Triumph Speed Triple Forums banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

· Registered
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone!
I own a 2006 Speed Triple1050 and I need help with my bike, I tried diagnosing by myself and I've come to a point that I'd rather test other people's ideias before buying more stuff and running the risk of doing even more damage.
I've had serious stator and r/r issues, it burnt three times, the last time the plugs on the stator and r/r didn’t prevent water ingress, and both failed because of that, I managed to get both replaced under warranty, got a brand new, bigger 14Ah battery, sealed all the plugs with silicone, until today the stator and r/r are fine and well, and the bike was back to normal … for a while.

Since then my bike developed some problems and I can’t find the source of them, here are the symptoms and what I’ve done:

- It idles really rough at 500~600 rpms, if I let it idle without accelerating it goes back to around 1k after 10 seconds or so.

-If I give it throttle from 0 to 100 suddenly, it stalls, if I roll it up to 2~3k and only then accelerate hard, it works fine.

-it misfires at idle and leaps forward at low rpms, I lost the backside 3 times on curves because of that, lucked out on not falling down.

-I don’t feel any loss of power, SEEMS to be working great past 3k rpms, I managed to get it up to 220km/h just fine, but I might be mistaken at that point, can’t really focus on the bike at that speed after all.

-TPS reads 0,3% when off and goes up to 1,7% when on, so I assume the TPS and stepper are ok, since it does adjust at idle, given time.

-I installed new cr9ek plugs last year, used them for 5k kilometers, checked them and they’re fine and dry.

-I found moisture on one coil’s plug, thought that was the problem, bought 3 used original coils, but didn’t change a thing.

-Checked vacuum lines, they’ve been previously replaced by the previous owner, they look way longer than needed, but the bike worked fine with those for more than a year, they’re not cracked nor leaking.

-Cylinder pressure reads 580, 570, 580 hPa

-I checked the airbox, seems to be tight and sealed, thinking about it now I should’ve put silicone on the edges of it too just to be sure.
-Throttle tubes seals are ok.

-I disconnected the lambda probe and it didn’t make a difference.

-TPS reads 0,3% when off and goes up to 1,7% when on, so I assume the TPS and steppers are ok, since it does adjust at idle, given time.

-I put best possible quality gasoline in it to help clean the system to no avail, the valves are shiny af now though.

Last sunday (20/11) I also soldered cables from the stator to the r/r as I didn’t trust those plugs, I also soldered the r/r straight to the battery, both the positive and negative, to help the charging system. The battery reads 12.5V off and 14.3 on

What I DIDN’T do is fiddle with the fuel system, the pump does prime and the bike fires right up, stays normal for a while and then idles rough. The pump is making less noise when priming than before, which makes me suspicious of it, but if that were the case the bike would be rough at high speed too, no?

I also didn’t test the sensors, CPS, TPS, O2, etc., simply because I don’t know how to.

The bike has aftermarket cans and map 20085, it didn’t run for about 2 months after the stator problem, and then developed those problems, but it ran fine prior to that.

Using Tune ECU isn’t an option for me right now, I’m having a hard time finding a cable that works.

I’m hoping you guys can help me into the right direction before I dismantle the fuel tank, I’m afraid of creating a fuel leak.
I tested what I could and don’t know what or how to test anymore.

Any idea is very welcome.

Thanks in advance.
1 - 1 of 1 Posts