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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Devi,

You have compiled and tested a SHITLOAD of mods that all result in more HP at the wheel. What I am curious about is :

1) are any of these changes non additive? (i.e. you are kind enough to quote expected gains for a given mod, but I assume they are from stock, not after 'n' number of other mods?)

2) what is the HP of your superbike up to now? Did you find that most of the individual gains continued to "stick"?

Summary of my known changes you have talked about:

gas additive, "cooler" intake air, intake port mods, exhaust port mods, exhaust/cans, weight reductions. I may have missed some, but very curious to see what they all add up to! :)

C-Dub
 

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OK, most of this is from memory, but the first time on the dyno (Dynojet) was 108.1 hp at 36 miles. This changed to 110+, then around 112.5 hp as the engine sealed up over the first thousand miles.

With TORS and tune, it was just under 118 hp.

I then used Tuneboy and modified the header to get 124+ hp. This may have been with the Trident half system, but may have been with the TORS - I can't remember, my note book is at the shop. I know the Trident went on right before or right after this session.

The intake work, cold air ducting, air filter, cam timing, and velocity stacks (version 1) gave just under 132.5hp and not quite 82.5 ft-lb with tuning (with the fuel additive). Lots of low end torque was available with this set up. I can't say what mods here did how much.

I played with the velocity stack length, taper, and radius (with slight alterations in cam timing) to get 135 hp but torque dropped a touch (lots of testing and tuning that made little gain above 8000 rpm). I have seen a couple of 136-137 hp pulls, but I consider these anomalies with an improperly warmed engine - not repeatable results.

I spent a couple of days playing with the airbox - changing volume higher and lower, playing with the intake "snorkles" (and custom ones), added a hole to the airbox, and LOTS of tuning. Not much was gained (lots was learned about the engine though), but it was not conclusive.

Since then I have done a bit more work, and I am trying to get back on the dyno again - it may not happen until next week. When I have results (good, bad, or other), I will post what was done.

I need to scan a stack of dyno sheets and post them - I lost a couple to water damage (don't ask). A few are posted on this site.

Side note, this was on the same dyno we tested CB's bike recently. On another Dynojet in town, I got nearly the same numbers (+/- 0.5 hp).

TightTL made 129+ hp with the Trident half system, header work, and BMC filter with a TuneBoy tune. So I would say these mods are fairly well documented to give a 14% to 15% gain over stock. His dyno graphs can be found on this site as well.

I have a few more things I want to try. IT NEVER STOPS - especially if I get the dyno I am looking into. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the summary Devi. is the airbox summary nclusive of trying to route colder air into the intake?
 

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cwb4tx said:
is the airbox summary nclusive of trying to route colder air into the intake?
???

The cold air ducting I built fits up against the bottom of the airbox. The other work was on intake tuning - little gain except over limited parts of the powerband.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Devious said:
cwb4tx said:
is the airbox summary nclusive of trying to route colder air into the intake?
???

The cold air ducting I built fits up against the bottom of the airbox. The other work was on intake tuning - little gain except over limited parts of the powerband.
after re reading your post, I submit myslef to this:

:slap: :violent1: :horse: :loser: :gtfo:
 

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I was checking the airfilter today and noticed couple of things.

1. The pair valve valve is right at the intake tube way. By removing this there is more space at the front of the intake tubes.

2. The Bellmouths inside the airbox are quite long. this takes them close to the airbox top cover. by shortening them a little, it may breath easier and shorter bellmouths move the the power up. or not.

3. Bellmouths fit well to the throttle body, but for some reasong the Bellmouths are little narrower just before the TB.?

4. All the engine hot air can heat the airbox, also the intake takes hot air from the engine bay. Usually all the japanese bikes have shield plates to separate the airbox from the engine heat.(mototune-usa tuner said on his site that R6 heat plate is worth 10hp). I was looking at the struckture and I think it needs some plates, maybe plastic or rubber. so that the heat from the radiator and from the cylinder head doesn't come up. Airbox bottom could also be covered with aluminium 'tape' to keep the heat of it.

Overall the throttle body, bellmouth, airbox setup looks good, airbox could be bigger, there even is space left on the sides. major down fall is the airbox intake tubes taking hot air and being blocked by the PAIR valve actuator?

there is temperature sensor at the top of the airbox. So any improvement over lower air temp and the ecu probably knows to compensate with more fuel->more power.

JT
 

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damn, just the thing I was thinking about.! :pow:
 

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He finished some but I never got my hands on one :(

Jake, if you're gonna do something like it, make one for me too while you're at it :)
 

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Jaket said:
I was checking the airfilter today and noticed couple of things.

1. The pair valve valve is right at the intake tube way. By removing this there is more space at the front of the intake tubes.

2. The Bellmouths inside the airbox are quite long. this takes them close to the airbox top cover. by shortening them a little, it may breath easier and shorter bellmouths move the the power up. or not.

3. Bellmouths fit well to the throttle body, but for some reasong the Bellmouths are little narrower just before the TB.?

4. All the engine hot air can heat the airbox, also the intake takes hot air from the engine bay. Usually all the japanese bikes have shield plates to separate the airbox from the engine heat.(mototune-usa tuner said on his site that R6 heat plate is worth 10hp). I was looking at the struckture and I think it needs some plates, maybe plastic or rubber. so that the heat from the radiator and from the cylinder head doesn't come up. Airbox bottom could also be covered with aluminium 'tape' to keep the heat of it.

Overall the throttle body, bellmouth, airbox setup looks good, airbox could be bigger, there even is space left on the sides. major down fall is the airbox intake tubes taking hot air and being blocked by the PAIR valve actuator?

there is temperature sensor at the top of the airbox. So any improvement over lower air temp and the ecu probably knows to compensate with more fuel->more power.

JT
1. You can rotate the snorkels downward a bit so they clear the sai.

4. The intake air does not heat from engine radiation when the bike is moving. I have measured it and the heat shields etc. do absolutely nothing on a 1050 S3. There is a pretty much straigth shot of ambient air to the snorkels at speed. You find the resuls here: http://www.thespeedtriple.com/Forums/index.php?topic=1772.0
 

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Yes, it was thinking it too, that probably during road speeds the difference is not there. it gets enough cold air when driving.

heat shield would work best in driving, where the bike is standing first and then WOT. like drag racing. At higher speeds the may be negative pressure behind the head stock, but that is not really relevant on most triples as top speed are not a target on naked bikes. RAM air would help at high speeds, but I'm not a big lover of RAM air, I actually call it RAM FLY, as it only rams fly's to the airfilter in roadbike.

JakeT.
 
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