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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Want to do an oil change, 4500 miles done.
Do I go to semi-synthetic? and what make do you recommend??
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
You got the manual? If my memory serves, it recommends about 3.5 quarts of 10w40 or 15w50 semi-synthetic or full synthetic. It also recommends a specific type of Mobil 1, but I don't remember what it's called.
 

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Mobile 1 4T is the motorcycle specific oil recommended - full synthetic.

Like many things, do your own research, and choose what you like best. ;)
 

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I recommend a quality virgin olive oil, preferably from Chianti and of the first pressing.  It has a lovely sweet smell that compliments any meal and goes well with roasted garlic. 
 

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crashmasterd said:
I recommend a quality extra virgin olive oil, preferably from Chianti and of the first pressing. It has a lovely sweet smell that compliments any meal and goes well with roasted garlic.
I bet it goes well with roasted duck, but roasts Duc's.

I crack myself up. ;D
 

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ONLY MY OPINION:

Mobile 1 is good oil, the 4T stuff is better.

Motul is better yet (just expensive), and Amsoil makes a great 4T oil.

I use AliSyn 15w-50 (ProDrive type 3) from www.aerospacelubricants.com - I believe it is USD $31.50 per gallon, free ground shipping with the purchase of a case, and no taxes. Best stuff I have ever used. Even my F250 and Lotus get it. Call them and talk oil... and learn. :eek:

Do your own research and pay your own money. ;D
 

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I use the Mobile 1 4T out of convienience only. Motul and Ams oil are hard to find here, plus, the Mobile seems to work great for me.
 

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I was going to change my oil, I read you have to buy a new crush seal for the drain plug. Where to get and how much?
 

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I use the Walmart Mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic and it seems to work just fine.

Of everything I'd read in the past (pages and pages... website after website of research), I didn't see much that justified using 4T or motorcycle specific oil over non-4T. I'd love to see empirical data to the contrary though.

Can you point us to some good websites or data, Devious? If I can get better performance and protection from 4T I'll gladly pay the extra.
 

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TripleNiple - The crush washer for the crankcase drain plug is a 14mm copper or aluminum crush washer available at any Autoparts store for between 35 and 50 cents (USD $). I usually buy a fistfull at a time for use on several different vehicles.

Kuhlka - Do a search for 'the oil bible' and 'Bob is the oil guy'. The Oil Guy site has a lot of info, but is sponsored by an Amsoil distributor, so sometimes is isn't as objective as possible.

As for my favorite oil - nothing new, just very good. Call and talk to the guys at Aerospace Lubricants. Trust me, it is time well spent.

Try and get Falex ball wear test data on any oil your are interested in using. With a bit of work, you can usually get it, or find in on the internet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After all this talk I decided to get off my butt and change my oil. I bought the bike @ 1400 miles and don't know if it was changed before I bought it. Now it's got 2900 so better safe than sorry.

I put 3 quarts in and started the engine to let it circulate and fill the filter. Waited about 45 minutes before coming back out to start adding the last 1/3 quart. But when I checked the level it says it's slightly overfull! Is the manual wrong about this too?
 

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Usually the bike takes 3.0 liters plus the filter - ~3.5L total.

It really depends if you let it drain a while with the bike vertical (not on the kickstand), or not.
 

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kuhlka said:
I use the Walmart Mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic and it seems to work just fine.

Of everything I'd read in the past (pages and pages... website after website of research), I didn't see much that justified using 4T or motorcycle specific oil over non-4T. I'd love to see empirical data to the contrary though.

Can you point us to some good websites or data, Devious? If I can get better performance and protection from 4T I'll gladly pay the extra.
I'm sending off the samples to get analyzed tomorrow....after much procrastination for no apparent reason other than forgetfulness. One sample of new Mobil 1 15w50 (found at walmart) and one sample of the 4T from the dealer, the lab will make comparison on the additive packages in each, etc. I mentioned this some time ago but it hasn't been high on the priorities list.
 

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On Bobistheoilguy.com there is a section for used oil analysis and for motorcycle oils. Shell Rotella T and Chevron Delo, both about $10 a gallon, get VERY high marks. Do a search and read, read, read. There are plenty of cheap non-motorcycle specific oils that perform very well in motorcycles and plenty of expensive motorcycle specific oils that perform poorly in motorcycles. I use either the SRT or Chevron and change the oil every 1000 miles and the filter every 2000 miles.
 

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I tend to change both my oil and filter at around 3,000 miles. I've only let it get up to 5k once before changing oil and the bike ran like crap and shifted HARD until I changed the oil and filter.
 

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The manual for my bike quotes 4 litres. It takes 3.5 quarts to the top 3/4 of the sight window. So that's approx. what your bike takes. Add 3 qts, turn it over with the kickstand down to fill the filter, and then add what you need to get to the full mark.
 

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Tight TL said:
On Bobistheoilguy.com there is a section for used oil analysis and for motorcycle oils. Shell Rotella T and Chevron Delo, both about $10 a gallon, get VERY high marks. Do a search and read, read, read. There are plenty of cheap non-motorcycle specific oils that perform very well in motorcycles and plenty of expensive motorcycle specific oils that perform poorly in motorcycles. I use either the SRT or Chevron and change the oil every 1000 miles and the filter every 2000 miles.
I actually switched to rotella T from mobil mx4t and I like it. Oil is always clean when it comes out and shifting feels better, but I change my oil every 1000 miles or so, so that may be the difference...
 
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