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I just ordered a Mofset. I will get the Shen one next time. Lmfao

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No mate, I don't. I recommend you read this thread on Trat. in the later part of the thread He talks about the Shendingan SH775 Series regulator and how to fit it. He recommends a part made by Triumph which is cheap to buy, to connect the R/R into the loom, called the Link lead. All that you need to know is in post #13 of that thread.

This is the R/R you need. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Vol...=item25d8610199:g:ZPQAAOSw5dlaIDu-:rk:12:pf:0
Thanks mate, we have read that post a number of times.
My only concern is dodgy ebay sellers.
 

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99.7% from large no. of sales looks okay to me.
 

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I just checked Bike Bandit for the Link Lead for this project.
$10 for the part.
$79.13US for the postage to Aus.
That is a dry ass rape price for a pissy little piece of wiring.

It’s only $45 in Austria.
Bike Bandit can suck my left nut.
 

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I applied Sparti’s fix in March 2017 on my 2006 S3. It’s now Feb 2019, and my stator is no longer (chronically) failing.
I replaced the smaller 2006 stator & rotor with a larger circumference 2009 stator & rotor.
Before this fix the stator chronically failed.
I hope this helps :0)
 

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I applied Sparti’s fix in March 2017 on my 2006 S3. It’s now Feb 2019, and my stator is no longer (chronically) failing.
I replaced the smaller 2006 stator & rotor with a larger circumference 2009 stator & rotor.
Before this fix the stator chronically failed.
I hope this helps :0)
How many miles did you put on the bike since the stator/rotor/cover replacement ?
 

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How many miles did you put on the bike since the stator/rotor/cover replacement ?
About 3,000 miles. I consistently get about 13 volts from the battery, which I replaced with the stator upgrade. I replaced the battery with the last two bad stators, and the battery would eventually fail after the stators burnt out. I also repositioned the regulator rectifier (CompuFire, 3 phase) at the front of the bike to improve cooling. But I don’t think the reg/rec was causing the stators fail.
 

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About 3,000 miles. I consistently get about 13 volts from the battery, which I replaced with the stator upgrade. I replaced the battery with the last two bad stators, and the battery would eventually fail after the stators burnt out. I also repositioned the regulator rectifier (CompuFire, 3 phase) at the front of the bike to improve cooling. But I don’t think the reg/rec was causing the stators fail.
I think 3k miles is too short of a distance to judge the longevity of the repair. How many miles did you ride in between each of the last two stator failures ?
 

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We also got 1500km out of Bucket's after it failed also, by pulling the head light globes.
 

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Stator stopped getting fried once I replaced the R/R with Compufire and headlights with LED's (so the whole system now draws about 1/2 the current of what it used to). More than 20k miles since that change and everything seems to be running fine. Before that mod. I was getting between 7k to 10k miles per stator (yeah, I tried MOSFET R/R too). I think the secret to stator longevity, is to minimize the current draw, which a combo of series R/R + LED headlights does.
 

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Stator stopped getting fried once I replaced the R/R with Compufire and headlights with LED's (so the whole system now draws about 1/2 the current of what it used to). More than 20k miles since that change and everything seems to be running fine. Before that mod. I was getting between 7k to 10k miles per stator (yeah, I tried MOSFET R/R too). I think the secret to stator longevity, is to minimize the current draw, which a combo of series R/R + LED headlights does.
Interesting, makes sense though. Based on the experience I had with my 07', I also think it makes a difference depending on what the bike is used for. I think a a bike used consistently in heavy traffic with a lot of stop and go is a lot more likely to become toast. Living in a town with just three stoplights surrounded by hundred of miles of highways and twisties, I ended up spending very little time on my 07' sitting still idling with very little air flow while powering all the lights. With a completely stock stator/ R/R setup and old school bulb lighting throughout, I was able to go from 10k miles on the bike at the time of purchase, to well past 30k before it got wrecked without a hint of trouble.
 

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I think the secret to stator longevity, is to minimize the current draw..
The secret to stator longevity is to reduce heat. Heat causes resistance, resistance causes heat, thermal runaway, and that leg of the stator fries.

-'05-'07 you can reduce heat by

1. modifying it with '08-'10 parts that increase the stator/rotor mass, improving the heat sink effect, and improving the oil bath cooling
2. upgrade to a MOSFET R/R that works more efficiently than stock, bleeding more heat out of the stator. Leaving in standard bulbs that pull more power, leaving less to shunt by the R/R
3. upgrade to a SERIES style R/R that actually limits the stator to only putting out what the bike requires at any given time, using LED lights will reduce this requirement
4. trade your vastly less mechanically sound and attractive '05-'07 in for a mechanically superior and much better looking '08-'10
5. buy a BMW ADV bike or a KLR650


2=meh
1=good
1+2=better
1+3=hella good
4=bestlife
5=hekkn lame
 

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Fear leads to anger. Anger leads to hate. Hate leads to suffering.
 

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Heat leads to resistance. Resistance leads to thermal runaway. Thermal runaway leads to suffering.
 

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Horniness leads to being charming and cunning. Charming and cunning gets you laid. Getting laid leads to kids. Don't get horny.

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