Go for a Zard. Cheaper sounds better. Has the option of DB killer in or out and if you go for slip on can be converted back in 5 mins.
MH
MH
The problem is that no one has posted a dyno chart for a Zard slip-on with or without header work.jlzmeehan said:I would go with the slip on Zard and modify your existing header.From the posts I've seen you will end up with better results than a full aftermarket system.You will save some money too.Do a search and compare dyno charts.I'm pretty sure the info is out there.I was surprised.
Good point.Devious2xs said:The problem is that no one has posted a dyno chart for a Zard slip-on with or without header work.jlzmeehan said:I would go with the slip on Zard and modify your existing header.From the posts I've seen you will end up with better results than a full aftermarket system.You will save some money too.Do a search and compare dyno charts.I'm pretty sure the info is out there.I was surprised.
we might just have to solve that problem in the upcoming month or so.Devious2xs said:The problem is that no one has posted a dyno chart for a Zard slip-on with or without header work.
speedy1050 said:Hi Monkeyhanger,
Thanks for the advice. I'd be very keen to hear the Zard in person. I'm just a bit worried it has a slightly whistley or chirpey note to it. The custom underseat (MV rip off) exhaust I had made for my '02 seemed to sound very similar and it got a bit annoying after a while. I'm chasing a quite mellow, deep, bassy type of note. Don't really like the raspy sound others go for or the popping on overrun. I also love the look of the Arrow to be honest.
The other option I'm seriously considering is just having the stock cans gutted and a standard perforated core with fibreglass packing added.
The third option I've thought of is bodging a set of those gorgeous new Akropovic hexagonal carbon jobs into place. Not sure how the bike would run with them though.
I guess I should wait until I actually get the bike though.... ;-)
Phil