That's what has been in mine since new,apart from the break in oil.Everything seems to be fine but i know once she's out of warrnaty i wikk be running Penrite semi synthetic(Australian oil)Have done this in all my previous bikes and have been able to notice the difference,ie smoother gear changes,and overall just seems to run better. :wave:
Double Ester oil
Has anyone ever used, or know about motul, double ester motor oil. I'am thinking of using it because the mobil 1 i need is impossible to find around here. Seems to be the future of high performance synthetic oils. 15-50, especially made for wet clutches and a K&N oil filter. Instead of relying on viscosity to cling to mating parts there are Positive and Negative charged molecules that cling to mating parts even when not being pumped as it were. Not trying to start another lame oil thread about what everybody uses, just wonderin if anybody knows about this stuff. Expensive, like 12 bucks a quart. 300V 4T Factory Line 15W50
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If that really is the case, then they would stick to each other and coagulate the oil.itchin said:Instead of relying on viscosity to cling to mating parts there are Positive and Negative charged molecules that cling to mating parts even when not being pumped as it were.
Isn't coagulate when milk goes bad?HarriS said:If that really is the case, then they would stick to each other and coagulate the oil.itchin said:Instead of relying on viscosity to cling to mating parts there are Positive and Negative charged molecules that cling to mating parts even when not being pumped as it were.
Most organic compounds are non-polar, which is why oil and water don't mix. Esters have a non-polar component and a polar component, making them soluble with a variety of other compounds. They also tend to have improved 'sheeting' properties, meaning they leave a film behind. In other words, a thin film of this type of oil stays on the cylinder wall long after you've shut the engine down.
Thanks Billt, thats what i was looking for. So, are they better than non-ester synthetics, as in worth 12 bucks a quart? The esters i was looking at were the Motul 15-50, the maxxim 15-50, and Aslin 15-50 as recommended by Devious2xs, whos opinion i value. You seem to know a thing or two about it so what ya think?
Double ester oils are probably the best thing on the market now, but any major brand full synthetic should protect your engine for 6000 miles, and a semi-synthetic for at least 3000 miles.
As for me, I put Mobil 1 in Speedy, with a K&N filter (safety wired to the drain plug).
I posted an article a while ago from a guy who wrote a really good piece about oil, and he recommended Shell Rotella 'T' fully synthetic - available at most Wal-Marts for under $20 a gallon. The important thing is not to use 'energy conserving' oil (additives could cause clutch slippage), get the right viscosity index, and make sure its got the latest API rating (SL or later)
Also, the filter is the same as the small filter most companies (Fram, Wix, Purolator, K&N) make for the Mazda V6.
I think my next filter may be the K&N (I think #1009) for the Mazda. It's about an inch longer, and still has the safety-wireable nut on the end for easy removal, and is about $5 cheaper, because its not a motorcycle filter.
As for me, I put Mobil 1 in Speedy, with a K&N filter (safety wired to the drain plug).
I posted an article a while ago from a guy who wrote a really good piece about oil, and he recommended Shell Rotella 'T' fully synthetic - available at most Wal-Marts for under $20 a gallon. The important thing is not to use 'energy conserving' oil (additives could cause clutch slippage), get the right viscosity index, and make sure its got the latest API rating (SL or later)
Also, the filter is the same as the small filter most companies (Fram, Wix, Purolator, K&N) make for the Mazda V6.
I think my next filter may be the K&N (I think #1009) for the Mazda. It's about an inch longer, and still has the safety-wireable nut on the end for easy removal, and is about $5 cheaper, because its not a motorcycle filter.
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