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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I met up with Hoostine a couple of days ago, and he brought up a good question that I had forgotten about, and that some may not know about - throttle adjustment. Many of us take this kind of work for granted, and as a result, others never learn how easy it is to do by themselves.

When I first bought my 1050 S3, I liked the quick action throttle, but the play in it made power delivery kind of abrupt and jerky. I adjusted the cable at the grip, but it still had play in it before the throttle was opened. I HATE sloppy throttles and loose cables. (The word HATE is not strong enough...) So I adjust throttle play on all my bikes.

I removed the tank and airbox and looked at the cable end that attaches to the throttle body. I found that this was the culprit.

On the right hand side of the throttle body, the cable is routed to the throttle cam. There are a set of nuts that can be loosened and moved outward to reduce cable play. Then the nuts are tightened to lock them in place. This makes a big improvement in the throttle action.

By reducing the cable slack, you will not have to twist your wrist nearly as far as before to reach wide open (WOT). And transitions between part throttle to WOT and back again, are much more controlled - especially in the twisties. I also found that I soon was able to determine throttle position by the angle of my wrist much easier than before.

If you have not done this, it is a simple adjustment, that requires simple hand tools, and makes riding much more enjoyable.

nothing fancy, but I hope it helps.
 

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cheapbastard said:
good post Devi. :wave:
+1 I was going to do this the other day while I was changing my oil, but the gas tank was nearly full and kind of a PITA to move around, so I decided to hold off on it.

What kind of connectors are on the gas lines under the tank? Are they difficult to remove and reinstall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tank connections:
1- Fuel line. Quick release clip with one way valve on tank. Fuel will dump from fuel line if you do not keep the end held up.

2- Vacuum line to Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor. Routed from throttle body.

3- Tank overflow and air lines (one each). the one on left (outside) is the one with the plastic disc valve. Lines are routed to below engine near crankcase.


On the airbox, there are two bolts on the rear (near seat). There is also a crankcase breather line on right side. When putting airbox back on, make sure the throttle bores are sealed on ALL 3 throttles.
 
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I also dialed out most of the slack in my throttle cable, but I was able to do it at the grip end, which makes the job much faster. I'd suggest others start at the easily accessed end and go the the other end if the range of adjustment at the grip doesn't set the slack where you want it.

One other tip: confirm you have enough slack even at full steering lock. I found I needed to have a little slack with the handlebars straight to avoid having the cable pull taut and apply throttle as I turn the bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good points!

Definitely start at the grip end (you may or may not be able to adjust this). And if you need to adjust it tighter (as I did), then do so at the throttle body.

If you turn the bars to full lock left, you can take out all the remaining slack at the throttle body.

Thanks Curmudgeon.
 

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Curmudgeon said:
I also dialed out most of the slack in my throttle cable, but I was able to do it at the grip end, which makes the job much faster. I'd suggest others start at the easily accessed end and go the the other end if the range of adjustment at the grip doesn't set the slack where you want it.

One other tip: confirm you have enough slack even at full steering lock. I found I needed to have a little slack with the handlebars straight to avoid having the cable pull taut and apply throttle as I turn the bars.
I was going to do this too, but when I pulled the rubber sleeve back I couldn't see anything that looked like an adjuster??
 

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Yeah. I'm a dumb ass too and can't adjust the cables even with the instructions :D I need illustrated instructions :) Which part is "knurled locknut" and "adjuster sleeve"? ??? :sign5:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, yet again, I am unclear.

On the throttle, you can only adjust the angle, not the cable tension. The adjustment nut that is mentioned in the manual is not on my bike. So far, the manual is correct about 50% of the time - just not this time.

On the throttle body, you should see the cable tube that can be tightened and loosened inward and outward to adjust cable slack. It will have a lock nut on the inside side.

loosen the lock nut and rotate the assembly until the cable slack is reduced. Tighten lock nut.

Did this do any good, or just make things worse?
 

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Yet another good post Dev.
I mean to do mine but am a bit lazy.....
MH
 
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Devious2xs said:
On the throttle, you can only adjust the angle, not the cable tension. The adjustment nut that is mentioned in the manual is not on my bike. So far, the manual is correct about 50% of the time - just not this time.
Hi Devious,

What do you mean by adjusting the angle of the throttle? I can't think how changing the angle would make any difference because it's just a round tube (ie you can grip it at any angle you like). I always adjusted my S3 and ST at the throttle body but if there's an easier way I'm keen to hear it.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Speedy1050 - I like to adjust the angles of the bar and grip switches when I first get my bike. I generally adjust the throttle cable at the same time. On my S3, the throttle cable cannot be adjusted at the grip end - despite the manual.

If your bike matches the manual, then start by adjusting the cable at the grip, before working on the throttle body end.
 
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Devious2xs said:
On the throttle, you can only adjust the angle, not the cable tension. The adjustment nut that is mentioned in the manual is not on my bike.
Weird, my '06 has a tension adjuster at the grip end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Curmudgeon said:
Devious2xs said:
On the throttle, you can only adjust the angle, not the cable tension. The adjustment nut that is mentioned in the manual is not on my bike.
Weird, my '06 has a tension adjuster at the grip end.
Upgrade for 2006! ;D

I have stopped trying to figure out what and why Triumph changes mid year and year to year. I am not sure even they have a clue.
 

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I had the mechanic take up the slack on my first tune-up. Will the cable stretch after awhile? After 3000 miles it still doesn't have any slack.
 
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I don't know that I'd blame Triumph in particular. I haven't had a huge amount of experience but I know that a couple of Toyota utes I've worked on have both had a random mix of parts off about three different models. I think it's pretty standard to change various part suppliers or even just part models from the same supplier.

Funny you should mention your dealer adjusting your cables for you Skydakine. I had an ongoing battle with my first Triumph dealer who kept un-adjusting my clutch on me. Triumph specifies very little slack in the clutch cable and I personally think it works better this way. The dealer had other ideas...

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
speedy1050 said:
I don't know that I'd blame Triumph in particular. I haven't had a huge amount of experience but I know that a couple of Toyota utes I've worked on have both had a random mix of parts off about three different models. I think it's pretty standard to change various part suppliers or even just part models from the same supplier.

Phil
Phil,
I don't blame Triumph for changing suppliers, or even using different parts. But they do not even try to track what VINs are effected, and provide updates to the shop manual for the differences. As a result the dealer service system is broken... badly. This is definitely Triumph's doing.
 
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