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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This s**t is too easy.

I bought a key, then downloaded the software and drivers to my laptop. Devi pointed me in the right direction :drink: with the correct tune for my '05 with SAI deleted and Two Bros. high system. I hooked it all up with some trepidation, and it responded just like they said it would, with the ECU serial number. I emailed this to TuneBoy.co.au, and in 12 hrs, I had my key in my Inbox. I fired the laptop back up and entered the key, then hooked it back up to the bike to attempt my first ever Tune download. I had one failed attempt, then the program put itself in "Slow Download mode" and tried again - it worked flawlessly.

:afro: I now have the 20088_dyno39pp.dat tune installed, and the bike fired right up - seems I may need to tweak the prime pulse, as it didn't want to fire as readily this morning fully cold, but it runs like a scalded cat! I can't wait for an opportunity to get it out and explore the entire rev range! ;D

So now I'm praying for a couple rainy days so I can yank the header and do THAT work ::)...damn you all!
 

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GREAT!

If you want, add a little fuel to the Prime Pulse, and check the idle rpm. Sometimes dropping the idle rpm by 50 rpm, helps starting.

Did you check the ISCV voltage and try resetting it?

Have fun with the improved power. And let me know if I can help with the header work. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am going to reset ISCV voltage this eve, before messing with the prime pulse. I didn't touch any of the settings - it idles at the same speed as before (1200 rpm) and in all other respects seems the same. I just had to open the throttle a hair to get it to fire cleanly when cold.

It doesn't really say in any of the literature, but in order to use TuneBoy, I hook up the cable, turn the ignition key "on", then start TuneBoy, then fire up the engine?
 

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kartstar said:
It doesn't really say in any of the literature, but in order to use TuneBoy, I hook up the cable, turn the ignition key "on", then start TuneBoy, then fire up the engine?
For the diagnostics, connect the cable, fire up the bike.
Open TB Diagnostics, select Sensors page at top.

Throttle position (TPS) voltage is in the second column - this should read between 0.58 and 0.62v.
Reset ISCV is at the bottom, on left.

Try reducing the idle to 1150 rpm. And then try starting it cold.
If this doesn't work, drop the Prime Pulse 2% (12545) in the Tune Constants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
NOTE: For resetting ISCV, the bike must not be running.

I understand better now: "Reset ISCV" doesn't actually reset anything. It uses the idle stepper to fully shut the throttle, whereupon the TPS voltage should read .6 +/- .02v. Obviously, this can't be done with engine running - it would just stall out and possibly cause fouling. When the engine is running, TPS voltage is necessarily going to read higher than this, b/c the throttle is slightly open to maintain target idle RPM.

FWIW, reducing prime pulse may not be the answer for all. Mornings are quite cool here compared to daytime, and dropping my prime pulse from 12800 to 12400 actually made starts harder. I am going to try increasing prime pulse to 13200 for a little more enrichment on cold starts. I'll post tomorrow the result of this tweak.

Fun fun fun!
 

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Also, before you yank your header and start that project make sure you get the gaskets first. I had to wait two weeks for mine.
 

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I had my first tuneboy experience yesterday. Loaded the same tune as Kartstar, and also loaded another after that that Devi has developed. Both worked beautifully and improved the throttle response and made the bike feel smoother and sharper. And it started in less than 2 seconds from cold. It has always taken 5-7 seconds before this.

Many thanks to Devi for his advice and his patient answers to all my dumb questions. BTW Devi, it's not over yet.

Next stop is the dyno shop.
 

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i had a few probs about 2 hrs trying to get it to connect with bike set port to com 8 in device manager and bingo. got key and loaded tune 20102.
first ride tick over seems a bit lower for the better 1000 rpm and rides well smother and pulls like a goodun . starting has improved mine took longer when warmed but no more. my tps volts was .695 done the reset now its .685 not to sure on that any ideas .
thanks devi for all info and tune
 

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You can't actually reset the iscv with the tune boy.

Here's what I did:

1. remove tank and air box
2. Loosen the clamps holding the throttle bodies
3. Remove the throttle bodies. The TPS is on the left side, the idle stepper motor is on the right.
4. Connect the tune boy cable, turn it on, and start tune boy program.
5. Go to the "sensors" page on the program and click on "reset iscv"
6. The stepper motor will close all the way and your TPS voltage should be 0.60V
7. If you are off use a T20 Torx bit to ajust the TPS on the left side of the throttle body.
8. Once your TPS voltage reads "0.06" click on the ISCV button to continue.
9. Your TPS voltage should increase by 0.12V, giving you a reading of about 0.72V, adjust the nut on the stepper motor linkage until you read 0.72V.
10 Click on the ISCV button again to continue. The bike should now run a test, reset and your TPS reading should be .6 +/- .02.

Good luck! :wrench:
 

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If you want, add a little fuel to the Prime Pulse, and check the idle rpm. Sometimes dropping the idle rpm by 50 rpm, helps starting.

Read this after pooring through all these poor stating threads and started playing with the idle and I have to say what a big difference this can make. My bike cold starts like crap and I have been thinking that the sprag clutch may be going or at least the battery might need to go, but this gave me my first reasonable cold crank start ever. Lowered the idle to 1150rpm wouldn't start and started bringing it back up, 1250rpm and the happy bike. Prime pulse is stock and I am running the SAI version of the devious low mount tune on Hoostines sight. Thirty-two degrees F today and the bike started on one jab to the starter about 5 cranks. And I still have 20-50 wt in there. :violent1:
 

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My experience with resetting or reprogramming automotive ECU's is that the first few starts after resetting/reprogramming the ECU always takes more cranks. In the reset/reprogramming process the learning the ECU has done gets erased. It takes some starting and running cycles for the ECU to relearn parameters.

Not sure if this is the case for bikes though. Much of the logic should be the same, especially in closed loop mode like at idle.
 

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AirheadtoHooligan said:
My experience with resetting or reprogramming automotive ECU's is that the first few starts after resetting/reprogramming the ECU always takes more cranks. In the reset/reprogramming process the learning the ECU has done gets erased. It takes some starting and running cycles for the ECU to relearn parameters.

Not sure if this is the case for bikes though. Much of the logic should be the same, especially in closed loop mode like at idle.
Most bike ECUs are much more simple than automotive units.
But in both, after loading a new tune, the long and short term trims in the ECU are blank. Just like after a "12 minute tune-up" or disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. The ECU needs to re-learn what is needed for best operation.

However, a few small changes to the prime pulse, F and I tables at (and below) idle speed, etc. will make the bike start very well. Each bike is a bit different in what it needs for starting at cold and hot temps. But it is not hard to find what it wants. Just save you changes, and delete what does not work well.
 
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