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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I just realized where this whole thread started; looking for a list of other bikes that have the MOSFET R/R to be scavenged from a salvage yard. I just thought it might be a handy list or sticky for those who want to go that route instead of the series R/R. I actually stumbled upon a list on another forum but can't recall where. I'm going to keep looking but if anyone happens to know of such a list please share.
 

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I'll start the list of bikes that don't come with it, eventually this will play a key part in helping you narrow it down.

1. 2008 S3​
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I went to the local cycle salvage place and the only mosfet R/R they had was the FH014 from a CBR-1000 so I grabbed it, I haven't been able to find much reference to it on the forums but I figured I'd give it a go. It has different connectors than the other mosfet R/R's but I'm just making do with terminal ends, heat shrink, and crimping. I also went to the local electronics store and found a 10ga. ATC in line fuse holder, so I grabbed that too.

2 questions though for the guys that have already gone through this: where did you send the negative lead from the R/R? Has anyone used or heard of anyone using the FH014 R/R?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
For the record, I will be getting a compufire as well once I get my debt within a reasonable limit. I got the FH014 for $40 so I figure even if it only lasts one season it'll keep me riding until I can upgrade to the series R/R.
 

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2 questions though for the guys that have already gone through this: where did you send the negative lead from the R/R?
Negative lead from R/R to battery negative.
Positive lead from R/R to battery positive via fuse or circuit breaker.
:eboy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
OK, so I installed the new stator (from Rick's)
an FH014aa R/R (from a 2008 CBR-1000)
10 gauge wire with inline fuse from R/R to battery (+),
10 gauge wire from R/R to battery (-)
brand new Deka battery

The only thing that concerns me is that according to the multimeter the system is charging at 18-19 volts, which seems a tad high. I don't know if there's something wrong with the meter, but I don't know why it would be charging so high. Any ideas?
 

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18-19 volts will toast your battery, and possibly some other gizmos like the ECU ($$$$$$$) pretty quick. With the bike not running your new battery voltage should be in the 13 volt region. Proves meter is reading correctly. Try another meter to confirm. Your used FH014aa could be faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
That's the weird thing, the battery was reading high before I even put it in the bike. I'm gonna pull it out and test it again, also take my multimeter to Baynesville Electronics and see if they can test/calibrate it. I don't want to cook anything that didn't have feet and a brain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
(I really loathe to think that I've been trying to diagnose things with a faulty meter, that's like getting dating advice from a stripper)
 

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Damn. That sucks. Good thing you didn't splurge on the Compufire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I wish I could afford to splurge, I still need to scrape the sofa cushions for tire money. I used a laser thermometer on the FH014 R/R (after a 3 hour ride) and it was only 105 degrees, so I'm keeping my hopes up. I've got about 6 spare 30A fuses under the seat, used 10ga. wire for the positive and negative leads (R/R -> Battery), so I feel like I've done what I can to beef everything up.
 
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