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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know the manual says to change the oil after 500 mi. but I looked at it after 100 mi. and it was very thick and dark grey, no doubt from metal shavings as the engine "cut it's first teeth". My question is was yours this way? And if so; did you leave it in there? I didn't. I now have about 750 mi. and I'm considering changing it again.
Thanks,
D
PS Oil is too damn expensive!
 

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Despite what the manual suggests, I am a huge proponent of frequent oil changes during brake in - the first 200 miles are critical for removing metallic particles.

In my first 200 miles, I changed oil 4 times. Then every 500 miles after that, until 2000 miles.

Others feel differently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Devious! I'm soooo glad I didn't leave that SHIT in there. I'll change it again this weekend. :drink:
 

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What kind of oil did you use on your first oil change?

I have been checking the oil color every 75-100 miles and I just noticed the oil is starting to darken at 290 miles.

Would you recomend a semi synthtic or a full synthetic for a 300 mile oil change?

What about the 500 mile oil change?
 

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you are fine with good mineral oil during those running in miles.

usually oil filter collects those shavings, they are not usually floating in there.


what i consider good is that triumph has these 1000km first services. some cars have 30000km oil change intervals with no first oil change. so they just have the shavings and new engine stuff in there the whole time during those 30000km's, but if the filter works and it's big enough, it should hold them secure.

JT
 

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Jaket said:
you are fine with good mineral oil during those running in miles.

usually oil filter collects those shavings, they are not usually floating in there.


what i consider good is that triumph has these 1000km first services. some cars have 30000km oil change intervals with no first oil change. so they just have the shavings and new engine stuff in there the whole time during those 30000km's, but if the filter works and it's big enough, it should hold them secure.

JT
The problem is that a large amount of oil contaminants never make it to the filter. Oil that is pucked up in the sump gets filtered and then pumped through the system feeding bearings, cams, splashed on the valve train etc. But a lot of the contaminants drop to the bottom of the sump and only get sucked into the oil pick up when the oil is severely agitated - and then a large amount of them are run through the pump and filter in clumps. Or they get flung up under the pistons and on the cylinder walls by windage. None of this is good for the engine.

If these particles ARE pulled into the oil system when the filters bypass is open, the metallic debris can become embedded in the bearing surfaces and scour anything they come into contact with. Some filter designs allow the bypass to open more frequently that you would imagine.

Frequent oil changes during break in is very important. I cannot stress this enough.
 

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I have heard (from a Finnish magazine who visited Hincley factory) that they drain the oil at the factory after test run. This means the engine already has second set of oil in when it leaves showroom. the test run oil is filtered and re-used at the factory.
 

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HarriS said:
I have heard (from a Finnish magazine who visited Hincley factory) that they drain the oil at the factory after test run. This means the engine already has second set of oil in when it leaves showroom. the test run oil is filtered and re-used at the factory.
The bikes are run in and drained for shipping, the dealer adds oil during set up. As far as I know, every manufacturer does this.

IMHO this is only a good starting point, and the first 200 miles are critical. Check the oil yourself, and you will find metallic debris and carbon in the oil within just a few miles. More than enough to be an issue.
 

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If my memory serves, the oil did not look very bad at first change. More like normal. On the other hand the coolant was chrystal clear after three years also, not muddy and cruddy/rusty like many have stated. Same thing with fork oil, brake fluid, fork oil, rear hub etc at the 20000km service.

Frequent oil changes at break in does not make any harm, more like it is good for the engine. On the other hand one should not panic he ruined the engine if he follows the factory recommendation and changes the oil at 800km.
 

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HarriS said:
If my memory serves, the oil did not look very bad at first change. More like normal. On the other hand the coolant was chrystal clear after three years also, not muddy and cruddy/rusty like many have stated. Same thing with fork oil, brake fluid, fork oil, rear hub etc at the 20000km service.

Frequent oil changes at break in does not make any harm, more like it is good for the engine. On the other hand one should not panic he ruined the engine if he follows the factory recommendation and changes the oil at 800km.
All true. Everyone has slightly different results.
My oil was murky at 26 miles, and each change until it sealed up.

Most today swap bikes too often to worry about the difference in lifespan. But you only get one chance to do this right. You can't later whine why someone else's bike runs better or last longer if they paid more attention to the needs of the engine.
 

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Notice the black from carbon and unburned fuel blowing past rings, and metallic particles in oil from DDjones at 23 miles before first owner oil change, and then again at 101 miles:


 

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Devious said:
Most today swap bikes too often to worry about the difference in lifespan. But you only get one chance to do this right. You can't later whine why someone else's bike runs better or last longer if they paid more attention to the needs of the engine.
My bike runs just fine thanks ;D. propably will last a long time too. I will trade it when a better bike comes into market. Had to keep the Bandit 1200 for seven years before the 1050 S3 showed up...
 

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Devi,
Do they "run them in" under load on the bench?
Agree on the oil, it is cheap and easy to change.

AA
 

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AA said:
Devi,
Do they "run them in" under load on the bench?
Agree on the oil, it is cheap and easy to change.

AA
I have no proof that they do, but if they do not, they would be the only manufacturer that does not. Why is there oil remains in the engine when unpacked, and not just assembly lube? Ask your dealer about it.
 

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Devious said:
AA said:
Devi,
Do they "run them in" under load on the bench?
Agree on the oil, it is cheap and easy to change.

AA
I have no proof that they do, but if they do not, they would be the only manufacturer that does not. Why is there oil remains in the engine when unpacked, and not just assembly lube? Ask your dealer about it.
They run the bikes on rollers to check engine, gearbox and brake operation but not sure about loading. They say they run it up to 70mph.
 
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