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Throwing Some Codes

681 Views 18 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  TripleWill
Hi guys,
I have a wonderful 2005 S3 which I love dearly. That being said it has been running rough on idle, and during constant speeds. The issue seems to disappear while accelerating and only appear when the RPM's settle. It feels like the bike is misfiring on one of the cylinders when the issue is present. I tried to have a triumph dealer take a look and 3 weeks after the date they promised to hook it up they finally do. After discussing on the phone my options they send me a list of codes and implicilty suggest I get it out of their shop as they wont get it on the stand again for another few weeks. The codes are as follows:
  • p0108 manifold absolute psi sensor open or short to 5v supply
  • p0113 IAT open or short to 5v supply
  • p0201-p0202-p0203 (all Injectors) circuit malfunction
  • p0351-p0352-p0353( all Injectors again) injector malfunction
  • p0460 fuel level circuit malf.
The tech also added the note "idles very poorly and misfire, fuel ecu is trying to correct for the running issue and seems to be very lean. need to remove air-box and inspect components"

This seems to paint a somewhat clear picture of what the issue could be (the fuel system), but I would also appreciate some advice and ideas from people who have worked with type of issue before. I will also add that I am also not afraid of investing time and money in the proper tools and parts to do it right (Tuneboy, new Injectors ect.). I would just appreciate some direction in what to get :)

I am planning to get her ready to take from the Boston area (where I am now) back to eastern WA this summer. I would very much like to make it there too. Thanks.
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That's a lot of codes to get all at once. I'm surprised it runs at all. Sometimes when an engine runs poorly and almost stalls it will throw some spurious codes. I would get TuneBoy or TuneECU. Then I would make sure the battery is fully charged. Then clear all the codes, start it up and run the 12 minute tune (don't touch the throttle and let it idle for 12 minutes then shut it off). That will reset all the adaptives in the ECU mapping. Check what if any codes you have now. Maybe reset any codes and run the engine a short time to see if they come back. Hopefully you will be down to one or two codes that will let you zero in on the problem.

You might want to start with what they suggest about pulling the airbox and checking all the hoses and electrical connections. Then do what I said above. Do you have a service manual? I uploaded on in a post a few weeks ago.
Thanks for the reply Dr-
I think I may have downloaded your manual already. As far as the hoses under the airbox goes, I have been down there 2 times already on my own previously trying to hunt down this issue. On my last disassembly I found a small 2-prong connector that had nothing attached tucked away below the injectors which I had taken note of. I was hoping the shop would handle this stuff for me but they seem to only have an interest in wasting time and charging me money. After seeing the codes though it could have something to do with p0108 and p0113 codes, maybe the sensor is not plugged in.
I do appreciate the advice on the tuning. I will do some research and purchase one of the programs and connectors tonight. As far as the injector system goes, the codes seem to suggest they are having issues and I will no doubt be taking the whole fuel system out this weekend for a look. It turns out a single injector is about $200 :oops: so I do hope there is another solution. I will keep the thread updated as I go.
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I do think some of those codes are spurious. When engines are running poorly a lot of stuff is going on that can cause misleading codes to be set. I had a plug wire fall of on my Corvette and I got a bunch of codes, none of them related to a missing plug wire including "service traction control system" etc. Highly unlikely to have one bad injector let alone 3.

