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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Overview updated for new TuneEdit versions up through v3.9.4.4:

TuneEdit 101 update

Time to update the old TuneEdit 101 thread. TuneEdit has evolved considerably since the old thread was written, and now offers even more control.

Let's start with the basics of fueling.
The F tables control fuel sprayed to each cylinder based on rpm and throttle position sensor (TPS). The Fuel % Trim table alters all of the F tables equally.

The L tables use the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor to control fueling under acceleration, and at low rpm. This is different from most cars where the MAP sensor tables are used at higher load and rpm because most cars do not use individual throttles per cylinder, and as a result do not have the resolution from the MAP sensor that is seen with individual throttles.

The F_L Switch table alters when the ECU changes over from being predominantly based on the MAP sensor (L tables) to the TPS sensor (F tables). But acceleration enrichment is still controlled by the MAP sensor even when the TPS is the primary sensor used. Altering the point where the engine changes from one table to the other can help to improve transient response and smooth out issues that can occur when the changeover is not smooth or occurs at an engine load and speed where intake and/or exhaust pulse tuning can be causing issues.

You need to use all of the above to tune for different engine speeds and loads. And to best tune for throttle response and acceleration.

The I tables are for ignition advance. I1 is in neutral. I2 is in gear. The Ignition Trim table alters the ignition timing in all cylinders. More is not better, and some of the stock tunes have more than the engine really wants. Just 2 degrees too much advance at high rpm or at peak torque rpm can drop 2% from the engine's output. Or it can cause the engine to ping at part throttle at low rpm under load or when the throttle is suddenly opened (burst knock).

The AFR table uses the narrow band Lambda (O2) sensor to keep the fuel delivered at low loads and engine speeds near optimum for best burn in the catalytic converters. If these have been removed... use your imagination. ;)

The Idle Speed table lets you alter the idle speed at different engine temperatures. This is different from setting the idle speed under EDIT on older versions of TuneEdit, and can help with idle issues when it is hot or cold outside.

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
TuneEdit 101

Tuneboy TuneEdit v3.2.00 instructions:
[For 2005-2006 1050 engines]

RTFM – Read The ------ Manual. Download and read the documentation for TuneBoy and TuneEdit. Some of it does not apply to later versions of TuneBoy/TuneEdit, but it is still good information to know.

Some of the following can be done even before you get a TuneBoy cable:

• Install software and drivers. Make sure you have the latest version update (3.2.00 as of this writing).
• In Tuneboy file, make a separate file for saving new tunes. Do not save these into the Tunes folder – make a new folder to save them into.
• Download all available tunes for your bike/ECU into this file.
• Connect cable to bike and turn bike key and power switch ON.
• Load Tune Edit and open tune for correct bike/ECU.

Select File.
Select Open.
Select the correct tune file from where you downloaded it.
[The TuneBoy folder is on your main drive under Program Files. Open this and select the second TuneBoy folder. All TuneBoy files should be here]

ECU serial number and type (for key):
In Options, under Properties:
Serial Port – Tuneboy Cable (Com X)
Cable type – 2
Tuning link Serial Port – Tuneboy Cable (Com X)
Wait time – 30
Select save

You may also need to select SLOW DOWNLOAD MODE as well.

Under Tools:
• Select “Get ECU Serial number”
• A window with the serial number should pop up.
• Send this serial number and bike model to [email protected]

Once you receive the tuning key for your ECU, add it to the correct box under Properties. Additional keys for different bikes can be purchased and added here as well.

*With you TuneEdit key installed, you can now install a tune. Open the tune you want to download. Click DOWNLOAD on bottom right of screen. Watch progress along bottom of window. Do not disconnect cable or turn off bike until download has completed.

*With aftermarket exhaust silencers, Wayne MacDonald's 20088Dyno39_tune is a very good starting point for non-SAI (Secondary Air Injection) bikes. The 20103_dyno tune is the same tune, but for SAI eguipped bikes. Both tunes have additional ignition advance added.

* Each time you install a new tune, you need to warm up the bike and use TuneBoy diagnostics (SENSORS page) to check the ISCV (idle speed control valve), also known as an idle speed servo. if it falls into the correct range, you are fine. If not, reset the ISCV.

