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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all, the site is broken down into many catagories to help keep different subjects easy to locate. The SEARCH function works very well. Please use this before asking questions.

The factory service manual is available online from several sources. Your bike SHOULD have come with an owner’s manual. Both are great sources of information – read them (RTFM).

This site has a wealth of information available on it. The Speed Triple community is small, and tends to be helpful, but full of hooligans of all ages. Do not be afraid to ask questions, but some of them become repetitive. If you ask a question that has been answered in this FAQ, the SuperThread, or easily available on the search function, Itchin and others may get rowdy – especially before they have had their daily coffee.
;)
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Fuel – The stock bike runs fine on 89 octane (R+M/2), 94-95 RON.

Fuel tank - If your fuel tank sucks air when you open it, the air and fuel drain lines have been put on incorrectly. This can cause starting problems and can damage the tank and fuel pump. Remove the tank and make sure the line with the disc valve is on the outside (left side). And make sure the lines are not kinked.
When you put the tank back on, move it as far forward as possible, and make sure the seat has the little pads on it to prevent scratching the tank.
If you notice something floating in the tank, it is likely a small piece of rice paper with "QC Passed" or similar written on it. This is normal. If you want another one, let me know, I will send you the one I removed.

Suspension/Ride - If the suspension is too hard or soft, the dealer likely didn't set the bike up correctly. Take it back to them and tell them to do it right - especially if you paid a set up fee.

Throttle slack - If the throttle moves a good bit before the throttle begins to open, take the bike to your dealer, and tell them to adjust it properly - especially if you paid a set up fee.

Headlights - If you cannot see well at night, you headlights are likely not adjusted correctly for best coverage. This only requires loosening the mounts and re-aiming them for better coverage.

Shift lights - The gear change lights can be set to flash at different RPMs - RTFM.

MPG display - Not all S3s have the miles per gallon readout set to US gallons and miles. Some came here (to the U.S) set for kilometers and imperial gallons. To check/change it , do this:hold down all three buttons with the ignition on, but engine not running. Then you can select km, miles & UK gallons or miles & US gallons. In the US the setting you want is #3, miles per hour and US gallons.

Tach - The tach reads HIGH at high rpm. The stock rev limit is 9450 rpm, but this will be indicated by nearly 10,500 rpm.

Speedometer - The stock 1050 Speedometer is off by 6.5% to 7%, but can be corrected with TuneEdit.

Mirrors – Many find that the CRG Hindsite or LaneSplitter units work well. When removing the stock mirrors, the bolt holes are 10mm x 1.25 pitch. The bolts from www.diskbrakeadapters.com work well – specify black when ordering.

Oil – The manufacturer's recommended oil is synthetic Mobile One 4T – 15w-50. Changing your oil requires 3.2 liters including the filter, or 3.0L if you fill the filter first. The sump crush gasket is 14mm and can be bought at any autoparts store for around 50 cents or less. Use whatever oil you want – a very subjective and touchy subject.

Oil filters – Some are better than others. There are already several really good threads on the subject – including after-market alternatives and part numbers. The new filter goes on hand tight (10Nm), and the sump plug should be torque to 25 NM - the manual is wrong.

Spark plugs – The stock plug is NGK CR9EK. There are other options mentioned in other threads. The plug wells tend to hold water, resulting in corroded plugs that do not fire well. A little anti-corosion spray goes a long way. If you bike suddenly starts running rough, check the plugs.

Exhaust – TORS = Triumph Off Road Silencers and tune. they look like stock silencers, but make around 5 hp more. There are MANY exhaust companies offering everything from slip-on replacement silencers, half systems with larger mid-pipes, or full systems with a new header.

SAI – Secondary Air Injection. A system that pulls air from the airbox into the exhaust in order to dilute and help burn the unburned gases. It is also the source for the exhaust popping when decelerating. Removing it, does not make more power, it just stops the noise, and makes tuning a bit easier.

Wheel bolts - The rear wheel bolt is 46mm. The front is 22mm. There are MANY sources for the required tools.

Air filters – The stock filter filters best. Aftermarket parts are available from BMC, K&N, and DNA.

Chain lube – There are MANY different lubes, use what you feel best about. If you bike siddenly starts making strange noises, try lubricating the chain.

Tuning – It takes fuel AND air to make power. The stock mapping leaves a lot to be desired. Power Commander and TuneBoy offer the ability to tune your bike.

Mileage – Most members report, at cruise, close to 40 mpg US; 48 mpg Imperial; 17 km/l; 5.88 L/100km.

Bike Weight - Wet weight is 460-470 pounds (210-214 kg) - dependng on the amount of fuel in the bike.

