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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What rpm do you have your shift lights set at. I have my set at peak torque for a stock bike (5,100 which I read in the owners manual). Just kinda wondering where everybody else sets theirs?
 

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Got mine set where the first green comes on right where I want to shift when drag racing: about 9500 RPM according to the whacko tach. That way by just shifting one light higher or lower I can play with my times a bit.

It doesn't seem to make much difference though. The launch is where the big changes are made.
 

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I killed the fookas as they are shite.
MH
 

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Mine are still set at break-in, I never look at them anyway, the rev limiter will tell you when to shift. :horse:
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have mine set to peak torque same as you. Don't look at them much in truth - especially when pulling hard. Too busy watching the mirrors for flashing blue lights!!
 

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I have dual stage shift lights on my Veypor VR2 dash. I set the first to go off 1k before redline 8,500 and lights up brighter and flashes at 9,000rpm.
 

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I have mine set as high as possible, Yesterday was the first time I even noticed them much. I generally ride by sound and feel. The tach lies at high rpm (reads low), but the lights seem to be correct.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sunlight glare makes them pretty much useless to me. By the time I try to focus on them I might as well just look at the tach otherwise I'm banging the rev limiter.They are real pretty at night though ;D
 

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Turned 'em off. Too many stages and too dim to be useful unless you are conciously staring straight at them.

I would prefer for all LEDs to be brighter red and to light up at the same time. Maybe they would also work better in one tight cluster, instead of being sprinkled all over the side of the dash.

It would be easy to rewire to get what I want, but I am a bit hesitant to try and pry the gauge cluster open as it looks to be sealed at assembly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Martin_R said:
It would be easy to rewire to get what I want, but I am a bit hesitant to try and pry the gauge cluster open as it looks to be sealed at assembly.
S'easy. IIRC four or five screws and the 2 halves of the pod just pull apart (gently!). Take care not to loose the silicon sealing band.
 
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