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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have no access to a dyno or tuner at the mo so this is not going to be scientific.....

Now I have tuneboy, TORS, new performance filter what should be next on the list?

I'm kinda thinking the exhaust could be cleaned up? from reading bits and pieces from this site but having no welding gear may bugger that up (to remove pre-cat).

TIA

Mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Mark,
Any local welding shop can weld up the small holes left from drilling out the front pins/welds on the precats - for little cost.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok DVS.

What is needed to be done to exhaust? (apart from remove pre- cat).


I see you did some work cleaning it up (removing slag etc) what sort of task/tools/skills is this for some amateaur like me.

I presume it's easy to remove the exhaust but being a newbie I've never took it off and don't know what gaskets etc may be required or if the bolts are gonna be bitches to get out/get near etc.

Then once it's off I'd like to know what to look for and clean up to improve flow.

Sorry so many questions.

:D ;)

Mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
On HiVel's exhaust:
I used a die grinder with sanding rolls to match the header to the exhaust ports and add a .025 inch larger step on the bottom sides of each port in the header - to help reduce reversion.

I used a 6 inch carbide burr in a die grinder to grind out the welding slag and pins from the SAI and any other obstructions in the header and mid pipe. The Trident pipes needed a lot of work.

Then I ceramic coated the pipes, but did not wrap them.

You can get carbid burrs and sanding rolls/tapers from many sources including www.eastwoodco.com and http://ccspecialtytool.com/.

You will need a set of copper header gaskets (3 parts in a set) from your dealer - I cannot remember the price, but it wasn't much.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Would anyone say getting the exhaust of and on again is within a part timers abilities?

Match header to ports? do you mean "square up" so they butt up flush?

TIA again! ;D

Mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is easy, but you will need a torque wrench to put them on correctly.

The exhaust ports in the head and the ones in the header primary pipe casting flange do not meet up well. The header has a couple of points where it intrudes into the flow from the head. A couple of minutes with a sanding roll on a die grinder fixes it. Both mine and HiVel's headers needed this - all of them may need it.

I also remove a bit of material from the header at the bottom of the port so that the header is a bit larger than the exhaust port. This acts slightly like a one way valve, and prevents exhaust gasses on the port floor (where velocity is low, at low rpm) from flowing back into the exhaust port. It is called an AR (anti-reversion) notch and is common practice. It can help add a touch of throttle response.
 

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Dev,
Have you noticed that the Trident slip-on with mid pipe makes more hp and tq then the Zard full system. How does that happen? The Trident uses the stock header, which obviously needs some cleaning up and the cat removed, and has all the flow restricting bends of the stock system. The Zard full system comes with a header (hopefully better than the stock one) and has none of the flow restricting bends. With some minor clean up and cat removal I think the stock header can be made as good as an aftermarket one. What do you think?
Fred
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok Wayne you have convinced me it's at least worth a look.

I'm so happy at the mo with the way the bikes running (with it's new tune and filter) that I'm greedy for more.

What torque setting is required when re-assembling?


Mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fred - It is unlikely the Zard single silencer can flow enough for a good header design. So right where the header SHOULD make more power, the silencer is the restriction. Also, it is easy to really screw up exhaust velocity with a larger diameter header primary or collector. Low velocity gives poor torque.

With a good design, a header can have good velocity and low restriction over a large part of the powerband. The engine that has the best average power, will always beat the engine with a peaky powerband but higher peak numbers.

The stock header is not that much worse than the Zard one - once the precat is removed and a bit of clean up work is done. I really wish Zard or Arrow would have designed the collector correctly.

I'm not sure the Trident 1/2 system makes more power than the TOR's - with or without the header work. Once the engine sees less than 2.2 psi of back pressure, going to more flow has less and less benefit.

Mark - If you lived nearby, I would be more than happy to do the work on your header. But it is nothing fancy or hard to do. I HIGHLY recommend the ceramic coating. It doesn't cost much to do it yourself, and the largest expense is a cheap heat gun - but if you don't mind installing sticky parts, even that is not needed, it just makes it easier and nicer.
 

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Devious,
I guess by now you have seen the 2007 S3 Arrow full ti exhaust sold as an accessory. It is similar in looks to the Zard, a single silencer. It is going to be priced in the $2000 range. The dealers I spoke to didn't know if Triumph or Arrow were going to post before and after dyno's. I know you are really busy with other projects but I think if you want a header built right you are going to have to do it yourself.
Fred
 

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729 Posts
Liter class and larger inline fours make ridiculous power with single 2" silencer so the Zard should not be the limiting factor unless the design is screwed big time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have already started ordering parts and piping for my own header.

Harris - Pipe diameter has a huge part in how the exhaust flows and sounds.

A 'Busa at 9500 rpm flows a MAXIMUM of 436 cfm. So the pipe manufacturers go to a larger diameter pipe for increased flow, reducing low end velocity. if you did this to a Speed Triple, the owners would not be happy.

Also the tapered Zard silencer (not the actual pipe diameter) is a restriction to pulse absorption in the exhaust - that is why the Zard sounds raspier than other designs.

If you like the Zard, great. I am not trying to belittle it or the Zard owners. I just have yet to see a dyno chart of a Zard system that impressed me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As a side note, I expect to see more and more dual exhaust systems on bikes. it makes it easier for manufacturers to add catalysts and reduce noise while keeping the same power levels.

One day the manufacturers will realize that ceramic coated exhausts retain heat better than precats and cost less - with more power.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
DVS,

I live 100 miles from Birmingham........ unfortunately though, it's 100 miles from Birmingham in England not the South of good ol USA where I believe you may come from. :'( ;D (I live near London).

However a very kind offer that was most generous.

I'm really looking forward to adjusting the exhaust. I have all the thread notes from various bits of this site nicely pasted into a file.

The coating I will look into, I had this (incorrect) impression you needed a large oven, like a clay potters oven! lol.

Mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Mark,
I have a claypotters oven for powder-coating big parts and some ceramic coatings. I use a smaller oven for smaller parts.

The Black Satin is the only one you can semi-cure without an oven. It also works the best. A heat gun works great.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This may sound like a dumb question Wayne, but......................did you coat just the outside?

(I see some car exhausts do inside as well).

Mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
There are no dumb questions - only dumb answers.

No, I only coated the outside - two coats in some places. I did spray a bit into the topside in the primaries.

FEW companies can truely coat the inside. And little is to be gained by coating the inside - I did it on a turbo rotary engine several years ago simply because I could coat it well on the inside. It made absolutely no difference on the dyno or on the track.

I have used Jet-hot, Swaintech, and Polydyn (polymer dynamics) for exhaust coating. Only Polydyn has a coating that I have been able to detect a benefit over coating it myself, and it was only a small benefit. Wrapping them (after coating) gives an even bigger gain.

On one engine, the Jet-Hot silver coating performance was less than with the exact same header coated myself with Black Satin.

Hivel's header was only coated, not wrapped.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
HiVel had mentioned wrapping the headers, but I guess he just wanted to get the exhaust back on and test it. I left that up to him.
 
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