Brakes - The thread size of the bleed nipples on the Nissin calipers is M8x1.25 (thanks Jukka!)

1050 Fork Seals - Showa fork seal 43x54x11 kit 053 - Link part number 33 129 27 (thanks Intfit!)

Many details can be found in the SuperThread - http://www.thespeedtriple.com/Forums/index.php?topic=1682.0
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thread unlocked - please add content at your will.
 

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:drink: :drink: :drink:

Devious2xs said:
Use whatever oil you want – a very subjective and touchy subject.
:drink: :drink: :drink:
 

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Devious2xs said:
First of all, the site is broken down into many catagories to help keep different subjects easy to locate. The SEARCH function works very well. Please use this before asking questions.

Oil – The manufacturer's recommended oil is Mobile One 4T – 15w-50. Changing your oil requires 3.2 liters including the filter, or 3.0L if you fill the filter first. The sump crush gasket is 14mm and can be bought at any autoparts store for around 50 cents or less. Use whatever oil you want – a very subjective and touchy subject.



Don't fuckin ask anybody else which oil is best....you'll get many different opinions, and end up none the wiser. If you ask this question Itchin ain't the only one who'll get a bit rowdy! :horse:
 

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In metric system the MPG numbers are usually in different format. Instead of kilometres/litre it's litres/100km. That's how the speedo shows it too.
 

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Oil – The manufacturer's recommended oil is Mobile One 4T – 15w-50. Changing your oil requires 3.2 liters including the filter, or 3.0L if you fill the filter first.

Note: the manual recommends either 15W50 OR 10W40.

Also, for all of us yankees out there, 3.0 liters = 3.17 quarts, 3.2 Liters = 3.38 quarts, 3.5 liters = 3.70 quarts
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
KarmaPunk said:
Note: the manual recommends either 15W50 OR 10W40.
There have been MANY updates to items in the manual that are wrong. One of these is the 10w-40 oil. Ask your dealer to see the service update bulletins.
 

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Really, the past 2 oil changes I did myself has been with Mobil 1 4T 10w40 motorcycle oil and I haven't had any problems.

Lamins question, whats the diference? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
40 weight does not tend to last as long as 50 wt. The temperatures and clearances in the engine dictate what oil you should use. You can get away with lighter oils if you change them more frequently.
 

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1050 Ignition/Key switch and steering head lock: This is held onto the upper triple clamp with what appears to be rivets at first glance...they are NOT rivets, they are called 'breakaway screws". When tightened during bike assembly, the head simply breaks off so they can't be easily tampered with. You could drill them out, but it will take awhile and the following is much easier.

To remove them simply take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and make slots in the portion that is visible (not much room, a partly worn wheel fits best) and then use a screw driver to remove. Replace with socket head cap screws of appropriate thread size and pitch. The switch portion is also attached to the steering lock by similar screws and can be removed in the same fashion.
 
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I inquired at my local dealer about oil and they stated that using a synthetic blend as well is safe for your bike as well . Currently I am running Belray 20w50 blend and it's running great . I am keeping an eye on it just in case and so far all's well. Just in case full synthetic isn't available or you're just short on cash it WILL work.
 

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Devious said:
Tach - The tach reads low at high rpm. The stock rev limit is 9450 rpm, but this will be indicated by nearly 10,500 rpm.
maybe i misunderstand your wording, but doesn't this mean the tach reads high at high rpm?
i mean if the rev limit is at 9450, but the tach indicates 10,500 that would be reading high, not low..

also, this number is for which model S3? i presume the rev limit is quite different from the 955 model VS the 1050 model..
 

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Genuine Triumph Fatbars info.

I've seen the question asked a few times. "Are the Triumph Fatbars exactly the same bend as the stock ones?" So I shot these photos before installation.

The bend is exactly the same, but the fatbars are approx. 30mm (1 1/4") longer overall. However the extra length is designed to stick OUTSIDE the handgrips. I've got no idea why they done this!
There are plastic nipples inside the switch gear (and throttle asssembly) which fit into holes in the handlebars, which position them the same distance apart (and angle) on both the fatbars and the stock bars. If you broke them off (which plenty of people do) I guess it would be possible to move them out to the ends of the Fatbars if you wanted.

The standard bar ends fit the Genuine triumph fatbars.

The Fatbars are considerably lighter than the stock bars (Alloy V's Steel)

The stock bar risers position the bars in the centreline of the risers. The Fatbar risers position the Bars OFF-CENTRE by approximately 10mm or 12mm ( 1/2" ish). Triumph recomends mounting the bars forward but they fit just as well the other way if you want to reduce reach distance to the bars.





Edited to show pics
Thanks to whoever fixed the links, Intfit.
 
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