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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, I want to say that I try to help out others when and if I can - at each opportunity. I try to answer all emails and PMs as soon as I can, and have no issues with this.

But the number of recent questions and requests about tuning, leads me to believe that many think there is some black art to this. There is not. Just because you have never done it, doesn't mean that you cannot do it.

I am no engine guru, just someone with more experience than a lot of others here on this site. But IF there are any questions I can answer about tuning your bike, I will do so. I have been thinking about posting a Tuning 102 thread to help others with Tuneboy or PCIII do their own tuning on the dyno, or on the street. What do you all want to see in such an thread, and what questions do you have? Nothing is too basic, and/or stupid, all that matters is that you learn something.

With all of the new(er) Tuneboy owners and the ones that are getting in on the current group buy, I hope to be able to help - but please read the other thread on this site... Tuneboy tuning 101, in the 1050 section.

Please post up and let me know if this would be a worthwhile topic, and what you do not understand - even if it is about the other thread.

-Wayne
 

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Perhaps cover ignition advance/retard, basics of fuel mapping, how the functions work in Tuneboy, how to check your own CEL codes and such in the diagnostic Tuneboy software, loading tunes, most of what the Tuneboy website says, but with more clarity.

Right now, my Tuneboy software just refuses to work on my computer. I finally got Tunedit to load after wiping my registry of all Tuneboy data. Now I'm able to load a tune into Tunedit, but when the computer tries to communicate with the bike the software craps out, intermittently locks, and then stays running in the background with 50% CPU usage even when I close the program window... I'm going to hopefully get a chance to borrow a friend's laptop (non-dualcore), but I'm no longer feeling optimistic about this software.
 

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I am going the route of the PCIII, and of course I would be using street feedback since a dyno here is: Expensive; Hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
kuhlka,
I have a few issues with TuneBoy locking up every so often when I first try to use it after a few days. After that, it generally works fine. I use it mostly with a Pentium laptop with MS XP, but also have it on another laptop with Duocore and Vista. Vista is still a pain to use - nothing new there. :violent1:

I have found that you need to cut down on how much crap stuff is running in start up, and sometimes it takes a couple of installs to get it to work the first time. If you have any software for handheld units (Palm, etc.), turn it off. Now I simply copy all my files and install them on a new laptop to get it to work the first time.

If you want, I can send you a copy of my TuneBoy files to see if that works any better. I still have your email address. ;)

Save any tunes you have collected in a seperate folder and then put them in the new TB file.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
limey said:
I want 160 rwhp and 90lbs of torque.......by tuesday. Thanks.  :wave:
Easy.

Buy a Gixxer!













or let me install N2O (nitrous oxide) tonight.

Got Gas?

Want Some? ;)
 

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I want a supercharger on speedy! ;D Actually, I'm almost where I want to be. As soon as I ever get this pre-cat removed and maybe some more fine tuning, then I will almost be where I want... almost. :popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cheapbastard said:
Actually, I'm almost where I want to be. As soon as I ever get this pre-cat removed and maybe some more fine tuning, then I will almost be where I want... almost. :popcorn:
For about a week. Then you will want more.
 

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I have never put my S3 on a Dyno. Actually I don't know much about Dynos period. But it would be nice to get some info on how to go about getting the most out of a Dyno session (or several ) together with TB software.
This might not be a very precise sort of suggestion, but the idea is that you show up at the local Dyno Center with some understanding and with the ability to ask the right questions.
 

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Devious - Are you using a wide band O2 sensor? Data Logging? Those would be helpful, or at the very least super interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dfib - yes and yes. Plus knock sensor.

I am putting together some info on what I use for (and how I go about) tuning on the streets, but I want to make sure that others know the basics first.

Otherwise I will really make a mess.
 

