[kartstar]

Does not matter as far as the ECU is concerned whether you disconnected the battery power to the gauges. The tune map will not be affected. Have you gotten it out on the road and done a few high-rpm runs to clean out the cobwebs? Also, if you have the map for a catted bike, but have no cat, that will affect your operation quite a bit - and if you haven't personally removed the SAI system and you bought the bike new, it's still on there.

Try the 20088base_dyno39pp map in the downloads. It works really well for a starting point.

 

[crashmasterd]

I only get 33.1 while cruising 80-90 on the highway. So, hopefully you're not too far off (because then I would be too!)

Some of these jokers are claiming 40 day-in-day-out. My 37 was on a 300 mile trip that I carefully kept it at about 65. Just to see.

I guess if I could keep it out of triple digits it would help. Ton Up!

 

[AlaskaS3]

My baby wants to run.

 

[kartstar]

Some of these jokers are claiming 40 day-in-day-out. My 37 was on a 300 mile trip that I carefully kept it at about 65. Just to see.

I guess if I could keep it out of triple digits it would help. Ton Up!

Amen to that. I just posted my all-time worst tankful: 78 miles to the low fuel light! I put in probably 60 of those miles at 90-100 mph, which may not be smart, but it sure was fun! I don't even know how you managed to keep it at 65 - governor??

 

[Guest]

I only get 33.1 while cruising 80-90 on the highway. So, hopefully you're not too far off (because then I would be too!)

Some of these jokers are claiming 40 day-in-day-out. My 37 was on a 300 mile trip that I carefully kept it at about 65. Just to see.

I commute 145 miles a day, four days per week at 85-90mph constant. It's flat interstate, but I consistently get 45-47 mpg. Around town I get 37. Top speed so far, 115 ;D

 

[crashmasterd]

Amen to that. I just posted my all-time worst tankful: 78 miles to the low fuel light! I put in probably 60 of those miles at 90-100 mph, which may not be smart, but it sure was fun! I don't even know how you managed to keep it at 65 - governor??

Actually traffic helped. I got behind a slowpoke and just refused to pass him. I do have an iron will when I have to...

I commute 145 miles a day, four days per week at 85-90mph constant. It's flat interstate, but I consistently get 45-47 mpg. Around town I get 37. Top speed so far, 115 ;D

See? SEE? There just has to be something that varies on these bikes. Head ports or something. I can't imagine it's the FI tune or exhaust or anything. Any ideas? Combustion chamber issues? Throttle body?

Of course I usually hit 112 MPH before I even reach the Interstate. Then I slow it down to a reasonable 90 or so. Unless the cops are out.
:squid:

86LG4T5, that is by the math method isn't it? You can't trust the trip computer. Mine still tells me I'm getting 45 MPG or so, even though it IS set to US gallons and miles.

 

[AlaskaS3]

I don't know, It could be that our tunes ARE throwing much more fuel down our lovely motor's throats.

I'm not too concerned about it. It would nice to have more range, but if it comes at the expense of power, forget it. I'm curious what will happen if CB ever gets down to Dev's to make a map.

 

[cheapbastard]

I'm curious what will happen if CB ever gets down to Dev's to make a map.

just got the word, looks like it will prolly be next weekend. ;D

 

[AlaskaS3]

Hooray!

 

[kartstar]

I commute 145 miles a day, four days per week at 85-90mph constant. It's flat interstate, but I consistently get 45-47 mpg. Around town I get 37. Top speed so far, 115 ;D

There it is right there - my 78 mile tank was on a high-speed sweeper run, constantly shifting up & down, running up to redline at close to full throttle in every gear - grinnin' ;D

85-90 mph constant cruise is prolly only 10% throttle in sixth.

 

[HarriS]

I'm not too concerned about it. It would nice to have more range, but if it comes at the expense of power, forget it.

No it doesn't. Too rich drops power as well as too lean.

I got much crisper trottle response and part throttle performance by leaning the tune at part throttle.

 

[Devious2xs]

Based on my testing on these bikes, best cruise mileage will result from allowing the ECU to run closed loop at low throttle positions (AFR 14.5:1 or leaner), with a good bit more ignition advance than stock. Tuning too lean at low or cruise rpm can make the bike jerky to drive, and too much advance with the bike tuned lean can result in mild pre-ignition when the weather turns hot.

Best throttle response and power occur when the AFR is richer (12.8-13.2:1). Or with a leaner tune, and more fuel added to the acceleration cells in the map.

You can run leaner cruise mapping, and add fuel in the acceleration circuits (the L tables) to prevent the lean hesitation. Then run better power mapping at larger throttle positions than cruise. If the mapping is too rich, the acceleration is greatly reduced and the engine slightly bogs with sudden input of throttle. You are better off with the bike tuned a bit lean than a bit rich for best engine response. You need to get a feel for the difference between a lean hesitation and a rich bog - even when tuning with wideband sensors.

The stock map is very lean at cruise. The difference between running cruise AFR at 14.5:1 and at 12.8:1 is fairly large, and can easily drop mpg. As you make more power (flowing more air), the same AFR uses more fuel, but the roll-on power is substantially better than stock.

The use of the stock midpipe may result in your bike wanting considerably less full than other bikes with better flowing midpipes. The use of a low mount silencer may reduce the fuel the engine wants at cruise and low rpm. Sprocket changes will alter the rpm/throttle position you cruise at - making your bike want different tuning for best mileage than one with stock gearing. All of this is more reason for specific tuning for each modification.