There is an extra plug of two down there. If you don't see anything to plug in then don't worry about it. May be canister purge or something your bike does not have.
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Quick Update:
Over the weekend I completely removed the front end and to Re-do the fork seals. While I was there, I continued to disassemble clean and reassemble where I could. The Fork seals did take time and there were a few custom tools I had to make but was not too difficult. Certainly worthwhile. Now I am back on track with what this thread was originally about. I ordered TuneBoy from Australia and just now got the conformation email. Probably at least a week out. As of right now I have removed the Fuel system from inside the tank and am looking for any apparent issues. The Service manual (thanks @dr_gallup ) suggests the filter be changed at 20k miles which is still a 2k miles out and the impedance over the filter seems rather minimal. I do fear the pump may be bad, but I have no way of knowing. It looks fine. I did however find that the IAT lines were split at the nipple which I repaired with no noticeable difference in the misfires/ stutters.
I am committed to getting this machine working as well as she can, I am just not sure what to try next. I really appreciate the engagement and appreciate any suggestions. Maybe I will link a video of how she sounds if anyone is interested.
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Got her back together, no change.
I have been doing a little thinking while working and decided it might be worth checking the valve clearances. I have no idea when the valves were checked last, and I am up to the task. I did read somewhere that carbon can buildup on the valve seats, and I wonder if it would be worth trying to de-carbonize somehow before performing said check. I realize asking this question might expose me as a newbie but have faith, I have a torque wrench. I will probably attempt this tomorrow after work, so any advice would be majorly appreciated.
Checking valve clearance is a good idea and pretty easy. Just be sure to get new gaskets before you start. I've never heard of carbon building up on the seats. There is a lot of seating pressure and also the flow velocity is high there. Carbon can build up on the backs of the inlet valves but it's not normal if you run good fuel. You can look right in on the inlets if you remove the airbox. Last time I looked mine were bright and shiny. I know there are people who swear by Seafoam to decarbon engines but I have a very dim view of snake oil mechanics in a bottle.
Update with some hopeful news. Used the snake oil referred to trickled in through injection vacuum hose plus some in a very low tank of fuel. Now idles and revs. Still to road test as UK road rules are heavily enforced - no registration or certificate of fitness. So, to recap, new coils, replaced lambada sensor, iridium plugs, and seafoam. Looking to see how to compress the video for uploading.
Update with some hopeful news. Used the snake oil referred to trickled in through injection vacuum hose plus some in a very low tank of fuel. Now idles and revs. Still to road test as UK road rules are heavily enforced - no registration or certificate of fitness. So, to recap, new coils, replaced lambada sensor, iridium plugs, and seafoam. Looking to see how to compress the video for uploading.
Cool stuff James. I am still waiting for my tuneboy cable in the mail but in the meantime I had tried my buddies usb to obd with no luck. Could not connect error. I however going to check the valve clearances today and am actually waiting for her to cool off right now. I think new coils might be a worth trying so I will keep an eye on eBay. I also do already run iridium plugs. You could perhaps link a google drive with the videos and I could share some of mine there too. Best of luck
Hope this works. Not seen an idle like this for some time!! 60k mls btw. Google Drive: Sign-in
I just made a google drive where we can share videos and files and stuff. I made it open so anyone can view or upload. Here is the link. Speed triple - Google Drive
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So triplewill if that is your bike idling currently wondering what your concern is 😐
Mines now uploaded to the speed trip site 👍 thanks will
Haha I know it seems pretty tame in that video but once she’s been warmed up it gets significantly worse. Also the CEL in that vid was not related. Though when driving at speed the engine misfires frequently to the point where it’s almost jerking. I’m currently taking off the valve cover to check the clearances. And will keep updated
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I just received my tuneboy cable and am having “attempting to connect to ecu” and cannot get past this. I realize this is likely a driver issue but I cannot get it squared away.
Update: Still no luck with tuneboy. After a few hours of tinkering I got it to connect to the ECU twice. I have no idea why and was not able to replicated it again :(. Even when I was able to connect I was not able to load a map (even though it was the proper Keihin map) I would get a improper map error. Frustrating. I will try to reach out to support at some point in the future. I know a lot of people have had issues and I know the TuneBoy support is iffy but I do not plan on giving up.

My new valve cover gaskets arrived and I checked the valve clearances and was pleasantly surprised to find them all within spec. There was a small amount of carbon buildup on the pistons when I looked through the plug holes, not a concerning amount but I did try SeaFoam treatment. I ran her on 50/50 gas seafoam mix and found a small amount of the carbon left but nothing to write home about. Certainly would be more effective on an engine with more carbon buildup. I did however find a startling amount of slightly oily soot built-up in the SAI reed valves and system. Perhaps even enough to stop them from closing. I cleaned those out really well put her back together and she started right up. Same old problems persisted :(.

I have done quite a bit of reading on many threads and in the Service Manual and think I might be zeroing in on a potential cause. It seems that when the bike is on Idle, as well as a few other riding conditions, the ECU references the O2 sensor to try to determine a proper mixture for the engine. Now I only ever experience engine issues when at idle or while cruising at RPM's of about 4k-8k which is my reasoning behind the sensor being the issue. I even read that its common to disable it entirely through Tuneboy (if I could get it to work :rolleyes:). I tried this test which I don't fully trust but it came back with my sensor being bad. Maybe worth replacing.

I start my cross country journey tomorrow with plenty of stops, I feel confident that mechanically she will make it. I just worry the toll that this poor running will have on the engone over 2000 miles. Thanks again for the support Guys.
-Will
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Update from me also. Road test today failed 😞. Ran ok, but won't idle again. Lost and annoyed as won't be able to get annual MOT certificate therefore sitting doing nothing. Have a race shop recommended so may talk this week.
Enjoy the trip, I'm sure you'll be fine.
Man that sucks! Hopefully it’s nothing serious. I also hope that the shop can help. In my area I keep being told to piss off because of her age. Let me know what the problem ends up being, I’m interested as to what could cause your issue.
Update from me also. Road test today failed 😞. Ran ok, but won't idle again. Lost and annoyed as won't be able to get annual MOT certificate therefore sitting doing nothing. Have a race shop recommended so may talk this week.
Enjoy the trip, I'm sure you'll be fine.
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