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Insert Disclaimer: IF YOU FUCK UP YOUR BIKE BECAUSE YOU PROCEED WITH OUT ASKING QUESTIONS AND DOING ALL APPROPRIATE RESEARCH, NOT ONLY MAY YOU NOT HOLD DEVIOUS RESPONSIBLE, BUT YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO PROVIDE ROOM AND BOARD FOR CHEAPBASTARD, LIMEY, AND ICHIN FOR A MONTH SO THEY MAY SIT AROUND YOUR HOUSE AND RIDICULE YOU! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! :devil:
 

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Hey Devi,

I would definitely like to see some tuning tutorials for Tuneboy. I got in on this groupbuy and will have the kit by next Wednesday. Sparti is gonna loan me his old laptop so I will be good to go.

Only trouble is I'm one of those that think tuning is beyond me. I will have some questions. But I promise I will read everything on the tuneboy site and your tuneboy 101 thraed before I ask any stupid questions. I am looking forward to this. Bring it on.
 

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Can you reset the TPS on a 1050? I just looked over the manual and can't find any info... Granted the fat squirrel may be kicking my butt right now. If so tuneboy or tune edit?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dfib said:
Can you reset the TPS on a 1050?  I just looked over the manual and can't find any info...  Granted the fat squirrel may be kicking my butt right now.  If so tuneboy or tune edit?

Thanks
Yes and no. You cannot reset the TPS without actually loosening it and moving its position, but you can reset the Idle Speed Control Value (ISCV) - with the same result.
Simply start the bike and connect it to your computer. Open TuneBoy Diagnostics, then select the Sensors Page. Notice the TPS - is it within range (.58-.62)? At the bottom of the page simply click on Reset ISCV and the idle/TPS is reset.

I suggest checking this each time you change a tune in the ECU.

Also, realize that you can alter the target idle rpm in TuneEdit, and this will alter the idle voltage as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
timoteusmunk said:
I have never put my S3 on a Dyno. Actually I don't know much about Dynos period. But it would be nice to get some info on how to go about getting the most out of a Dyno session (or several ) together with TB software.
This might not be a very precise sort of suggestion, but the idea is that you show up at the local Dyno Center with some understanding and with the ability to ask the right questions.
Dyno tuning overview:

The bike is strapped to the dyno so that the tire is correctly placed on the roller - at the minimum tension required to prevent tire slip. The inductive pickup is placed around the coil wire on cylinder number 1 - left side. And then the oxygen sensor tube is placed into the exhaust. The dyno operator will also adjust the dyno software for a 3 cylinder engine, and enter your info for the bike. Generally the tuning is done in the gear that is closest to 1:1. I use 5th gear on my S3, others use 4th gear.

A lot of tuning results depend on how good your dyno operator is at tuning, and how much detail he will go into. On A DynoJet dynamometer (the most common), most operators will simply make a couple of pulls to get baseline power, torque, and air/fuel ratio (AFR) graphs. Then they turn on the Tuning Link software (for PCIII units) and enter a target AFR (12.8:1 is good for Triumph triples) and make another pull. The Tuning Link software will make or suggest alterations to the mapping to reach the target AFR.

When the changes are made to the maps, then another pull is made and more changes are suggested. This is repeated until the software no longer suggests changes, and the AFR is at the target ratio at all rpm. Then the same thing is done for each throttle position.

This gets you close.

From here it is now time to try adding a bit of timing advance (for timing info, see post #3 in this thread - http://www.thespeedtriple.com/Forums/index.php?topic=463.0 ).

Then it is time to try bracketing the AFR by adding a touch more and/or a touch less fuel throughout the range and seeing if the power or torque improve or degrade at each rpm point. In the places where power improves, the mapping stays as it is. In the places where it degrades, the mapping is returned to where it was on the previous pull. This is repeated until power/torque is optimized at all rpm points and throttle positions.

Lots of work is required to optimize the tuning, and if performance parts are changed, then you need to start over.  ;) Needless to say, many dyno operators do not go this far with their tuning.
 
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