On my bike, I have tuned a map for cruise mpg, and another for power and driveability (switching maps takes only a few minutes). The cruise mileage between the two maps is about 4 mpg. I have not had a chance to test the differences in roll-on with an accurate accelerometer, but the difference is very noticeable.

Early on, I also noticed a difference in mileage of about 1 mpg better when using lower octane fuel than when using premium. Using regular fuel (87 octane R+M/2) with the fuel additive gets considerably better mileage than when using premium fuel on its own.

 

[HarriS]

On my bike, I have tuned a map for cruise mpg, and another for power and driveability (switching maps takes only a few minutes). The cruise mileage between the two maps is about 4 mpg. I have not had a chance to test the differences in roll-on with an accurate accelerometer, but the difference is very noticeable.

My philosophy is to tune the engine for both worlds. Small throttle openings/load for good cruise economy and not fouling the plugs with soot and the rest for max power. The great thing with fuel injection is that the different areas can be tuned individually without overlapping of different carb circuits.

I have always liked to tune the naturally aspirated engines slightly on the lean side for crisper throttle response. By lean side I do not mean piston burning lean but on the lean side of the best power range of 12.8-13.2 A/F.

The most important thing is that the engine feels good to ride. Linear power,good torque, crisp part throttle, good response etc. If the engine is tuned for max dyno power but smells rich or feels sluggish will satisfy the rider on dyno shootouts only. I always tune the part throttle seat of the pants and full throttle on dyno. Long road compared to Dynojet TuningLink etc. but satisfying in the end.

 

[Devious2xs]

HarriS,
That is nearly exactly what I do. You still need to look at the plugs and burn pattern on the pistons using a bore scope, or pulling the head. This is where a good map becomes a great map.

My cruise map has the same tuning (as my power map) above 70% throttle and is morphed at 50-60% throttle.

My power map is richer in coast down, and the throttle response when you whack the throttle at cruise IS better, by being richer.

The problem with many tuners, is they overlook tuning high rpm, low throttle positions. If you run at speed/rpm, and then drop the throttle entering a turn, the bike goes very lean - leaner than the AFR and gas analysis actually shows, because the compression braking makes it look richer than the cylinder actually is. If you add fuel here, the tops of the bores get lightly washed and cooled. If you don't, the bores, rings, and exhaust valve guides wear quickly. It cuts into your mileage, but is well worth it IMHO.

Having a street (cruise) map, and a separate tune for riding the twisties and track is easy with TuneEdit. ;D

 

[premier]

We need to wire an USB socket to the side of the bike and have ability to upload tune from a mobile phone on s60 platform. That way we don't need to carry the laptop or remove the seat to switch tunes

 

[Devious2xs]

We need to wire an USB socket to the side of the bike and have ability to upload tune from a mobile phone on s60 platform. That way we don't need to carry the laptop or remove the seat to switch tunes

Let me know how it works on your bike. It is a great idea.

 

[Guest]

I haven't looked at the tuneboy software (mine's completely stock), but since these bikes have a speed sensor, I wonder if it's possible to create a map that changes depending on speed. That's how the old Tuned Port Injection computers worked. There's a "highway mode", so you can set it to, say 75mph. And anytime you're above that speed AND throttle position sensor is less than 20% open, it changes to super lean, like 15.5:1 or something. On the TPI's it's turned off, due to the epa saying that lean settings cause more ozone or something. But with a laptop you can switch it right back on. Pretty cool for 21 year old technology.

P.S. My mpg readings (previous post) are based on what the computer tells me. I've changed it from the imperial whatever to gallons. My odometer is dead on, so unless the speedometer's way off, I assume the mpg calculator is correct.

 

[premier]

We need to wire an USB socket to the side of the bike and have ability to upload tune from a mobile phone on s60 platform. That way we don't need to carry the laptop or remove the seat to switch tunes

Let me know how it works on your bike. It is a great idea.

The problem is that we would need a s60 version of tune-edit or at least some upload software. Wayne needs to step up!

 

[Devious2xs]

Pretty cool for 21 year old technology.

P.S. My mpg readings (previous post) are based on what the computer tells me. I've changed it from the imperial whatever to gallons. My odometer is dead on, so unless the speedometer's way off, I assume the mpg calculator is correct.

having dealt with TunedPort Chevies, I am going to keep my mouth closed.

Bike ECUs are no where as smart as automotive stuff. The speed sensor is in the trans, and is a simple calculation in the gauge. The ECU has nothing to do with it.

The speedometer is off 6.5-7%, the mpg reading on the display is a fantasy. Measure your gas and calculate your mileage based on the odometer.

 

[crashmasterd]

P.S. My mpg readings (previous post) are based on what the computer tells me.  I've changed it from the imperial whatever to gallons.  My odometer is dead on, so unless the speedometer's way off, I assume the mpg calculator is correct.

Bike ECUs are no where as smart as automotive stuff. The speed sensor is in the trans, and is a simple calculation in the gauge. The ECU has nothing to do with it.

The speedometer is off 6.5-7%, the mpg reading on the display is a fantasy. Measure your gas and calculate your mileage based on the odometer.

What he said.

Trip computer = 45 MPG
Calculated Odometer/gallons = 32 MPG

That's no 7% error, (29%) and it's based on the same data that comes from the speedo sensor either way.