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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:repost:


Hey folks looking for some BTDT's

Cost on Factory Head Stock Bearing Tool? Part number T3880300

I tried in vain to remove the Headstock top nut with some 45deg pliers, gave up after the first attempt in not wanting to mar up the holes to much.

Can someone give some insight on removal without the factory tool?

Seems someone has forced the head stock to need a slight readjustment, not notched but has backed itself off it would seem. I dont know who would have caused that....

Any BTDT's would be appreciated. Only experience is dirt bikes and not sure it applies directly to the street versions.

Thanks,

-Jim
 

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You can make one easy enough, or you can try an angle grinder disc spanner. The type with two pins in them. One type is very close to fitting the holes.

If that fails use a chisel and beat the crap out of it :horse: :horse: :horse: :horse:
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
*puts down the air chisel*

Ahhh 3 grinders in the shop and I never considered that. Thanks race will check when I get to the shop tonight.

Much appreciated! 3 4 and 6" versions one of them prolly will fit.

Will let ya know.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
3" grinder tool required a little bit of convincing to fit nicely, and tool still works on the 3" grinder so all good

Thanks!
 

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Can you post a pic of the tool you used to remove the top nut? I'm in the same boat, some damn amatuer keeps dropping his wheelies too hard! :violent1: I though just a 35mm socek would work.

Did you order the deastock adjuster tool? Part #3880024 to adjust the actual adjuster nut? Or does the grinder tool work for that too?
 

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I tried to put picture from the manual up here, but couldn't figure it out.

The top nut is the nut on "top" of the triple clamp, do you mean the "Lock nut" that's under the triple clamp, but over the "adjuster" nut? If so the lock nut/adjuster tool for an 05 is part number 3880024 and put me back $89 from Great bay Triumph.

The Lock nut and adjuster nut are slotted, the top nut is a fancy looking regular nut.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Should clarify this, my statements are all revolved around an 2003 S3, I have no idea about the setups on the other model years.

J-Pip, I dont have a picture of the tool I used, but it was from a 3" grinder, the tool to remove the disks from the grinder.

I had to *modify* the tool a bit to get it to work. The basic shape was a "U" pattern, with 2 studs coming out at the point of the both "U" ends.

Unforunately I loosened it up to hand movable, then had to return the tool to my neighbor as he was leaving. Sadly, it got a bit hard at the time and I used a punch in one of the holes after confirming with Great Bay that the nut itself is only $21 bucks. I am refering to the circular "nut" with small holes, not the 34mm+ nut under the top clamp. I will also admit to not having a socket large enough to torque the top nut to 40nm, largest socket I had was 34, 46, 50 it was bigger than 34mm and smaller than 46. I did however put the adjustable wrench on it and torqued to what felt like 40nm.. cough. Checked side to side play and no more clink from the head stock... reassembled and was good to go.

Going to check bike bandits to see if they list the tool, Second Wind tossed me a price of $68 for the T38 Tool.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
J-pip ~ How did your R&R on head stock bearing go?

I was lucky at this point my vin split gave me the adjustable one, two piece so there was no need to R&R the entire thing, just packed the bearing a bit more and tightened down some.

Just wondering how yours went?
 

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I'm going to do it tomorrow. It should be easy, it has the two nuts also and should just need to be tightened. I hope I don't have to pull it at all.
 

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Just finished, it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I was worried to find the lock nut and adjuster nut only hand tight. Torqued down to spec now though, i'll bleed the brakes and see if I can still detect any play. ( could only tell when I had the bakes on and pushing the front down.)
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
J-Pip said:
Just finished, it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I was worried to find the lock nut and adjuster nut only hand tight. Torqued down to spec now though, i'll bleed the brakes and see if I can still detect any play. ( could only tell when I had the bakes on and pushing the front down.)
Excellent, yeah mine was nearly hand tight as well. I had ordered the $25 bearing kit, but after adjusting per the manual (which took a few tries) I was able to get all the play out. I did however decide on using a small amount of loctite on the threads, and no it didnt mention this in the manual but if they are backing off after the lock nut and jam nut are in place.. whats a little loctite going to do =) Either way felt better about it.

Glad to hear all went well. The reason I started to think something was up was when after riding forward, if I stopped, then rolled back a bit and applied front brake there was an audible *thunk* and front end thud. Repeating this always resulted in the same thing, but no other tell tale signs of bearing issues.

Rather funny as well after having strung wires to my handle bars to hold the calipers, while doing the front tire R&R, one night of the brakes hung in slightly in the upward (read horizontal) position has resulted in the best *bleed* I have been able to get out of the bike. I am thinking (still running the one cross over line not dual lines to MC) that there was air in the cross over brake line to the left caliper and raising the caliper allowed the air to float up over night... Yes I thought of this all by myself... *cough* :popcorn:

Either way glad it worked out.... Oh hey... do you happen to remember what size nut the upper lock or yoke nut was? 34+mm? Thinking 36-38?
 

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the top nut was 36 mm, bout $9 from sears.  Mine had a similar sound when stopping.  Wish I could test it but the brakes are kicking my ass at the moment.  :horse:
 

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Good thread. I'll be adjusting my own headstock this weekend. Some rookie must have wheelied mine as well.:loser: Headstock tool should be here tomorrow??? (fingers crossed)
 

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I know, I know this is a thread resurrection of the extreme but hear me out...

I just want to know if i have to use a C Spanner to adjust my head stock or can I use the head stock tool (the castle socket)? The manual shows the use of a C Spanner but i can't see why the head stock tool cant be used.
 

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Sparti said:
I know, I know this is a thread resurrection of the extreme but hear me out...

I just want to know if i have to use a C Spanner to adjust my head stock or can I use the head stock tool (the castle socket)? The manual shows the use of a C Spanner but i can't see why the head stock tool cant be used.
You need to use the C spanner as the two locknuts have a locking ring in the middle. I also skip the top bearing and replace it with a tapered bearing.
 

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racecomp said:
Sparti said:
I know, I know this is a thread resurrection of the extreme but hear me out...

I just want to know if i have to use a C Spanner to adjust my head stock or can I use the head stock tool (the castle socket)? The manual shows the use of a C Spanner but i can't see why the head stock tool cant be used.
You need to use the C spanner as the two locknuts have a locking ring in the middle. I also skip the top bearing and replace it with a tapered bearing.
Thanks Race - What's wrong with the std bearing and what's the dif compared to a tapered one?

Now i have to get myself a C Spanner that fits
 
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