 70% throttle and is morphed at 50-60% throttle.

My power map is richer in coast down, and the throttle response when you whack the throttle at cruise IS better, by being richer.

The problem with many tuners, is they overlook tuning high rpm, low throttle positions. If you run at speed/rpm, and then drop the throttle entering a turn, the bike goes very lean - leaner than the AFR and gas analysis actually shows, because the compression braking makes it look richer than the cylinder actually is. If you add fuel here, the tops of the bores get lightly washed and cooled. If you don't, the bores, rings, and exhaust valve guides wear quickly. It cuts into your mileage, but is well worth it IMHO.

Having a street (cruise) map, and a separate tune for riding the twisties and track is easy with TuneEdit. ;D

 

[Devious2xs]

We need to wire an USB socket to the side of the bike and have ability to upload tune from a mobile phone on s60 platform. That way we don't need to carry the laptop or remove the seat to switch tunes

Let me know how it works on your bike. It is a great idea.

 

[Devious2xs]

Pretty cool for 21 year old technology.

P.S. My mpg readings (previous post) are based on what the computer tells me. I've changed it from the imperial whatever to gallons. My odometer is dead on, so unless the speedometer's way off, I assume the mpg calculator is correct.

having dealt with TunedPort Chevies, I am going to keep my mouth closed.

Bike ECUs are no where as smart as automotive stuff. The speed sensor is in the trans, and is a simple calculation in the gauge. The ECU has nothing to do with it.

The speedometer is off 6.5-7%, the mpg reading on the display is a fantasy. Measure your gas and calculate your mileage based on the odometer.