[OutlawS3]

I'm going to drop off my exhaust to get them ceramic coated Friday. Never removed the header before any advice? Does the radiator need to be removed or just swung out of the way.

Any help would be appriated from someone who has done this.

 

[Guest]

You just need to move the radiator forward a bit but that does require removing all radiator mounting bolts. The center header mounting bolts are bit difficult to get at though. I would spray some penetrant on the bolts first to try and stop snapping anything off! Just be sure to clean it up real good before reassembly.

 

[OutlawS3]

Dan,
Thanks for the info. Took them off today and dropped them off at the ceramic coating shop. Everything went well

 

[kuhlka]

I don't even want to think about removing my own headers. Those bolts are rusted to holy hell. I'm afraid they might snap off if I try anything.

 

[OutlawS3]

Mine were freakishly easy to remove. I was ready for a fight but had no problems. The sensor was the bitch, almost had to stand on the pipe to crank her out of there.

 

[Guest]

Stuff that!
I'm replacing my studs and nuts with SS items from http://www.inoxbolt.co.uk/Homepage.htm as they have a t955i list, as they modded a '01 some years ago (All on PDF)

 

[Guest]

I'm going to do the same - but, does John (Inox) have the details of the studs etc???

 

[Guest]

Stainless? Make sure you put some copperslip on them otherwise the nuts will gall and never come off.

 

[Martin_R]

Wasn't copper in a steel-alu connection very bad corrosionwise?

Steel in aluminium will make the aluminium corrode some.
Copper in aluminium will make the aluminium corrode a lot and the steel corrode some.

At least that is how I have my metallurgy in my head currently. Only aluminium paste to a steel to aluminium joint. NO copper anywhere near it.

 

[dfib]

Wasn't copper in a steel-alu connection very bad corrosionwise?

Steel in aluminium will make the aluminium corrode some.
Copper in aluminium will make the aluminium corrode a lot and the steel corrode some.

At least that is how I have my metallurgy in my head currently. Only aluminium paste to a steel to aluminium joint. NO copper anywhere near it.

Granted I know very little bout metallurgy, but if that is the case with copper, why would Triumph use copper gaskets on the exhaust ports?

 

[Martin_R]

Granted I know very little bout metallurgy,

Same here and even my rules of thumb might be a bit dated and/or not apply here. Maybe someone a bit knowledgeable will explain this soon.

but if that is the case with copper, why would Triumph use copper gaskets on the exhaust ports?

Because they are cheap and maintain the seal well under heat and Triumph factory likes all things cheap?

I guess this link is close enough to what I ment:
http://www.textronfasteningsystems.com/eng_tools_f/galv_corr.html
The further away the two metals are on the table the more likely the galvanic corrosion.

Now that I refreshed my memory a bit more, I think the anode-cathode size ratio played some role in this also, so the aluminium block being large and copper gasket small...humm... yes, maybe it's best to wait for the explanation from someone who actually knows what they are talking about.
;D

Until then, I am sticking to my aluminium based thread lube.

 

[Devious2xs]

Stainless nuts on stainless studs can definately seize, but you can use silver antiseize compound or Locktite without issue - even on aluminum blocks with a high likelyhood of galvanic corrosion (like boat engines - especially outboards).

 

[AA]

Wouldn't it be easier, and cheaper, just to apply the silver antisieze compound to the standard steel studs?

??? ??? ???

AA