*SAI removal does NOT make a difference in power. It does get rid of the popping in the exhaust when you decellerate. It also allows for a more stable O2 reading due to the exhaust not being diluted with air under certain conditions.

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tune Constants:
Under Edit, there is a selection for Tune Constants. Opening this will allow you to alter the wheel speed constant (2566 factory constant) to make the speedometer read more accurately at a given speed.

You can also alter the idle speed rpm when using the NOVICE MODE. The factory idle is 1300 rpm, but idle speed as low as 1100 rpm have been used effectively. For track days, raising the idle speed as high as 1500 rpm (or even higher) can help with throttle response on low speed turns when you are on and off the throttle.

The Prime Pulse adjusts the amount of fuel added when the bike is first started. This is an additional amount of fuel added to the amount in the look up tables. Adjusting this may help the bike’s initial start up. Triumph sets this value at 20400 but a setting of 12800 may be better to prevent flooding on startup especially if the throttle is opened when starting.

Each tab on the top of the window selects a table that is made up of cells for each throttle position and rpm point (load). Together these cells are a map that tells the ECU what to do at a given throttle position and rpm.
Click on a cell to select it, or drag the cursor to select several cells. Use the page up and page down buttons on your keyboard to adjust selected cells.

The main Fuel Trim and Ignition Trim tabs allow you to adjust fuel percentage and ignition timing in 0.1 degree increments in all cylinders.

The AF tab adjusts the target air/fuel ratio for the oxygen sensor. Units below 14.50 will not use the oxygen sensor (in closed loop mode) for correction. Throttle percentage above 6% will not use closed loop mode, instead the ECU uses the fuel tables directly – with offset for air temp and engine temp.

F1, F2, F3 tabs allow adjustment of fuel in each cylinder in large or very small amounts. The numbers shown in each cell are time open (flow of air in milligrams). These numbers are known as IJPU – Injector Pulse-width Units. To increase by 1%, multiply the number in the cell by 1.01.

I1, I2, I3 tabs allow adjustment of ignition timing. I1 – when bike is in neutral. I2 – when bike is in gear. I3 – I have yet to determine when this is used, but this may be for higher gears.

L1, L2, L3 tabs allow adjustment of fueling at small throttle positions (6% and below) and are referenced by manifold pressure. The ECU uses these tables at low throttle position for greater accuracy at cruise and idle speeds as well as during deceleration.

For reference, the firing order for the Triumph 3-cylinder engines is 1-2-3, with cylinder #1 being the left most cylinder. The engine is a four-stroke design, meaning that each cylinder fires once in every two rotations (i.e. – it takes 2 revolutions of the engine for all three cylinders to fire one time). The cylinders fire 240 degrees apart.

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dyno Tuning info:

*In some cases, Triumph refers to the oxygen sensor on the bike as a Lambda sensor, for good reason - it is not an oxygen sensor, it is actually called a Lambda sensor.

Due to the nature of the stock oxygen sensor, or the units on many dynamometers, the engine can rev more quickly than the O2 sensor can respond. This means the air/fuel ratio displayed can be off by up to 1000 rpm – displaying the AFR at a lower rpm than is actually the case.

At different rpm and throttle positions, the cylinders tend to have different abilities to fill the cylinders - mostly due to exhaust pulse wave interaction, but also due to air box and intake design issues. A different filling ability means different cylinder pressures will be developed.

Also, different cylinders have different abilities to pull heat from the bores and chambers in the block and in the head. Mostly this is due to the circulation of water and oil.

As a result, at a given rpm and throttle position, the cylinders trap different amounts of air, causing different cylinder pressures. Ignition timing is all about cylinder pressure, and making the most of what you have and controlling when it hits peak pressure in relation to the crankshaft's rotation.

Making peak cylinder pressure before the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) will harm your engine. If you make peak cylinder pressure when the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), the piston, connecting rod, and crank are all vertically aligned. This means the pressure in the chamber cannot be effectively transferred to the crank for rotation and bad things happen quickly. However, if you make peak cylinder pressure when the piston, rod and crank are aligned to best transfer it into rotation, you make more torque and the resulting increased power.

