[n6yga]

I have an '07 S3 and the suspension is WAY too hard. Even with the compression and rebound cranked all the way to soft, it's like riding a rigid. WTF? Has anyone changed their preload? If so, was it hard to do on the rear shock?

I'm desperate now. If I can't get this thing loosened up a bit I'm gonna have to sell it.

Thanks, guys.

Mark.

 

[Devious2xs]

Maybe one of the lighter riders can post up.

For me it is the opposite issue, I am looking to firm up my suspension for 210 pound self.

 

[n6yga]

Something is not right then cause I'm 210, or so, myself. I know it's a sport bike, but my FZ-1 is way better. This thing is a verti-breaker!!!

How much can I turn out the front preload? Right now I'm showing 2 lines I think.

Mark.

 

[Devious2xs]

I am seriously considering the Ohlins rear shock/spring and then will decide on when to do the fronts.

 

[Guest]

you know where the two adjusters are on the rear shock, right. One of mine was wound right in when I got mine. ???

 

[n6yga]

When I got mine, all of the adjusters were set to within one half-turn from full hard!!!! JEEZ! Are these people freakin crazy? If I wanted a rigid bike I would have gone to West Coast Choppers!!!

So, what do you guys have your preload set at in the front?

Mark.

 

[AlaskaS3]

I moved everything to factory specs (check your manual) the bike as delivered way wayyyyy off of that. I'm 215 myself, and find these settings acceptable, granted I've never set my sag, but I'm happy with it the way it is.

 

[kartstar]

I weigh 175 with all my gear on, and when I picked up the bike, both preload adjusters were maxed out stiff. For the rear, you'll need a hammer and drift punch or large screwdriver to loosen the lockring (top one) and then patiently knock the adjuster ring around anticlockwise until your sag is in the right ballpark. I've only got about two threads left above the lockring. Don't forget to hammer the lockring back tight when you get the sag dialed in.

To get my front sag in the ballpark, I had to unwind the preload all the way, then run it back in two full turns. When I got it it was pretty much maxed out - 6 turns in!

It's never a good idea to "back off" your damping settings, especially if your preload is too high. You'll get crazy pogoing and topout, which can really upset the bike. If anything, with too much preload, you need more damping to control things. Mine is working well at 1-1/2 turns out from full hard (all the way in) on both rear adjusters, 2 turns out on the front rebound and compression. I have a track day coming up to really dial her in...

 

[dr_gallup]

I don't know if the factory doesn't bother to set things to nominal or the dealers change all the settings, but my bike was way off the owners manual settings. I set mine to the recommended settings, then increased rear preload & rebound and decreased compression damping. That seemed to make it ride a bit softer. I've noticed that it does not feel as harsh now that I've got about 3000 miles on her.

 

[dfib]

Mine was way off too, hell the front preload was different on each fork leg..... WTF do you pay set-up charges for? :finger:

 

[HiVel]

:horse: I have found for my well marbled 250 lb muscular self that the rear of my
speedy is way undersprung. The rear was fixed by getting an Ohlins set up for me by an expert=Dan Kyle @ Kyle Racing. The stock spring on the rear was simply not stiff enough and the cheap ass stock shock is pretty much junk comparred to the Ohlins. The front is better and I put the preload at two lines showing. The settings for comp and rebound vary from 1.5 to 3 turns out. Mostly set to 1.5 turns out. Seems to work OK. The forks will be sent to Kyle racing later for his rebuild and tune.
The Ohlins shock is the best investment I have made in this motorcycle, it literally transforms the bike. You will not believe it-but do get it set up professionally!! (no extra cost from Kyle racing.) This shock brings meaning to the words "glued to the road".