I think the cupping is created when the block of rubber formed between the grooves deforms under load; either from braking, acceleration on the rear,or cornering. Because the chunk is deformed it wears more on one edge than the other. Appears to me to be more a function of tire design than riding style.
Tire Question...
Can someone give me any answers to how a front tire gets a cupping (raised ridge) down the middle and all the way around the tire?
I have just splashed out for a new tire and don't want to cause the same thing from happening - that is if it was me that caused it in the first place.
I have just splashed out for a new tire and don't want to cause the same thing from happening - that is if it was me that caused it in the first place.
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STOP PULL'N WHEELIES.......... :devil:
I have also heard the camber of the road can cause this too.Has happened to every tyre on every bike i have owned.I don't think there is anything you can do to stop it. :wave:
Ride it like a unicycle. Front tire can't wear if it ain't touching the ground. :horse:
Somewhere on this site, RaceComp posted a photo of one of his tires doing the same thing, but worse than I have ever seen - from riding hard with a passenger at the track.
G
I believe low tire pressure contributes to cupping in that when pressure is low, the tire deforms more under load and wears unevenly. This is consistent with my experience, too. In particular, I went through about eight front Pirelli Scorpion tires on my R1100GS. For my first few sets of tires, I ran front pressure at something like 32-34 pounds and had problems with cupping. When I increased it to about 36 pounds, my cupping problems went away and I never had cupping on any of the subsequent tires.
I run the front at 35 pounds on my S3 and have had no problem with cupping on either Pilot Powers or Pirelli Corsa IIIs.
I run the front at 35 pounds on my S3 and have had no problem with cupping on either Pilot Powers or Pirelli Corsa IIIs.
I believe low pressure is the likely problem.
Bridge-rocks BT series of old were real bad for cupping, I think it is the tread pattern that makes it cup. Pilot Powers or Pirelli Corsas have a better tread pattern and it's not an issue with them.
I use Pirelli Super Corsa SC1 front and SC2 rear tyres, the slicks are the same compound as the road tyres. I now run 26 psi in the front hot, which gives you a large contact patch on the track under brakes and mid corner.
Please be careful if you try this type of low pressure riding. It works for me on the track. I have a picture of me mid corner that shows the rear tyre at work, the contact patch is big. I hadn’t noticed it before then. Under hard breaking the contact patch on the front tyre is bigger than the size of your hand, that sort of contact gives you awesome stopping power under real hard breaking even deep into the corner of the bend you can still carry a heavy front brake.
Do a test if you like, find a straight bit of road make sure no one is around and try slowly applying the front brake to the max to see if you can momentarily lockup the front wheel.
First try high psi say 37 psi hot then try 28 psi and repeat the test.
You will be hard pushed to lock up the front wheel and your braking distance will be much shorter. Less tyre pressure = more grip. (Don’t pull the brakes to fast you will lockup the wheel)!!!! Slowly apply pressure to the max and keep you ass on the back of the seat to keep the rear wheel planted, this slow application allows the bike to transfer all its weight to the front tyre. For faster riding you should always carry some amount of front brake into the corner, this keeps more pressure on the front tyre and gives you grip. If you let go just before you tip into the corner it’s likely to lowside you because it’s unloaded the front tyre.
Just a quick rant!!!!
I use Pirelli Super Corsa SC1 front and SC2 rear tyres, the slicks are the same compound as the road tyres. I now run 26 psi in the front hot, which gives you a large contact patch on the track under brakes and mid corner.
Please be careful if you try this type of low pressure riding. It works for me on the track. I have a picture of me mid corner that shows the rear tyre at work, the contact patch is big. I hadn’t noticed it before then. Under hard breaking the contact patch on the front tyre is bigger than the size of your hand, that sort of contact gives you awesome stopping power under real hard breaking even deep into the corner of the bend you can still carry a heavy front brake.
Do a test if you like, find a straight bit of road make sure no one is around and try slowly applying the front brake to the max to see if you can momentarily lockup the front wheel.
First try high psi say 37 psi hot then try 28 psi and repeat the test.
You will be hard pushed to lock up the front wheel and your braking distance will be much shorter. Less tyre pressure = more grip. (Don’t pull the brakes to fast you will lockup the wheel)!!!! Slowly apply pressure to the max and keep you ass on the back of the seat to keep the rear wheel planted, this slow application allows the bike to transfer all its weight to the front tyre. For faster riding you should always carry some amount of front brake into the corner, this keeps more pressure on the front tyre and gives you grip. If you let go just before you tip into the corner it’s likely to lowside you because it’s unloaded the front tyre.
Just a quick rant!!!!
My guess is low pressure, along with improper suspension settings. Cupping occurs with the tire bounces slightly. Check you pressures and get your suspension tunes for your weight.
+1I believe low pressure is the likely problem.
Cupping has four causes: tire balance, tire tread design, tire pressure, and suspension settings/wear.
If the tire is balanced, cupping is mainly due to low pressure.
Touring tires ridden like sport tires may cup because of the increased grooving, allowing more opportunity for tread deformation.
Keep the rants comming!!!racecomp said:Bridge-rocks BT series of old were real bad for cupping, I think it is the tread pattern that makes it cup. Pilot Powers or Pirelli Corsas have a better tread pattern and it's not an issue with them.
I use Pirelli Super Corsa SC1 front and SC2 rear tyres, the slicks are the same compound as the road tyres. I now run 26 psi in the front hot, which gives you a large contact patch on the track under brakes and mid corner.
Please be careful if you try this type of low pressure riding. It works for me on the track. I have a picture of me mid corner that shows the rear tyre at work, the contact patch is big. I hadn’t noticed it before then. Under hard breaking the contact patch on the front tyre is bigger than the size of your hand, that sort of contact gives you awesome stopping power under real hard breaking even deep into the corner of the bend you can still carry a heavy front brake.
Do a test if you like, find a straight bit of road make sure no one is around and try slowly applying the front brake to the max to see if you can momentarily lockup the front wheel.
First try high psi say 37 psi hot then try 28 psi and repeat the test.
You will be hard pushed to lock up the front wheel and your braking distance will be much shorter. Less tyre pressure = more grip. (Don’t pull the brakes to fast you will lockup the wheel)!!!! Slowly apply pressure to the max and keep you ass on the back of the seat to keep the rear wheel planted, this slow application allows the bike to transfer all its weight to the front tyre. For faster riding you should always carry some amount of front brake into the corner, this keeps more pressure on the front tyre and gives you grip. If you let go just before you tip into the corner it’s likely to lowside you because it’s unloaded the front tyre.
Just a quick rant!!!!
opcorn:
Sorry for the delay in getting back to this thread - thanks heaps guys. There is some wise advise to take on board. :drink:
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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