I haven't sat down and figured the geometry out for the 995 and 1050 engines, but generally, somewhere around 20-25 degrees ATDC when the parts are best aligned. The burn rate of the fuel used, the compression ratio, chamber design, etc. all play a part in how and when peak cylinder pressure is made - with other factors as well. But the ignition timing is when the burn starts, and is key in when this pressure is developed in the power cycle.

The down side is that any cylinder pressure in the cylinder prior to the piston reaching its apex in the bore (TDC) robs torque being developed by the other cylinders (a type of pumping loss). So a compromise must be found for best power.

Generally speaking, if you add more ignition advance without detonation, the engine will also want a touch more fuel to make best power. But fuel can also be used to prevent detonation due to its cooling properties. A higher octane fuel will also reduce the chances of detonation.

If you can measure cylinder pressure and detonation in each cylinder, and/or the levels of each major exhaust gas, you can adjust the fueling and timing for each cylinder for best power. Without these measurements, a good knowledge of the engine, tuning, and AFR can get you close on the dyno - with a lot of trial and error.

Once the bike is tuned close to optimum via a target AFR, each rpm point can be bracketed by adding and/or removing fuel to get max power at this rpm point. Then timing can be altered to do the same with small fueling changes to get maximum results.

*In some cases, adding timing advance will very slightly reduce the AFR reading at the O2 sensor due to the fuel/air mixture having more time to burn before the sensor can take a reading.

Another big part of this is preignition and detonation, but that is another complicated subject.

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Using TuneEdit on a Dynojet dynamometer with Tuning Link software:

Set up the TuneBoy to emulate a PCIII:
Select Tools tab.
Select Start PowerCommander Emulation.

Connect the dyno pc to your laptop running TuneBoy via a spare USB jack on laptop.

*The Tuning Link software will allow you to tune the bike at wide open throttle (WOT), and at reduced throttle positions. This improves driveability - especially in the areas just off idle, or when the throttle is suddenly increased and decreased.

*Start tuning at WOT, then gradually reduce throttle opening for consecutive pulls on the dyno.

Make a pull on the dyno (at a given throttle position) and a Dynojet will calculate trims to adjust the cells at this throttle position. You can alter cells manually, or simply click a button and the corrections will be made for you. Save each change in the map under a new name, so you can go back if the change actually makes LESS power.

Make another series of pulls at the same throttle position, and if no corrections are recommended, you are done with this throttle position. Generally several pulls will be required.

Change throttle position and make another pulls/adjustments until all load/rpm cells are corrected as required (mapped).

Now, IF you change ignition timing (which a PCIII will not do), you need to check air/fuel ratio again.

The 1050cc Speed Triple engine responds well to air/fuel ratios of 12.8:1 on many different of premium pump fuels. But changes to brand of fuel and octane level can alter what your bike wants for best power.

Note: This is ONLY tuning to AFR (air/fuel ratio), many times more power can be had at various rpm points than just targeting a given AFR. Multi-gas analysis can help in this. As can very accurate bracketing of the fuel and ignition adjustments.

Also, the load on a dyno may not be the same as the actual road load, and some on-the-road tuning can help get everything "just right". The TuneBoy datalogging software connected to a laptop when riding can help you tune while riding.

Power Commander maps/tunes can be downloaded and converted to TuneEdit maps using the Power Commander emulation. However, these PC tunes will not have altered ignition timing from stock.

This is not an “end-all, be-all” guide to using TuneEdit or tuning. It should help get you started and help you understand TuneEdit and general tuning.
Wayne MacDonald at should be applauded for bringing this great tool to us all.

I hope it helps.

· Registered
17,244 Posts
Devious said:
ECU serial number and type (for key):
In Options, under Properties:
Serial Port – Tuneboy Cable (com 7)
Cable type – 2
Tuning link Serial Port – Tuneboy Cable (com 7)
Wait time – 30
Select save
Hey Devi, just one small thing to add here. I don't think the serial port or tuning link serial port have to be Tuneboy Cable(com 7) I believe the # is just whatever the port is called on yer computer. When I finally got it to work on mine it showed up as Tuneboy Cable(com 4). Something very minor, but just thought there might be some out there that's almost as dumb as me. :-\ Btw, GREAT POSTING!!! ;D

Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good point (now edited). The COM port location can/will change based on each laptop.

