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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good evening all!

I just purchased an '07 Speed Triple, and I love it. It's everything I ever wanted in a bike and then some. I'm beyond impressed.

Just like any used bike purchase, however, there are things I know I'm going to need to touch/fix/adjust/make better before it's running at peak performance. I'm going to end up posting each question separately, depending on whether I can find enough information on my own (searches, etc). I apologize ahead of time is I'm asking something that has been flogged/asked to death, but my searches are usually pretty thorough so I promise I've done the best that *I* can to find the answers. Plus, I'm new to Triumphs and these uh-may-zing triples, so please be gentle.

First and foremost issue (aside from the suspension needing some serious tweaking) is that the bike came with an Arrow 3 to 1 exhaust. I've done some research on this particular unit and it seems like it's an aftermarket option offered by Triumph - it even has the Triumph logo on it. All good so far. Thing is, the bike pops on deceleration (usually one loud pop, followed with a few smaller ones.) Doesn't happen *every* time but it happens much more often than not. Also the exhaust stinks of gas, especially when I open up the throttle (reported by my friend who was riding behind me).

The throttle is jerky. Like, really jerky. One of my previous rides was a Buell xb9 so I understand (and love) a good torque-monster, and I've ridden bikes with, shall we say, "touchy" throttles. This is bordering on unrideable though: coming through turns requires the most delicate of throttle manipulations, as any bump will cause jumping. That's pretty disconcerting. On a straight even the smallest throttle blips causes the bike to smack me in the ass. Some might describe it as "nervous", I think a better way to describe it is that the bike is trying its best to kill me.

Diagnoses based on my previous experience: Almost invariably a jerky or touchy throttle is a tuning issue. So, in fact, is a popping exhaust.

But no, seriously, my question isn't "what do these symptoms mean?" - well, okay, maybe it kind of is - but I'm looking for confirmation from the Triumph gurus/experts/etc that I'm chasing down the right demon here: I think the Arrow system was installed as an aftermarket item but the ECU was likely never tuned. The reason I'm asking for confirmation is because if this is a factory aftermarket option, I imagine that if it *came* this way from the factory, wouldn't the ECU already be tuned for it...?

So yeah, anybody who's ever installed an aftermarket exhaust knows that the next step is usually either direct ECU tuning (if that's a thing for your bike - my Buell, for example, was awesome that way) or a Power Commander (my Kawi, much less awesome that way). I'm trying to figure out what my next step is with this bike. I've read about people adding Power Commanders, and I've read about something called TuneBoy, and then I've also read about factory ECU reflashes for factory aftermarket units (such as this).

To summarize:
1. Can anybody confirm that the popping exhaust on decel and the jerky throttle is as a result of using the aftermarket Arrow 3-1 exhaust without a proper tune?
2. What's the proper way to address this? Do I go down to my nearest Triumph dealer and wave my arms around at them? Do I need to do the whole horrible Power Commander route? Will TuneBoy get me through the post-apocalyptic desert wastelands of Nevada?

Thanks to all in advance for any and all tips, tricks, advice, magic tricks, recommendations, instructions, and wisdom!
 

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The popping on decel is likely the SAI and/or the fact you have a lowmount and are getting fresh air in.

search for "marble" to read about options for the SAI.

For the jerkiness, I suggest the 12min tune up, search "12min" and also ensure your chain has adequate slack, she likes it loose, very loose
 

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And the S3 likes a fat tune, so don't worry about the gas smell
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay...

So I did the 12 minute tune. Interesting about the adaptive ECU. That helped to smooth out the throttle somewhat - at least it feels a little smoother. Still punchy after a shift though - I suppose this is just something to deal with on high torque bikes.

I've ordered a cable for TuneECU, playing around with that should be interesting. I'll be blocking off the SAI in the next few days; hopefully that'll resolve the popping/backfire issue.

I'll report back once all are fixes complete, for posterity. :)
 

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Okay...

So I did the 12 minute tune. Interesting about the adaptive ECU. That helped to smooth out the throttle somewhat - at least it feels a little smoother. Still punchy after a shift though - I suppose this is just something to deal with on high torque bikes.

I've ordered a cable for TuneECU, playing around with that should be interesting. I'll be blocking off the SAI in the next few days; hopefully that'll resolve the popping/backfire issue.

I'll report back once all are fixes complete, for posterity. :)
another option is the PO fitted it with a quicker ratio throttle barrel.

when seated on the bike, can you go to full throttle without releasing the grip?
 

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You've probably already checked but excess throttle cable slack can also make modulating the throttle difficult.

There was a factory tune for the Arrows pipe, most likely it's been flashed into the ECU. Better results can be had though with TuneECU. A throttle body sync may be in order too.

If the SAI blockoff does not stop the backfiring you may have an exhaust leak at the header. Be careful checking the header bolt torque. The nuts frequently seize and a broken stud is a PITA.
 

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You've probably already checked but excess throttle cable slack can also make modulating the throttle difficult.

There was a factory tune for the Arrows pipe, most likely it's been flashed into the ECU. Better results can be had though with TuneECU. A throttle body sync may be in order too.

If the SAI blockoff does not stop the backfiring you may have an exhaust leak at the header. Be careful checking the header bolt torque. The nuts frequently seize and a broken stud is a PITA.
And if you are checking the header nuts, get a shop manual. To do it properly, there is a sequence to it. You can also be sure you have all the torque specs with a shop manual.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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You've probably already checked but excess throttle cable slack can also make modulating the throttle difficult.
Not enough slack (or no slack) can also make it difficult to be smooth on the throttle
 

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You chain could be stretched and fukked , just changed mine which was causing a jerky throttle and it is a lot better now .
Almost up there with that new tyre feeling .
 
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