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:(so folks, um, there's this noise that my bike is making, it's on on acceleration, in every gear, starting at roughly 4,500 rpm continueing up to about 7 or 8.but is the worst between 4 and 6
ya know those party noise makers,, the ones that look liek an altoids box with a pin stickin out of it, and it goes, "clackity clackity clackity clackity,"
anyway, i got my licence back last monday, the bike had been sitting about a month and a half, with weekly start and run for 15 mins to make sure i still had a motorcycle and not a lawn ornament. so monday i checked oil, lines, coolant, everything was in order, so i went back to the bike life, commuting and what not, definatly not living up to my rep, playing extra cool as i am now convinced there is a cop at every turn.... but then on thurs/fri, i start noticing a sound like i described, so i checked oil again,, ok level, but dirty, so i go to the dealer on sat and make an appointment to do an oil change and general back to season look over thinking maybe it's just somethin that will go away with some fresh juice,, and then go out riding with a friend,,, i forgot what riding was,,,, now any time that i'm on it above 4,500 it makes that noise, i went back to the dealer later in the day and tell them about it, they're goin to look at it on thursday. i'm really worried, some of you know that this is already my second engine,,,and they know how i [used to] ride.
anybody got any ideas..

a harley mechanic i know asked me if i do alot of engine braking, he said that excessive engine braking can cause the bolts that hold the bottom c-piece of the connecting rod to the crank shaft can be stretched due to negative pressure,"which their really really not supposed to be under." and ,"especially if i broke the engine in well and have well seated rings" and even loosen enough to throw a bearing and rod.... which coincidentally is what happened to my last engine... and yes, i do engine break, sometimes pretty hard,(you know that bub bub bbu gargle sound, i love it. i guess i never thought that was bad, he said i shouldn't use engine brake unless breaking in a motor, or emergency, and that maybe i was getting some play in there causeing piston slap........this sounds about right... but the only thing is that it just started, and i've been really really chill since i got the license back, nothing like i used to ride.

any body else got any idea's that don't lead to engine teardown? or does this guys assessment sound about right?
i'm going to give it to the dealer and see what happens, but my stomach is churning with what might be wrong, and the month or two of not having a bike, agian.....
 

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It could be SO many things. It is damn hard to diagnose a sound over the internet, so I tend to tell everyone the same thing (especially if it is under warranty)... Take it to your dealer ASAP.
 

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jrussell6 said:
a harley mechanic i know asked me if i do alot of engine braking, he said that excessive engine braking can cause the bolts that hold the bottom c-piece of the connecting rod to the crank shaft can be stretched due to negative pressure,"which their really really not supposed to be under." and ,"especially if i broke the engine in well and have well seated rings" and even loosen enough to throw a bearing and rod.... which coincidentally is what happened to my last engine... and yes, i do engine break, sometimes pretty hard,(you know that bub bub bbu gargle sound, i love it. i guess i never thought that was bad, he said i shouldn't use engine brake unless breaking in a motor, or emergency, and that maybe i was getting some play in there causeing piston slap........this sounds about right... but the only thing is that it just started, and i've been really really chill since i got the license back, nothing like i used to ride.
To quote the Magliazzi Brothers:

BOOOOOGUS!

Typical Harley type with 60 year old technology opinions. Pure bullshit.
 

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That was a long post Jruss, and I didn't make it all the way through, however, after the your first sentence I would oil the chain before doing anything else. If that doesn't fix it I'd take it to your dealer, which should be Manayunk Triumph. Just guessing on the dealer though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks guys, i've got a recording of the sound, and i'm workin on posting it, but my dealer is a great group of guys and i'm sure they'll do me right, i was just speckulating on possible causes,, hopefully it is the chain, um,, just outta question, i think i remember hearing that wd-40 is a no no for the chain, but it''s all i got around the house, go or no go, anyway, thanx
 

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wd-40....a no go for chains....well ...only on a rag to help clean a chain....dont spray it on the chain....it could and most likely will eat away the x ring seals in the chain....clean it ...then buy a 5 dollar can of motorcycle cain lube/wax....and keep her lubed ;D
 
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Ditto, chain wax ONLY.

Engine braking bad - a load of bollocks :jerkit: The last thing I would be doing is asking a Harley mac about a speed triple it's like asking my mother to comment on the engine performance of a space shuttle :gtfo: :horse:
 

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I love the overrun on most motorcycle motors, sounds loveerrrllyy.

Only potential problems I've heard of are to do with burning out valves [exhaust I think].

Cast iron big ends on 1500cc+ Vtwins might take a hammering, but I can't see it being a problem on a sweet balanced triple.

AA
 

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i'm almost certain that wd-40 won't hurt the o-rings on your chain. it's all i've ever used (and all i ever will use) on my klr.

also, i really don't think your engine could generate enough vacuum to stretch a bolt rated for probably 210,000+psi... just a guess... i would think the upward momentum of the piston and rod as it passes tdc at 9250rpm would be a BIT more pressure than a little bit of vacuum... :)

hit that harley mechanic for me.
 

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Another name for WD40 is penetrating oil. I don't think it does any harm to the O rings but there is a very real danger that it could get past the o rings and dilute the lubricant within. With so many chain lubes on the market why would you use something that was designed for a completely different purpose as a lubricant.
 

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The only way engine braking can stretch a rod bolt is if you seriously over rev the engine. The g forces from slowing and stopping then pulling the piston and rod down go up with the square of engine RPM so if you drop it into 1st at 80 MPH you are going to do some damage. Probably float some valves too. Vacuum is a tiny force by comparison. As long as you stay under red line on down shifts no damage will occur.
 

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a harley mechanic i know asked me if i do alot of engine braking, he said that excessive engine braking can cause the bolts that hold the bottom c-piece of the connecting rod to the crank shaft can be stretched due to negative pressure,"which their really really not supposed to be under." and ,"especially if i broke the engine in well and have well seated rings" and even loosen enough to throw a bearing and rod

Unfortunately, this kind of bad information is common. Old-wives-tales that get spun into common thinking by simple repetition.

In many cases, the rod and rod bolt are so over designed in factory form, they will handle considerably more power and abuse than a stock engine will ever see. It is RPM that is the enemy. A wise man once said "RPM stands for Ruins People's Motors".
 

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"i'm almost certain that wd-40 won't hurt the o-rings on your chain. it's all i've ever used (and all i ever will use) on my klr."

+1 Wd works like a charm on dirt bike chains. Anytype of waxy won't fly off residue will attract dirt on a dirt bike. As far as a street bike is concerned a won't fly off goo would seem the way to go since dirt is not a factor and you don't want it all over your shock and pipes. If all you have is wd, it won't hurt your chain even if it is an oring chain.
 

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Look at the top of the swingarm, the wear pad that the chain touches when the rear suspension is topped out. I bet whats happening is that the chain slacks (on the top side of the swingarm) at the same time that the bike pitches forward, unloading the rear suspension. This allows the chain to contact the wear pad. Tighten the chain a little and see if it goes away.

*EDIT* I just realized that your noise is happening during acceleration, not slowing. Sorry.
 
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