[BillT]

I found this info while researching oil. :horse:
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

And this one.
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html

This stuff was so engaging, I thought Devi wrote it ;D

 

[BillT]

Devi,

Am I right in assuming that refined oils are primarily distilled, filtered and 'cracked' from crude, and that synthetic oils are primarily built up, or 'synthesized' from a base stock, usually an ester?

I had been told that synthetics are more stable than refined oils because the range of compounds that make up the oil can be more precisely controlled. More consistent chemical makeup means more predictable wear, temperature, viscosity, and lubricating properties.

Also, would you agree with the author that 'energy conserving' oils should not be used in wet clutch machines?

 

[BillT]

As long as we're getting technical, the only drawback I've read in PAO (Polyalphaolefins)-based oil is the resistance to mix with some additives. Companies like Exxon-Mobil have developed synthetics using both PAO and di-ester bases to develop a synthetic that combines the best of both types - extended drain-down characteristics of PAO and mixability of esters. ;D

 

[BillT]

The way I read their site, Mobil 1 15W-50 is pretty much identical to their 4T 15W-50 Racing oil.

They state that, generally, there are two differences between car oil and motorcycle oil. Car oils have friction modifiers (higher levels are usually designated by 'energy conserving' on the API label) and do not have high levels of ZDDP (a zinc/phosphorous compound that is a vital anti-wear agent).

Their auto 15W-50 has low levels of friction modifiers (not generally added to high-vis oils) and high levels of ZDDP:

Mobil 1 15W-50 is also recommended for older valve train designs that may benefit from a higher level of anti-wear normally not required for newer generation vehicles.

I've been using this oil in Speedy since I got it, and have changed the oil every 6000 miles. I had the valve cover off to check valve clearance at 24K, and it looks brand new inside.

 

[BillT]

You know what I don't understand about oil? Everyone seems to ignore the factory recomendations of oil weight. Go to any bike site and it seems everyone admits to using a different weight than what's recommended in their owners manuals.
If a bike is supposed to take 10W40, it seems to me using 15W50 is a bad idea, right? To further confuse things, the oil itself is sold "Odd". The Mobil 1 I saw that was 10W40 was for high mileage vehicles. WTF? ??? The standard Mobil 1 was 15W50 (I think) so a "Responsible" buyer has to make a decision without much info.
I think engineers take oil weight in to consideration when they design engines. It just seems like a critical thing to ignore. And if ignoring the weight is no big deal (As seems to be the case as everyone's engines seem to be fine and dandy), why have weights in the first place?!

Mobil recommends Mobil1 10-40 for higher mileage vehicles simply because most new vehicles now use 5W-30, 5W-20 or 0W-20. As motors wear, using a higher viscosity oil keeps oil pressure up, so going to a higher viscosity oil is common practice with engines over, say, 75,000 miles.
15W-50 is their 'racing' oil - though they don't really mention it on their site.

I use 15W-50 because my bike lives in the tropics. A cold day is 50 (10C), and I rode 180 miles today in 90+ weather (32+C).

 

[BillT]

No :eboy:

 

[BillT]

You should have a spare handy just in case.

Not a hardware store item, but a NAPA item.

I think I got a pack of copper washers at Discount Auto in the Motormite/Help! section.

 

[BillT]

Cyclecyborg,
Windage.

The oil will get whipped up by the crankshaft and thrown all over the crankcase and gears. It can actually increase crankcase pressure enough to push foamy oil into the airbox.

FWIW, I tend to fill to the low mark on the dipstick.

Many years ago I worked in a shop that specialized in classic Mustang and Ford musclecar restorations. The trick setup was to bolt up the oil pan, pump and windage tray from a Boss 302 to other Windsor blocks (260-351W). The Boss 302 used a high-volume oil pump - pumped about 20% more oil than the standard pump. Boss 302 also used an oil pan with baffles welded in - these baffles limited the amount of sloshing around the oil could do, and tended to funnel the oil back to the pump. Thirdly, the Boss engine used a windage tray. Four of the main bearing bolts were replaced with special bolts that had an additional thread on top of the head. This allowed these bolts to perform double-duty - they would hold the main bearings, and allow the windage tray to be bolted up just under the crank. This tray kept the oil from being whipped up by the throws of the crank. These three things allowed the sump to carry 6 quarts of oil instead of the standard five, with no difference in outside appearance.
The previous hot setup was to bolt up the Shelby aluminum 'T' pan, which added a quart of capacity by flaring out the pan about three inches on each side of the deepest part of the sump. The advantage of the T-pan was the added capacity and cooling ability of the finned pan. The disadvantage of the aluminum pan was the ease of breaking it. The Boss pan, being steel, would dent rather than crack if hit by a rock or track debris.

 

[BillT]

Just got oil changed at the triumph dealer and they put in BeyRay EXP semi syn 20W-50

I never heard of it before. Is it ok?

As long as they didn't charge you more than $8/quart.
They're supposed to use Mobil1 4T that Mobil badges 'Triumph', but there's nothing wrong with Bel-Ray, except you might want full synthetic if you're going the full 6000 miles between changes.