I am SURE there are more screw-up in there. Keep 'em coming - it's a work "in progress".

By the way - ignore the T-RAT PM.

Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The following are two dyno charts with power and AFR. The first one is for Wayne Macdonald's 20088dyno_39tune and its variants. The second one is an old one of mine that still needed work.

(Above) Notice the differences in AFR between the stock run and tuning 39 runs later ?

(Below) notice the areas in the AFR curve where the fueling is still not right? Do you also see where they REALLY correspond to to the power/rpm graph? - The O2 sensor is lagging behind the actual rpm.

Note - you may need to click on the photos and use the arrow keys on your keyboard to move the pictures.

Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Littlefield - I got the timing tab info from Wayne Macdonald at TuneBoy, after I contacted him about the tabs differing from the documentation.

If you click the VIEW tab, and select NOVICE USER, the idle speed and prime pulse constants can be changed in the TUNE CONSTANTS box.

Also, I am using 2750 for the speedometer constant.

Discussion Starter · #11 ·
With the help of Avi8or, I made a few changes to the above posts. SOME are marked with an asterisk (*).

The following is something you might also want to know:

Air/Fuel mixture conversion chart (for gasoline)


lambda ---------- Air/fuel ---------- %CO
0.80 - - - - - - - - 11.8 - - - - - - - - 8.00 (RICH)
0.81 - - - - - - - - 11.9 - - - - - - - - 7.30
0.82 - - - - - - - - 12.0 - - - - - - - - 6.50
0.83 - - - - - - - - 12.2 - - - - - - - - 5.90
0.84 - - - - - - - - 12.4 - - - - - - - - 5.40
0.85 - - - - - - - - 12.5 - - - - - - - - 5.00
0.86 - - - - - - - - 12.6 - - - - - - - - 4.85
0.87 - - - - - - - - 12.8 - - - - - - - - 4.35
0.88 - - - - - - - - 13.0 - - - - - - - - 3.80
0.90 - - - - - - - - 13.2 - - - - - - - - 3.30
0.91 - - - - - - - - 13.4 - - - - - - - - 2.85
0.92 - - - - - - - - 13.5 - - - - - - - - 2.60
0.93 - - - - - - - - 13.7 - - - - - - - - 2.15
0.94 - - - - - - - - 13.8 - - - - - - - - 1.90
0.95 - - - - - - - - 14.0 - - - - - - - - 1.60
0.96 - - - - - - - - 14.1 - - - - - - - - 1.40
0.97 - - - - - - - - 14.3 - - - - - - - - 1.00
0.98 - - - - - - - - 14.4 - - - - - - - - 0.80 (2% rich mixture)
0.99 - - - - - - - - 14.6 - - - - - - - - 0.60
1.00_________ 14.7 _________0.50 (Stoichiometric)
1.01 - - - - - - - - 14.8 - - - - - - - - 0.60
1.02 - - - - - - - - 15.0 - - - - - - - - 0.30 (2% lean mixture)
1.03 - - - - - - - - 15.1 - - - - - - - - 0.15
1.04 - - - - - - - - 15.2 - - - - - - - - 0.20
1.05 - - - - - - - - 15.4 - - - - - - - - 0.15 (LEAN)

Changes in fuel will change the relationship of the AFR and %CO to lambda!!!

lambda - Optimum number for best power does not change with a change in fuel. And optimum number for a racing engine is very close to that of a road going engine. This is the most accurate way to measure mixture. But it is very expensive because the manufacturers of these units must pay the lambda company to use the technology. THIS IS A % OF MIXTURES OF AIR TO ANY FUEL.

Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) - Optimum ratio for best performance changes with fuel used and in each engine based on efficiency of combustion. THIS IS A RATIO OF PARTS OF FUEL TO PARTS OF AIR (ie. 14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel).

%CO (Carbon Monoxide) - The scale does not cover the same range as the lambda and AFR scales so any comparison is not an exact science, but rather, a close approximation. THE EFFICIENCY OF THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER AND COMPRESSION WILL ALTER THESE NUMBERS but this is a fairly accurate chart for gasoline based fuels in most engines. With extremely lean conditions the % becomes erratic as combustion becomes erratic.

