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stock cans

2K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Roulettetriple 
#1 ·
I remember over on t-rat where someone removed the baffles out of the stock cans, but has anyone ever just took a long drill bit to them? Not too drastic, but maybe just a 3/8" - 1/2" hole in the center? Perhaps even open them a little more after that?
 
#2 ·
I remember reading where someone had used a 1 inch spayed bit to drill through the catalyst.

After this weekend, I can ship you a set of stock cans to play with. You pay shipping, and they are yours!

Another place to do some clean up work is the stock mid-pipe. Where it connects to the header, it has a rolled edge to make it slip on easier. If you grind this opening a bit larger, it flows better. ;)
 
#3 ·
I got the Chains on order. Bob had to modify the mid pipe cause I got the '07 and those should be coming pretty soon. I was just thinking of playing around a little before they get here. I wonder if I drilled a hole in the baffles if I would need to load another tune...
 
#9 ·
I used a long drill to drill couple of 6mm holes to the divider plate in the middle of the cans. Improved the sound quite nicely.

Do not drill through the catalyzer. It will do more harm to flow than any good. The rolled comb cat does not hurt flow too much at all. Drill through the plate only.
 
#15 ·
HarriS said:
I used a long drill to drill couple of 6mm holes to the divider plate in the middle of the cans. Improved the sound quite nicely.

Do not drill through the catalyzer. It will do more harm to flow than any good. The rolled comb cat does not hurt flow too much at all. Drill through the plate only.
The plate on the side exiting the can, or the mid-pipe side (if there is a plate on that side)? How much space on the other side of the plate is the cat? Meow?
 
#16 ·
The cat is a couple of inches inside the can. The flow makes a couple of bends after that through a series of baffles.

The TORS design uses the same can, but simply goes straight through. It would be easier to cut the cans apart, and weld a perforated tube inside wrapped with fiberglass, and packed with 'glass and/or Stainless steel wool.

You could even keep the cat in place and not lose much - if anything, with a near stock bike.
 
#17 ·
I called Jet Hot today and they quoted me $195 plus shipping ($25) for their sterling coating inside and out. Lifetime guarantee and said it would take about 5 bus. days. So I figure when my chains get here, I'll remove the precat, clean up the header ports and send the headers and chains mid-pipe in to get coated. Then pack the stock cans with a little C-4 and see how loud they really are.
 
#18 ·
Roulettetriple said:
Then pack the stock cans with a little C-4 and see how loud they really are.
Funny story (at least to me):
Several years ago, I was invited to go with a friend to test his new outboard boat racing engine on the dyno - running a low percentage nitromethane/methanol mix of about 35% and help tune it with the new 180 pound per hour injectors, that they had bought from the Penske F1 team.

We ran about 6 pulls on the dyno, and got the tune nearly dialed in. Then we did a full power pull.
It seems that each pull was building up nitro and methanol in the dyno's exhaust and muffler. On the full power pull, this fuel in the exhaust ignited!

The dyno exhaust blew into fragments (nothing bigger than 4 inches square), the metal door on the dyno room was blown off the hinges, and the bullet proof glass window that looks into the room from the operator's control station was blown loose in its frame. :eek:

The engine was fine. We unbolted it from the dyno and flushed it out with gas. As we were loading the engine and tools back into the truck for the ride home, the shop owners asked us not to bring a nitro engine back there again. ;D
 
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