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Discussion Starter #1
I know I have asked elsewhere and the loud clunk when shifting to first is normal. Just want to confirm it really should be that loud. And also once in gear you can shift in and out of neutral and first extremely quietly as long as you don’t let out the clutch in neutral.
Checked the clutch and does not seem to be any abnormal amount of drag on the clutch when.
When it is warm and I wait 20-30 seconds with clutch in and in neutral before dropping into first it is smooth at least 50% of the time
Just feels extremely harsh compared to Japanese transmissions


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Sounds pretty normal to me.
How long you had the bike? How long since the last oil change?
The gearbox is agricultural compared a Suzuki, and marginally worse than a Kawasaki.
That said, the clunkiness gets worse the higher the mileage on your oil.
An oil change often smoothes out the gearbox in these.

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Discussion Starter #3
I have had the bike a couple years about to change the oil again. If anything it is slightly quieter once the bike warms up. But is has always done this
I have also found if I keep it in neutral with clutch in and put slight resistance on the gear shift in the direction of first. Not enough for the dogs to hit but enough to put some pressure on the shift fork. If I do this and wait about 20 seconds before completing the shift you can almost not even hear the gear change.
But I think that is just a way to get the speed of the slipping neutral transmission to slow down for the gear change. Same works if I am rolling about walking speed before the shift.
So this may just be the design, but they could have made it smoother if that is the case. It ain’t a Harley where the customers wanted the clank of an old HD tranny so they had to engineer the new ones it that way.


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It can be improved, and there are a number of factors that can affect how bad it is.

My S3 had a huge clunk that got so bad that it became difficult finding first.
2007 S3, 40k Miles. Clutch Dragging issue - RESOLVED | Triumph Speed Triple Forums (thespeedtriple.com)

There are several potential causes. As noted, the gearbox is a bit clunky to begin with, but that doesn't mean you have to accept the pinions slamming into each other. Factors:
-Plates not getting enough/correct oil (The 06 has a lifter pin that doesn't allow adequate oil to the plates, and I've read that the clutch doesn't care for full synth, but I am running that now just fine), the pin can be filed or replaced with T1171234
-Basket geometry, specifically the basket bearing can wear, causing the basket to sag, pushing the friction plates out of being coplanar with the steels. This bearing cannot be bought from Triumph, but there's a Honda part in the linked thread that can be sourced.
-Basket/drum fingers worn. over time grooves wear in these from the plates/steels, which can prevent them from 'floating' in the assembly. The Haynes manual suggests that some degree of filing on these parts is acceptable, but doesn't provide a spec. I used a very light touch just to knock down any serious raised areas on mine, and some light dremelling with a wire wheel to clean up the troughs.
-Later versions of the steels had oil retention dimples to further mitigate sticking.
-The Haynes manual also suggests that the total plate steel stack up should not exceed (IIRC) 50.37mm. It suggests that an additional 'thin' steel can be used, if this is the case.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I may look into replacing the lift pin. Pretty much looked at all the other things you mentioned. I do notice some binding on the lift pin/pin bearing during reassembly before the springs are tightened. If I rotate the outer facing of the clutch onto different studs it gets better or worse. There is one position out of all five that doesn’t have any binding. So maybe the pin has some deflection in it. Did notice each time I go i to the clutch the plates seem pretty dry for a wet clutch


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