· Registered
2,791 Posts
Devious said:
TuneEdit 101

Tuneboy TuneEdit v3.2.00 instructions:
[For 2005-2006 1050 engines]

*With you TuneEdit key installed, you can now install a tune. With aftermarket exhaust silencers, Wayne MacDonald's 20088Dyno39_tune is a very good starting point for non-SAI (Secondary Air Injection) bikes. The 20103_dyno tune is the same tune, but for SAI eguipped bikes. Both tunes have additional ignition advance added.
Devious, is the 20088Dyno39_tune for bikes that never had SAI or does it apply for those that have had it removed (ie does it keep the "check engine" light from coming on)?.......Since I have your ear............will removing the CA emissions canister cause any ECu issues/ check engine lights? If so, will said tune fix that issue?

I will be removing the canister for certain as it just clutters stuff up and most likely will be removing SAI at same time.

Excellent, informative posts. You have certainly been a guinee pig for many of us who don't have the time to experiment and I, for one, certainly appreciate it.

· Registered
5,196 Posts
The 20088 tune is for bikes that do not have the SAI. If you go with this tune you can safely remove all the SAI stuff without the check engine light coming on.
Canister removal should not cause any issues except maybe with you local emissions tester.

Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Avi8or is correct.
You can use the 20088dyno_39 tune after you remove SAI or on bikes that never had it.

The carbon canister is just like those used on new cars. The line from the fuel tank overflow feeds into the cannister where it can evaporate instead of dripping on the ground. No CELs will be lit when it is removed.

Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You have to keep a laptop connected to the ECU via the cable, but riding with a backpack makes it pretty easy once you get everything set up.

There have also been rumors of an Advanced Tuning feature coming from Tuneboy since last Spring... we'll see.

· Registered
729 Posts
Devious said:
There have also been rumors of an Advanced Tuning feature coming from Tuneboy since last Spring... we'll see.
What that might include? Something like Dynojet tuning link?

I have played with the software while waiting for the cable to arrive. The 3D map feature is great. You can really see the stock lean midrange. It is deliberately built in by programming false MAF values. Someone should analyze the true mass air flow map for the 1050 engine. Tuning would be a piece of cake after that.Do you have any good MAF maps for precat removed? The software seems so much more advanced than say PC.

Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have only hear rumors about the advanced tuning. Wayne will not comment on it yet. But I would ASSUME it would be like tuning link software in that you set a target AFR, and the software gives you recommended alteretions to specific cells in the map.

I have several decent maps for those who have removed their precat. I am waiting for Catahoulabulldog to allow uploading of the .dat (Tuneboy) files so I can upload them here.

· Registered
5,196 Posts
Using Tuneboy Diagnostics to test the Idle Stepper Motor

Connect the Tuneboy cable to the bike and the PC. Ensure the kill switch is on and switch on the bike’s ignition. Start Tuneboy Diagnostics and click on the Sensors light on top of the dash.
In the Sensors dash the second item on the second column is TPS volts. Make a note of the voltage. Mine was reading 0.705 volts.
Click on the reset ISCV button on the bottom left hand corner.
The voltage should go to 0.60 volts +/- 0.02 volts. Mine showed to .625 volts. If you twist the throttle you should notice an increase in voltage, and on shutting off the throttle mine went back again to .625 volts.
Click the reset ISCV button again and the voltage should increase by 0.12 volts. The Triumph manual states that this voltage increase should be 0.15 volts +/- 0.05 volts. Mine went to 0.79 volts.
Using my numbers as an example the final voltage should be 0.625 + 0.15 = 0.775 volts.
Since this voltage can be +/- 0.05 then anything between 0.825v and 0.725 would have been acceptable.
If your values are outside these parameters then you’re going to need the Triumph manual to reset the Idle Stepper Motor.
If the voltages are within limits then click the reset ISCV button again and don’t touch anything for 15 seconds.
When the scrolling message at the bottom of the green screen stops, click the reset adapt button on the bottom right hand side.

Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Avi8or - good work!

I also tracked down some info in the Tune Analyzer - it is not made by TuneBoy and the project has been dropped. It seems that the logging rate was not fast enough. The tuneboy datalogger is much better.

I guess I need to write up some info on advanced tuning. I use a wideband O2 sensor and LM-1 to record/log the data.
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