Throwing a code...

The cheapest thing is to get it to the dealer, and tell them NOT to work on it until they have checked the code, and then checked with you. If it is still under warranty.... real cheap.

And most of the new Chevys require a CanBus Scanner.

Mine came on late last year, so I called Triumph service and told them I was heading over. During the commute, of course, it went out. As I was halfway there already and I wanted to know what was going on, I continued on. It was a O2 sensor, and they told me to bring it back in if I saw the light again. 4k miles later and no lights...

They (I-90 Motorsports in WA) didn't charge anything.

To clear the code you have to run the bike for a certain minimum time (15 min sticks in my cobwebs) for 3 times. You can't just cycle power. Of course, if the fault persists it won't clear. If it does clear the CEL it will still be in memory for 40 cycles so the dealer can still diagnose the fault even if the light is off. The ultimate way to read the codes is with a TuneBoy.

The dealer can hook you up and read the code in 2 minutes flat but don't be shocked if they have a 1/2 hour minimum labor charge. If you get along well with them or they see a nice big labor charge in your future they might waive the diagnostic fee.

Yeah listen to this one. The service guy at erico motorsports here in denver just told me that if it's throwing a code b/c I took the battery out, that I would have to cycle it 40 times. I told him that I'd heard it was only 3 cycles to reset the light and 40 cycles to clear the memory, but he says NO! Is this a case of undertrained high paid service tech????

dr_gallup said:

To clear the code you have to run the bike for a certain minimum time (15 min sticks in my cobwebs) for 3 times. You can't just cycle power.

Click to expand...

That's about how I remember it too. 3 or 4 cycles at 15 minutes each...

Oddly enough, I've heard that unhooking the battery will engage the fault light, but when I put on my fly screen last week which required unhooking the battery and disconnecting the speedometer plug, I didn't get a light.

How is it running? All ok? It may just be a sensor/emissions garbage, but being wrong could cost much more than 1/2 hour of diagnostic time easily.

If I'm reading my service manual correctly, disconnecting the battey will log in Diagnostic Trouble Code P0560, 3 no-fault cycles will turn the light off, and 40 no-fault cycles will erase the DTC code.

Stupid mechanics that know less than I do, when all I did was read a public forum really piss me off!  Why am I paying them $70+/hour???  Why do people get paid that don't know shit about what they're getting paid for!!!    :beer: :finger:  I'll buy a tuneboy or something.  Fuck the triumph dealership, I'll do it myself.