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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well, am wondering that sense the Tuneboy uses the O2 sensor voltages, what is lean and rich. as i understand that this is not a wideband sensor it is not the best way to tune, just want to get my bike running as good as i can. thanks for any help. and hope i am not asking a stupid question or something someone else has already asked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also is there a way to make it log while i ride? as i have not found that in any of the instructions. thanks
 

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There is no logging memory in the ECU.
You need to keep the bike connected to a laptop while riding. I use a backpack.

(voltage x 2) + 10 = AFR

You can also use a wideband unit like a Wideband Commander, or Innovate LM-1 to log and tune with the simulated narrow band output connected to the stock ECU.
 

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Devious2xs said:
There is no logging memory in the ECU.
You need to keep the bike connected to a laptop while riding. I use a backpack.

(voltage x 2) + 10 = AFR

You can also use a wideband unit like a Wideband Commander, or Innovate LM-1 to log and tune with the simulated narrow band output connected to the stock ECU.
That formula does not work with the oem narrowband sensor.
 

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The problem is that with narrow band, the voltage are not consistant, they jump around.

Tuning with a narrow band is not recommended.

If you look at the ratio at idle, you should be able to determine the target ratio in the map, and get a good idea for what this voltage represents. The problem is that stock ECU does not allow the narrow band sensor to correct when the target is richer than ~14.50:1. As a result, targeting 12.8:1 (for instance) is not going to be possible with the narrow band sensor - it simply does not have the range to do this.
 

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Sensor voltage A/F ratio Lambda
250mV 15,0:1 1,02
375mV 14,5:1 0,99
500mV 14,0:1 0,95
625mV 13,5:1 0,92
750mV 13.0:1 0,88
875mV 12,5:1 0,85
1000mV 12,0:1 0,82

This is one chart. I think the stoic should be about 500mV. The best power is somewhere in the 800mV region.
 

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LED 10 - 0.97V - 12.1:1
LED 9 - 0.88V - 12.7:1
LED 8 - 0.78V - 13.2:1
LED 7 - 0.69V - 13.8:1
LED 6 - 0.59V - 14.4:1
LED 5 - 0.49V - 14.9:1
LED 4 - 0.39V - 15.4:1
LED 3 - 0.30V - 16.0:1
LED 2 - 0.20V - 16.5:1
LED 1 - 0.10V - 17.1:1

Here is another one.
 

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Harris - those voltages are for wideband sensors, not the stock unit.

Corse - check into the Wideband Commander, and the products from Innovate Motorsports.
 

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Correct. WO2 is digital 0-5v.

Too early for my brain to work.

You still can't use it to tune accurately.
 

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Nope but it´s better than nothing anyway. At least you see if a hiccup is lean or rich one. If you tune it to 800-850mV at full throttle and 500-600mV at part throttle cruise, you are not far off.

There was life before wideband sensors and the machines were in tune back then too. ;).
 

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If you are going to get into tuning, a wideband set up is cheap insurance. Trying to get by with narrow band sensors is asking for trouble.

There are a lot of units on the market that will log data and help get the tuning close. But tuning to AFR is still not optimum.

On my S3, I have found that it wants less fuel (leaner ratio) and more timing advance at peak power, than at peak torque, and part throttle to full throttle transitions need to be richer for best throttle response. On a dynojet, you have to add more fuel down low 2500-3500 rpm) than the bike really wants on the street. But then again, how many really go WOT at 2500 rpm on the street? On a Dyno, you target a given AFR, then start bracketing each rpm/throttle position with fuel and timing to find best power - and ignore AFR.

Then you need to tune on the road for best transition and driveability. A Dynojet just doesn't load the same as real world conditions. And a rider that weighs 150 pounds is going to want different tuning on the street than one who weighs 250 pounds.
 

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I was looking at Innovate Motorsports and was wondering what kit would be the approriate one? Do I just need a new O2 sensor?
 

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Corse,
I have a LM-1 (for use on many vehicles) but it is kind of bulky for use only on a bike the LC-1 might be better.

Also, WBO2 just released a new unit and will soon release a cheaper display for it. It is small, accurate, and logs data that can be downloaded with a simple USB cable. Pricing will follow soon on the new units. I have been thinking about getting these to use on the bikes, boats, and Lotus.

http://wbo2.com/3a1/default.htm

The nice thing to have is a narrowband output so you can use a wideband sensor for logging and still output to the ECU. Simple and effective.
 
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