[haplo]

Hello.

Please forgive my ignorance in this isuse, I just got my Tuneboy a few days ago, and the last bike I tuned was carbuerated, so I'm new to this stuff.

I have an 07 S3 with the Arrow 3-in-1 from the dealer. They downloaded a tune into it when I purchased the bike from them. According to the TuneEdit, it was tune 20131, "1050cc Speed Triple with Arrow exhaust with secondary air injection". I didn't think Triumph would use a Tuneboy tune... So is the Tunedit software incorrectly identifying the tune, or is that tune the same tune that Triumph would use with that pipe?

I have recently replaced the stock air filter with a K&N filter, and blocked off the SAI air intake ports (haven't gone through the trouble of removing it and blocking off the reed valves, I may one day).

I have since loaded tune 20132, "1050cc Speed Triple with Arrow exhaust without secondary air injection".

I have a rough idle, and I didn't know about the ISVC thing, so I think after I make it out to the garage today and adjust it, it may fix that problem.

But, what I'm really wondering about is this: How much more performance am I going to gain by going through the trouble (and expense) of using a dyno with my bike, over using the Tuneboy tune that I am? Since my bike pretty much matches that tune description perfectly, is it an optimal tune, derrived from a dyno, or is it some mathematical guesswork done by Wayne to be 'good enough' as a starting point to really start tuning?

Also, I'm mainly interested in getting lower end grunt than I am top speed out of the S3. What should I be looking for, if I start to play with the datalogger and try to adjust things in that regard?

Thanks alot. Sorry I'm new to this. I've read through a lot of the how-to posts for the Tuneboy, but I didn't see all of my questions answered.

Thanks,
H.

 

[haplo]

One more question. When I did the ISCV reset, the lowest the voltage went down to was .605, and when I clicked it again, it went to .770, which is a bit higher than the range it is supposed to go to, correct? How do I adjust it from here?

Thanks,
H.

 

[premier]

OK so the basic idea of tuneboy is that it allows you to alter the tune and download them straight to your ECU just like they do in the factory. They don't use tuneboy in the factory, but the idea and the maps downloaded are same format.

Triumph has done their own map for stock S3 through a lot of time on the dyno. It's the nearly optimal map for a stock bike. Similarly all the maps provided by triumph (like the arrow tune) are optimal tunes for that exhaust system. When you alter some components like exhaust or air intake it causes the bike run lean/rich. At that point you need to adjust the maps get the right AFR throughout the power band.

When you have a tuneboy you have two options. The best option is to go to a dyno and adjust the maps for your own bike (each bike is different) with tuneboy. The other way is to use some tune that is available on the internet and most resembles the system your running yourself and download it to your bike.

 

[dfib]

One more question. When I did the ISCV reset, the lowest the voltage went down to was .605, and when I clicked it again, it went to .770, which is a bit higher than the range it is supposed to go to, correct? How do I adjust it from here?

Thanks,
H.

To get it set you need to remove the tank, airbox, and throttle bodies to access the TPS (Throttle position sensor)on the left side of the throttle body. Loosen up the TPS sensor and reset the Iscv following the directions on the tuneboy. You may also need to change the position of the nut on the ISCV on the right side of the throttle body. Not difficult, but daunting the first time you do it.

Good luck! :eboy:

 

[haplo]

To get it set you need to remove the tank, airbox, and throttle bodies to access the TPS (Throttle position sensor)on the left side of the throttle body. Loosen up the TPS sensor and reset the Iscv following the directions on the tuneboy. You may also need to change the position of the nut on the ISCV on the right side of the throttle body. Not difficult, but daunting the first time you do it.

Good luck! :eboy:

I'm not opposed to doing it, if it needs to be done, but is it going to make much difference adjusting it, for the amount its off? .605 volts base, .770 volts when its supposed to be .725. As far as I can tell, it seems to run ok. Just wondering what it'll gain me, as I don't see much info on Tuneboy's site about ISCV

H.

 

[haplo]

I was hoping someone would chime in though and say whether or not the Tuneboy tunes are based on a dyno, or whether they are based on some mathematical theory as to what should be good for a particular setup.

Anyone?

H.

 

[HarriS]

Tuneboy tunes are user configurable. Some are good, some are bad. Every Tuneboy tune is made by some person. Usually they are modified from TOR tunes, stock tune or Arrow tune for example. Some have used dyno, some have tuned seat of the pants. There is no general rule that a tuneboy tune is better than factory tune. Tuneboy is just a software that allows you to modify the tables of the tunes. It is up to the tuner how good the tune ends up.

 

[dfib]

To get it set you need to remove the tank, airbox, and throttle bodies to access the TPS (Throttle position sensor)on the left side of the throttle body. Loosen up the TPS sensor and reset the Iscv following the directions on the tuneboy. You may also need to change the position of the nut on the ISCV on the right side of the throttle body. Not difficult, but daunting the first time you do it.

Good luck! :eboy:

I'm not opposed to doing it, if it needs to be done, but is it going to make much difference adjusting it, for the amount its off? .605 volts base, .770 volts when its supposed to be .725. As far as I can tell, it seems to run ok. Just wondering what it'll gain me, as I don't see much info on Tuneboy's site about ISCV

H.

I'm not sure how much you'll gain, but after re-reading your post and mine I might have sent you too many steps. It looks like all you need to do is skip to the second step where you adjust the nut on the ISCV assembly... No pulling of the throttle bodies. 6mm wrench required. It should help smooth out the idle, but not 100% sure. Beyond that? ???

 

[Avi8or]

My take on the matter is that factory tunes have to meet certain legal criteria as regards noise, pollution and consumption. What we lot are interested in are BHP Torque and response not neccesarily in that order. If we have to sacrifice a bit of consumption then so be it. There are also enviromental variables to cater for. Someone up in a mountain in cold temps will probable need a different tune to what the factory deems 'ideal', as would someone at sea level in desert like temps.
Tuneboy and a good dyno operator should get your fuelling optimised for YOUR bike.
Besides the ISCV also check the balance between the throttle bodies.
Another possibility is that one or more plugs may be fluffed due to the very high stock prime pulse which basically pumps in too much fuel during start up. I think if you changed the prime pulse figure to something like 12800 you'd get better starting, lessening the possibility of a dud plug in the process.
Ideally get your bike tuned on a dyno to reap max benefit.

 

[HarriS]

Another possibility is that one or more plugs may be fluffed due to the very high stock prime pulse which basically pumps in too much fuel during start up.

Is that a fact? If so, could you please give more detail?

http://www.thespeedtriple.com/Forums/index.php?topic=391.15

The prime pulse is explained by several EFI manufacturers. The prime pulse cannot cause soot fouled plugs. All it can do is wet the plugs and the bike does not start at all but not with stock setting. It has to be really extreme to do that.