Kuhlka's Dyno w/ Zard

See my Zard thread in performance -> http://www.thespeedtriple.com/Forums/index.php?topic=596.30

The Zard has given me really predictable performance throughout the powerband and more performance up top, but essentially it smoothed everything out while removing some of my low-end grunt at 2-3k. On the plus side, the bike used to be really twitchy and scary to ride with how I've set it up pre-Zard. Now it is cakey scooting around town.

The only thing that bothers me is that I got an earful of data and knowledge from Andy at Metric and learned about how Dynojet essentially adds some calculations to their calculations to bump up the numbers. He said most stock Hayabusas that have come to his dyno have pulled high 130's HP if that is any indication of how fluffy Dynojets are. Anyway, the 'actual' BHP of my bike turned out to be mid to high 90's with torque around the high 50's. The dynojet I had the bike on a few years back said 113hp and 69ft lbs and the bike doesn't feel anywhere NEAR a 20hp power loss, so the 'proof is in the pudding'. I'd like to see a Houston 1050 get on the dyno at Metric and do a few pulls to compare, but overall I'm very pleased with how the bike performs now. I'd just like a lump more power and lower the rear of the bike a bit for better street stability and remove some of the twitchy handling.

I remember very well the whole Dynojet development - I had an '86 V-Max. Loads of fun.

If you look at the Factory Pro site, the real power page has a correction based on output. It should give you an idea of where you stand.

The deal is that before Dynojet, there really wasn't much available, only a very few race shops with old water brake dynos. I will give Mark Dobeck credit for bringing a solid design to market, but different designs use different correction factors. The big deal is the percentage gain you found... or didn't.

Today, lots of different manufacturers argue over details. Where were they 20 years ago? One thing that some dynamometer manufacturers dont tell you is that unless the acceleration rate on the dyno is the same as on the street or track, the tuning will not be perfect. If the bike is loaded differently, it will want different fuel (and especially spark timing). Even gear selected for tuning can make a difference. Optimum on the dyno is not alway best for the track.

I am looking to buy a bike dyno. It will likely be a Dynojet, because it is the standard today, not necessarily the best. But I will still do street mapping as well.

Also, the earlier Dynojets used a correction factor that is different than the later 250 units. When they updated the software and released the Tuning Link stuff, the factor changed. Better, but still optimistic.

Last nite I had my my Speedy run on a portable Dyno at Bike Nite (AMA Races in Town) at Hooters 280 in B'ham. The make of Dyno is unknown to me -it was done by www.prolineraceprep.com @ 321-262-3447. This dyno was in a trailer with a generator running the cooling fans and electronics. The guy running it seemed very knowedgeable but the info given to me was not very complete. All it showed was max POWER , max SPEED, elapsed time and A/F ratio for the run. Seemed to work OK. he gave me the sheet -showed 123.1 HP @ the rear wheel and speed of 142.3mph. Do not have any stock numbers on this dyno to relate. The speedo tell-tale showed 170mph!!! He knew the tach ws off about 1000 high at the top. His A/F ratio showed it to be slightly lean on the top end, but he said it was OK for street riding and not to tweak it unless I really wanted to. This bike in my opinion should have done better(than what?) but I do not have stock numbers for this dyno. The way it runs is very satisfying and I am happy with the bike. The owner /operator had a speed triple and said mine was a good one!

I also ran my Bonnie T100 and it pulled 65.2 rwHP and 124.4 mph. These bikes stock generally show about 53 rwHP , so I am really pleased with that performance and it is about what I expected given the mods to that engine. It also indicatd a very lean condition above the low rpm range and he said I should move up size from135 to 145 on the main jets which I will try ASAP.
Not bad info for $25.00 a pull.